aviator

Thats the first question I have... you could also be getting a little blow by around the cylinder rings especially if you've used additives in the past some of them don't react well with the inards of the 3.0... I would start with a pcv valve change and go from there so far as the timing belt question goes you should consider changing it NOW if you have'nt already done so they need to be changed every 120K or so as they stretch ... the 3.0 is an "interference" type engine and will commit mechanical suicide if you don't... this could also be a source for your lost oil mystery... while they have the engine apart (if it is not a dealer) consider having the cam shaft changed to the one out of a camry ( i think) you will get better performance and mileage ( it is going to be one of my next mods) ... so far as oil type goes... mobil ! 5W30 if you live in a place that sees winter M1 10W30 if you don't...and NO ADDITIVES OK?... Cheers Aviator
P.S. Stay away from the Tacoma our made in Japan Hilux's are superior trucks in all respect ( no offence taco guys thats just MHO )
P.P.S. Mobil 1 Full Synthetic is what you want.

Toyo22R-E

The 3VZ engine is NOT an interference engine, and the camshafts out of the V6 Camry will NOT work in the truck 3VZ engine either. First off, the Camry version is 24 valve, as the Truck engine has only 12. Do change the Timing Belt if you haven't done so already. Pay attention to the condition of the water pump while you (or whoever does it) is in there. Cheers.

KING

Head gaskets recall? Done.

Additives? No (not unless the previous owner added some).

Timing chain? Yes, at 60K (currently, odometer reads 103,200).

MOBIL? Why MOBIL? I heard that stuff is no good, at least not anymore. I heard VALVOLINE was the stuff to go with.

What does the water pump have anything to do with the oil?

And how can I pay close attention to the water pump?

You're almost asking me to count the number of rotations my tires rotate while I'm doing 90 on the freeway.

aviator

there is an engineyou can swap the cam shafts out of to get better performance but i can't remember it now... or maybe it was a full head exchange... but i digress... you should check the water pump when you change your timing belt because it wears out too and to change it you have to pull the front of the engine off with the timing belt which means a new belt anyways so why not save the dough ( or is that Du-oh!) and do them both at the same time... so far as the Mobil 1 issue goes I have'nt heard anything bad about it yet... but then again everyone has a fav. product that they swear by... Aviator

KING

UPPIN'............

I'm going to buy the PCV valve in a minute, what is the part number of this thing and how much is it?

Can anyone also answer my question I had up at the top:

RTdawgs

a can of TB cleaner from your local parts store or wal-mart.

PirateFins

To clean the TB just get some sensor safe carb / tB cleaner.

As far as your oil loss problem. Might I suggest you give the valve cover gaskets a good look over. I have the 22RE (different than your's of course) that I was loosing oil out of quite similar to what you are describing. I couldn't find any oil on the ground and was not blowing any smoke out of the pipe.
It turned out to be the valve cover gasket was leaking towards the back of the motor. The oil was comming out and running down onto the exhaust manifold and burning off. It was not flowing out but leaking just enough to loose 1 qt every 1000 mi. It got very fustrating trying to find it. I finally found it when I took off the exhaust manifold heat shield when I was replacing the manifold.
Give it a look.

KING

WOW...........

LOL... My brain just hurts thinking of what it can be..........

Thanks for the help and suggestion, guys!