LED Tail Lights 99
02-07-2010, 07:52 PM
#23
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I would love to give you pics, however the first set got lost in shipping so they sent out another set and the tracking info has had no update in over a week. I am starting to think this does not look good. F'N internet.
02-18-2010, 01:00 AM
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I received the taillights today and they sent the wrong ones, I received the same ones as 96743runner, they are nice but I wanted more of a factory look. Hopefully customer service will be good and they will make this situation right.
02-18-2010, 07:54 PM
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If so I'm thinking that they dont have such a product. Why hqas nobody bought them yet? I bought mine back in november, returned those ones you had got right away and still to this day still nothing! If that is the case I'm filing a claim.
02-19-2010, 08:51 AM
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I went with neondials, got clear blinkers, clear corners and OEM-look LED tails for under $150 shipped. Not affiliated, just wanted to share my input from my experience with them. I think some other members here or on t4r had a problem or two with them (one of the clear corners didn't "fit" for him, although they have just a bit of a different shape than OEM, but they still fit snugly and look OEM), but they worked great for me. The stamping on the tail lights on mine say DEPO, which I think are legitimate after market parts. No LED's have gone out and they look great still after about oh 3 or 4 months.
02-22-2010, 08:04 PM
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I went with neondials, got clear blinkers, clear corners and OEM-look LED tails for under $150 shipped. Not affiliated, just wanted to share my input from my experience with them. I think some other members here or on t4r had a problem or two with them (one of the clear corners didn't "fit" for him, although they have just a bit of a different shape than OEM, but they still fit snugly and look OEM), but they worked great for me. The stamping on the tail lights on mine say DEPO, which I think are legitimate after market parts. No LED's have gone out and they look great still after about oh 3 or 4 months.
A little off topic, but I got my clear corners the other day from a guy on ebay and they didn't fit too well either. It took me around 15 minutes trying to wiggle and shake the damn thing to fit. But they do look really, really nice. Don't know what brand they were though, since it had no manufacturer name.
02-22-2010, 08:07 PM
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That's too bad! Yeah these smoked LED tails look great, but only on certain colors, IMHO. But yeah, ebay and other internet sellers probably have what you want.
02-22-2010, 09:36 PM
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Only adding 6ohms? I dont know the exact specs on the system... but LED's have a somewhat linear light output once the threshold voltage has been reached... It might solve the ABS light issue, but after reading the posts in the other linked forum that they were reaching 300+ degrees, I would suggest using some larger valued resistors....
I'd be curious to know the impedance of the LED panel
*Also, as a side note - with a higher current, the LED's are more likely to fail...
I'd be curious to know the impedance of the LED panel
*Also, as a side note - with a higher current, the LED's are more likely to fail...
Last edited by rideexileex; 02-22-2010 at 09:40 PM.
02-23-2010, 10:49 AM
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Only adding 6ohms? I dont know the exact specs on the system... but LED's have a somewhat linear light output once the threshold voltage has been reached... It might solve the ABS light issue, but after reading the posts in the other linked forum that they were reaching 300+ degrees, I would suggest using some larger valued resistors....
I'd be curious to know the impedance of the LED panel
*Also, as a side note - with a higher current, the LED's are more likely to fail...
I'd be curious to know the impedance of the LED panel
*Also, as a side note - with a higher current, the LED's are more likely to fail...
02-23-2010, 11:39 AM
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W = I^2 x R
From what I read on the other forum, 33 W through 6 ohms is about 2.3A, which is a significant ammount of current for LED's.After looking at some spec sheets online for 'super bright LEDs', the max forward current I found was about 30mA for each LED. Thats a big difference...
02-23-2010, 12:04 PM
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this is all assuming that I need resistors in the first place. Through all the documentation & forums i have been reading, I'm noticing a pattern with all 02' 4runners do not need the inline resistors. And yes, i will keep you posted on the bored as soon as i get it. If the weather holds I will be back home this weekend. otherwise in a week and a half.
02-23-2010, 12:22 PM
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How much current is needed so that the ABS light sensor does not come on? A 6 ohm resistor will cause an extra 2 amps to flow when wired in parallel with the brake light. I(current)=V(Voltage)/R(Resistance)
That 50 watt resistor can handle about 4 amps of current at 12 volts. Wattage=V x I
12V x 2A= 24 watts, so that resistor is well within being able to handle 2 amps.
BTW, we have drop in LED replacement bulbs if anybody is interested, www.halolightstore.com
We're also running a special for 20% off with the code HALO20
That 50 watt resistor can handle about 4 amps of current at 12 volts. Wattage=V x I
12V x 2A= 24 watts, so that resistor is well within being able to handle 2 amps.
BTW, we have drop in LED replacement bulbs if anybody is interested, www.halolightstore.com
We're also running a special for 20% off with the code HALO20
02-23-2010, 12:26 PM
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Thats a good question. If someone has that info do they mind posting it? Ill try and do the numbers out tonight. Meanwhile i'm going to order the third brake light now.
02-23-2010, 02:52 PM
#38
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How much current is needed so that the ABS light sensor does not come on? A 6 ohm resistor will cause an extra 2 amps to flow when wired in parallel with the brake light. I(current)=V(Voltage)/R(Resistance)
That 50 watt resistor can handle about 4 amps of current at 12 volts. Wattage=V x I
12V x 2A= 24 watts, so that resistor is well within being able to handle 2 amps.
That 50 watt resistor can handle about 4 amps of current at 12 volts. Wattage=V x I
12V x 2A= 24 watts, so that resistor is well within being able to handle 2 amps.
The original deal about the 6ohm resistor was this, posted in the other forum:
"Finally, the resistors I used are 50 Watt resistors, but in this application, we're only putting about 27 Watts of load through them (33 Watts at max), which is about the same power as the stock brake bulb. 27 Watts doesn't sound like much, but these resistors get VERY HOT!!! With the car running, I applied the brakes for 2 minutes, and then checked the temperature of the resistor I installed. I measured over 325 degrees F at the surface!!! Yikes!!! :bugeye:
That is more than hot enough to melt plastic, so be very careful where you install the resistors. I bolted mine to some of the car"
With a larger valued resistor, you drop the current, which decreases heat output from those resistors. You don't need more current to make LED's brighter. Once they reach their threshold voltages, their light output is pretty consistent, however, putting too much current through them will just decrease their lifespan and you'll be left with no light output at all. It's a much better and safer design to put a larger valued resistor in series to model the original light bulb.
02-23-2010, 03:06 PM
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Hold on:
The original deal about the 6ohm resistor was this, posted in the other forum:
"Finally, the resistors I used are 50 Watt resistors, but in this application, we're only putting about 27 Watts of load through them (33 Watts at max), which is about the same power as the stock brake bulb. 27 Watts doesn't sound like much, but these resistors get VERY HOT!!! With the car running, I applied the brakes for 2 minutes, and then checked the temperature of the resistor I installed. I measured over 325 degrees F at the surface!!! Yikes!!! :bugeye:
That is more than hot enough to melt plastic, so be very careful where you install the resistors. I bolted mine to some of the car"
With a larger valued resistor, you drop the current, which decreases heat output from those resistors. You don't need more current to make LED's brighter. Once they reach their threshold voltages, their light output is pretty consistent, however, putting too much current through them will just decrease their lifespan and you'll be left with no light output at all. It's a much better and safer design to put a larger valued resistor in series to model the original light bulb.
The original deal about the 6ohm resistor was this, posted in the other forum:
"Finally, the resistors I used are 50 Watt resistors, but in this application, we're only putting about 27 Watts of load through them (33 Watts at max), which is about the same power as the stock brake bulb. 27 Watts doesn't sound like much, but these resistors get VERY HOT!!! With the car running, I applied the brakes for 2 minutes, and then checked the temperature of the resistor I installed. I measured over 325 degrees F at the surface!!! Yikes!!! :bugeye:
That is more than hot enough to melt plastic, so be very careful where you install the resistors. I bolted mine to some of the car"
With a larger valued resistor, you drop the current, which decreases heat output from those resistors. You don't need more current to make LED's brighter. Once they reach their threshold voltages, their light output is pretty consistent, however, putting too much current through them will just decrease their lifespan and you'll be left with no light output at all. It's a much better and safer design to put a larger valued resistor in series to model the original light bulb.
Are we talking about series or parallel here? Because if we're talking about placing a resistor in series it really depends on the LED that you are using. If the LED you are using is rated for 12V, it either already has a series resistor, or it is using multiple LEDs in series to create a voltage drop that is sufficient for each LED to operate without burning up. Or a combination of the two.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that if it's rated for 12V, you should not need a series resistor. If you use too large of a value of resistor in series with the LED you will drop the voltage that the LED sees and the LED will pull less current, becoming dimmer.
If it is in parallel however you can model the amperage that the old light bulb pulled by selecting the correct ohm rating, and in this case, not tripping the ABS light.
