psst... My book claimed you should use the same headbolts in the exact location you took them from. I did so and everything has been great. I am about 10,000 miles into the engine and have ran the crap out of it getting myself out of a mudpit. So far so good.

 

Dry run...


The dent was already there:


At least the door shuts.


Still prepping the garage but alot better than last night, and I haven't even thrown anything away yet.

-=Morphine=-

 

hey morph- take some pic's of the teardown & post 'em if you can...
i'm sure i'm not the only one who would be interested in seeing it done! i wish you good luck!

 

Morph,

I wish you the best of luck. I just finished this job in nov 04 on a Japanese
4 Runner. Luck for me, I had another broke one sitting handy. The heads were not reusable due to warpage, the mach shop said they had never seen such bad heads and they would not even attempt to rework/repair them. before that just cleaning them up to get them to the shop noticed that the freeze plugs on the heads rusted through to the thinkness of tin foil even poked a scraper though. Check the coolant tube that runs in the valley between the heads and the knock sensor, less the heads you would have to pull every thing else off to check these items later. A good pace should have the heads off in about 8 hours took me 12 with some smoke and soda breaks.

DRAGON

 

Trunner Your FSM syas to re-use the head bolts and put them back in exactly the same hole? And not to replace them? (must have skipped that paragraph in mine)Ad although there is absolutely nothing wrong w/ doin that, but seeings that we're taking everything apart and replacing all the gaskets, why not go ahead and replace the head bolts as well? Sure he could save a little of money, but there is that slight chance that somehow some bolts got mixed up and because of being torque-streched for years don't quite torque to spec or hold the torque and blows a HG? He'd be pissed to high heaven. So would you or I or anybody. Always remember the "slight chance" factor and the fact that these ARE Toyota's.....
Best to replace the bolts to eliminate that slight chance factor, and anyways if you ask a professional wrench about using the old bolts or replacing them w/ new, I guarentee 9 outta 10 will say to replace 'em...if they can be replaced.

 

That is what I figured too...

HOWEVER, as explained to me by an experienced mechanic, the bolts are made of much stronger steel then the block itself. If there was any stretching that occurred it happened in the block more so then on the bolts. Now if you use the same bolts in the same locations the stretch patterns should seat perfectly, but if you use a brand spanken new bolt in a block with threads that have been stretched a bit, you will not get as tight a fit. Basically unless you re-tap your block, then the original bolts in the original locations are your safest bet.

This kinda turned the table on where the slight chance sat for me.

 

Hahahahaha, I just talked to friend who heads Hamer Toyota's "Yellow Team" out here in San Fernando, and he started laughing. I read him both our posts and he says that we are both correct in our assumptions. Except for the bolts being stronger than the block. He was curious how a bolt was stronger than a cast block? But owell he says we're right (you and I) and to stut up about it and or me to call Morph and get my a$$ down there to work!!!LOL

Morph, things got hairy here at my place, call ya tonight if it's cool.
T

 

Drkgpyspy, call if you want. The work is on a 2 day hold as of right now. I setting up a "loaner" vehicle with a buddy but I want to make sure it's here and at my disposal (sp?) before I tear apart my ride.

Secondly - In my searching for a "good" (yes I'll settle right now for only a good machine shop to do the valve work and heads as their are no compotent shops in my local area) My bro-in-laws buddy knows a Hi-Pro shop that may be able to do a full engine rebuild at about the same cost as my top end only work.

Currently waiting to hear back from him regarding what this shop can do and for how much $$$$ (hopefully I can take some of those off ) My other buddy dave from my "HVAC certified heating photo" is now a proud dad again with a new baby girl. He was loaning me some tools and air compressor to do the job. I really don't want to be a bother right now and interrupt his time with the new addition asking for them.

If all plans go through I'll either be taking my truck down for a full rebuild on Monday or I'll know this isn't happening and I can get the gasket set and new valves ordered with everything else I need. By the way, could some post a prelim of the items and sizes of what I'll need (Sorry I'm such a noob).

I want to oversize the valves: to what size?
Valve job - does this mean "honing" the head?
Should I port and polish now while this is being done?
full gasket set or engine rebuild kit?
Where should I order these from? http://www.partsdinosaur.com/ seemed good and heard them mentioned in one other post.
all new vaccum hoses and other lines/hoses ( she was used and in this shape when I bought here)
oil pump? Timing belt?

I hope you all understand and realize I need help.

Thanks
-=Morphine=-

 

I bought my timing belt kit which included idlers, water pump, belt and all associated gaskets from partsdinosaur on one of his ebay auctions. I couldnt be happier!!!

DEFINATELY take pictures. Im probably going to have to pull my 3.slow and do a FULL rebuild soon....yikes.

 

The shop wont cut a deal on the full rebuild but they will cut me a deal on the machine work for the heads. ABout 100-150 less than everyone else, only problem is they have never machined the heads for the 3vze - primarly Honda hi performance work.

Question -- Does this even matte? Isn't machining machining?

Second -- Went to the stealership and asked the service manager who does their machine work on their heads. Straight up gave me the shops name, phone # and even told me what they pay and then charge the customer (277 and charge us 480) (Customers in green if you didn't know). Next thing I know the Service Manager is on thephone with the shop and tells them "his buddy" needs some work done and can they guarantee the same price and work for him (that means me). He turns and says "They'll offer it to me at the same cost as them it will only take a few extra days of shop time over their standard customers turn around". SWEET!!!!
This is the same shop the my local dealer and the next city over uses for their 3.0 HG recall rebuilds and all of the machine work. Tons of expiernce on the 3vze engine and heads.

Question -- Do I pay for the expeirence??? I think I do but can someone back me up?

The garage is clean, air compressor and tools/attachments on their way. Timing gun, and a "Just in case" engine stand on loaner from another buddy are coming up on tuesday. Now i need to order the gasket kit.

Final question -- Should I get the master rebuild kit from Engnbldr off ebay Here or should I order multiple kits from Partsdinosaur??

Sorry for the long posts.
-=Morphine=-

PS I know some of the tools are unneeded, but rather have them and not need them then need them and not have them.

 

Morph,

I have not seen it listed here...one thing that I know I had to go out and get was a 12 point 12mm 1/2 drive socket for the head bolts. The head bolts for the Japan model are the same as the U.S. model, according to the Toyota parts catalog. Next is to protect your floor just a bit and to add to the comfort of doing the work you might want to go and find and old 6x6 scrap of carpet that some one is trying to dispose of. Right now before you even start go out and spray down the all the exhust bolts with some wd40 or other penetrating oil it might also help to get some degreaser and give the engine a good bath before you begin. No matter how careful you are your going to damage or break a hose clamp or two and maybe even the hose be ready to replace them on reassembly. This really holds true with the plastic locking tabs on engine wiring harness, When ever I do that I go to the junk yard and cut off one that will work and then disassemble and put it on or even just splice it in. I have not been able to find a source for getting new ones. If any one out there knows of a sources for these then SAHRE it there is a huge market over here in Japan for that; cars have been sent to scrape for just those breaking.

Last thought...as long as you are in this far you might want to rebuild the starter while you are there.....this will be the easist access you will ever have to get at it.....

Dragon

 

Thanks for the advice dragon564, wd40 is on hand as well as some card board (to protect the garage floor and some carpet).

I just got back from getting the loaner vehicle and now I'm off to finalize the garage space. This Monday ordering the parts and pulling the truck in to "My Service Bay" for the dismantling. Wish me luck and Drkgypsy call me if you'd like. I'd appreciate the help. I'll do my best to take pics and document the steps for the photos and any unusual things I (we) encounter.

Off to the trenches.

-=Morphine=-

 

Don't think I abandoned ya Morphine been in the hospital for my asthma. I'll give ya a ring somtime in the morning....Now that I'm home I'm off to bed to get some sleep

 

Take your time their drkgypsy. I hope you're doing better. Yeah give me a call in the morning and we can formulate a game plan.

-=Morphine=-