Leaky front diff...can I get by?
#1
Leaky front diff...can I get by?
So, I noticed this the last time I changed my front diff fluid, about a couple months ago. Very small leak coming out of where the half shaft enters the front diff on drivers side. I know it's the seal in there that is leaking. I measured the amount of fluid that I got from it when I drained it, and I think it was about 0.1 qt below the "recommended" amount. I ran it all last winter not knowing about the leak. Nothing odd, truck rand fine in 4wd.
Here's my question, just took another look at it today while I was changing my drums and shoes (and fixing a frozen parking brake bellcrank while I was at it), and the leak is obviously still there. It looks the same as it did 2 months ago before I changed my fluid. Can I get by driving it again this winter like it is? My inclination would tell me it's fine because I have driven with it like that for who knows how long and it only seems to have lost 0.1 qts, but I want to be sure. I use my truck everyday for work so it's needed during the week, meaning no down time leaving it overnight if I dive into and and either don't finish the job or something else is up.
Thanks in advance
Here's my question, just took another look at it today while I was changing my drums and shoes (and fixing a frozen parking brake bellcrank while I was at it), and the leak is obviously still there. It looks the same as it did 2 months ago before I changed my fluid. Can I get by driving it again this winter like it is? My inclination would tell me it's fine because I have driven with it like that for who knows how long and it only seems to have lost 0.1 qts, but I want to be sure. I use my truck everyday for work so it's needed during the week, meaning no down time leaving it overnight if I dive into and and either don't finish the job or something else is up.
Thanks in advance
#3
Well it would be the first time that I would have changed this out so I have to allot more time than 50 minutes. It was my first time doing drums and shoes today. The first one took me a lot longer than the second. And from what I have read from other threads on taking the cv's out either they are easy or a pain. Getting to the half shaft also. Getting through rusted nuts on studs, etc. Plus it's a matter of investing in some tools that I don't have right now that I can't afford (crowbar, hand sledge...etc). This is why I ask the question. Part plus new fluids, plus tools needed adds up. I may be able to do it mid winter, but my question is if I can get by for a bit until funding is available, due to being out of work for a month and just recently picking up a job. Or is there going to be a catastrophic failure? Like I said before it seems I will be able to get by, but I'm asking those who have had this issue.
Last edited by KrashDH; 10-03-2009 at 06:41 PM.
#4
yeah uh i have the same leak and there is no way in hell that would take 50 minutes, i would have it done now. but yea ive ran mine with the leak for almost a year now i think, so i dont see why you couldnt. and even if it does get low you can just put more fluid in.
#6
If it is a slow leak you should be fine. You just don't let it run too low. I don't know if your axles turn all the time or not but it would be good to avoid dirt roads and deep water that could get in there.
#7
yeah uh i have the same leak and there is no way in hell that would take 50 minutes, i would have it done now. but yea ive ran mine with the leak for almost a year now i think, so i dont see why you couldnt. and even if it does get low you can just put more fluid in.
Tools socket wrench and small pry bar jack jack stands.
I have never had to replace fluid because this side is jacked up.
you jack the truck up support with stand take the wheel off take out the three bolts on the bottom a-frame use a pry bar to pry the cv out at both ends, Take the seal out with the same pry bar grease the outside of the seal use a large socket to hammer the seal back in making sure not to drive too far put the axle shaft back in the three bolts back in the wheel on and let her down.
maybe I am a little more used to such a project but it only took me about an hour for the actual work on my rear axle bearing and seal. It took longer for the guys at the shop to press the seal and bearings off and on than to pull the axle and put new seal and axle in.
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#9
Hah, 50 minutes? wow, It takes a lot longer than that, unless maybe you have a stocked shop, and have done it a few times, and even then...
Really when It boils down to it, it is only 4 bolts, (10 if you count the lug nuts) then you pry out the CV, and pry out the seal, and hammer a new one home. (easier said than done, however)
If you carefully monitor the fluid you have in your diff, you would be fine, you just need to keep replacing what leaks out. After about the 3rd refill though, you are starting to waste more time refilling than it would have taken to replace it in the first place.
(I had the same leak, and had to do the same thing)
Really when It boils down to it, it is only 4 bolts, (10 if you count the lug nuts) then you pry out the CV, and pry out the seal, and hammer a new one home. (easier said than done, however)
If you carefully monitor the fluid you have in your diff, you would be fine, you just need to keep replacing what leaks out. After about the 3rd refill though, you are starting to waste more time refilling than it would have taken to replace it in the first place.
(I had the same leak, and had to do the same thing)
#10
What is that seal called? I couldn't find a number or name for it in my service manual and when I asked the parts guy at Auto zone he asks me 4wd or 2wd!!!! This is after another asked if my CV's were for a 4wd or 2wd truck!!!! I was at a loss for words! Thanks.
#12
Just fix it. I would think 50 min is a good estimate of time IF you have changed a CV axle before (takes 20-30 min once you have done them). Maybe another 5-10 min for the seal.
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