So anyone clicking on this is probably wondering "why the hell would you install a diff drop without the lift installed"... my answer, The lift is happening this weekend, and i'd like to get some small tedious stuff out of the way before it comes time to do the whole shebang.

I was wondering if I can do the diff drop pre lift, and if it would have any adverse effects on my front suspension or CV arms if i drove on it until saturday.

It will also give me a chance to modify my skid plate so it will fit back on once it is finished (I don't need the skid plate to drive to work and back )

Oh, and don't worry, there will be pics after this weekend (hopefully wheeling pics too!)

 

Yes you can put the diff drop on before the lift. We have done that once or twice.

No big deal.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

I have a question I might beable to throw on this thread. Why only a 1" diff drop. Whats stopping anyone from going 1.5 or 2"?

 

ok, from what i've read, a about a 1.5 inch lift will cause the angles on the CV arm to be within acceptable range, But most people are doing is 2.5 inches, which causes severe CV angles. The 1" diff drop brings the angle down to the 1.5" range without any severe modifications. I'm guessing it is just unnecessary to do a 2" diff drop. If you needed a 2" diff drop, you would probably have to redo your front suspension with a long travel setup.

 

For what its worth, the diff drop is quite easy and doesn't eat up very much time. I wouldn't rist the CV boots tearing until I had the lift on. Just my 2 cents. BTW - you'll love the look post lift.

 

yeah.. i think you are on the right track, to install the diff drop (15-20 min max after skids off) you just modify the front mounting points, I am assuming that there are also rear mounting points, which this is being pivoted down about. Installing a large spacer (greater than 1-1.5") would place more stress on this rear mount and also start affecting your angles between the front diff and transfer case adversely...

So pretty much if you are going too far, you need a whole bracket lift up front, or long travel, or something, like an SAS really. a huge amount of lift jacks up the whole suspension anyway, so putting huge springs or spacers in (greater than 3") will just mess up your whole suspension cycle and geometry, its designed for the arms to be somewhat parallel at normal riding, and the farther lifted, the more of an angle is placed on them on normal driving, greatly affecting driving and handling characteristics.

 

It is just two bolts, but they take like 166 ft.lbs. of torque

 

Steve and i spoke over email a while back and he said that there are some vacuum lines that are too close to the front diff to drop it more than 1.5" max, thats why most venders sell only 1" diff drops.

 

Thanks for all the info. I figured there must have been some reason not to.

 

Reason why you cant go any further in the diff drop is because there is a third bolt on the rear of the diff which will be stressed out. (Large allen head bolt).

I had used some large washers to achieve a little bit more of a diff drop, but, it didn't do enough and was actually moving the diff in a direction I did not like.

 

Thanks SC4runner. You just talked me out of adding a cuple more washers to the diff drop.

 

Yeah, it was moving the half shafts back and down. Weird angle to them actually.

 

Soup - So you got my suspension parts already?

 

Yeah they arrived the yesterday (16th). I've got OME 891/N86 from Bighead for the rear, front diff drop from steve, and the front setup (from you)... mmmm I love YT . On saturday if all goes well, the 'runner will be lifted... look out for pics soon.

 

Nice! I was worried about the extended studs getting bent so I asked them to do the uber-nice packing job. Swapping out the front is a no-brainer now that you don't have to compress those coils!

 

For sure, they were packed GOOD... like really good , no bending... but the coilovers were hard to find in the packing peanuts, lol (big box).

And i'm exited to not have to compress the spring and build the strut... swaping should be really easy!

 

for the money I paid, they BETTER have arrived in the same condition I sent them in

I can only imagine the cleanup work after you pulled the coilovers out and the packing peanuts went everywhere.....