My EGR is still on the enigine. I just pulled the vacuum line and plugged it. Then installed the resistor.

I leave mine on the ngine so I can hook it up when I go for a smog check every other year.

 

Akita,

do you have more info on this resistor? Where to get it? How to install it?
Can I just add it to the wiring and leave the vacum lines hooked up?

Thanks for any info.

 

Okay....sounds good! Thanks for the replies. Now, where can I get the resistor? And how can I hook it in without the original wiring harnesses. All I have left is a clipped off wire taped at the end!
Oops! Sorry about the HGs!

 

I purchased the resistor at Radio Shack. It comes in pack of 5 for a couple of bucks. And if the plug has been cut off you should have two wires there. I would put the resistor across them to complete the circuit.

 

can I just plug the resistor into existing plug?

 

Thanks AkitaDog,
If you please....what exactly do I ask for, as in what to call this resistor, when or if I go to RS? Also, it seems I may have the option to just install the actual sensor. But, like I said above the sensor I found is from a '90 4R. Do you know if this will work with a '92 considering the ECU's are different from the two year models?

 

Actually, Yes! That is what I did and just secured it with a piece of black tape.

 

When you go to RS just ask for a 10K ohm 1/4 watt resistor.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

As for the sensor compatibilty I'm not sure on that one. I would think it should be the same.

 

Thanks sooo much for your input!!! It's been months and months since I've been able to get this vehicle to run right since the rebuild was installed. It will be relief to have it again.
Incidentally, what kind of Toy do you have and what mileage do you get with the mod?

 

Also, I just looked at the pic of the resistors and it doesn't look like I even need the harnesses.....just splice directly in. Is that correct? Is this what you were saying earlier?

 

If you click on the yellow link below you will go to my 4 Runner's page.

I disconnected my EGR because it made my acceleration real sluggish and when I cruised at about 35 I could feel the engine surging.

Never noticed a difference in mileage. I do average around 19mpg when it was running. Right now it has blown head gasket.

And you are right about wiring the resistor directly to wires leads. You don't need to put a plug on there if you don't have to. I take it you don't have to smog the truck?

Ltr

 

Thanks so much for answering back.
If you were averaging 19mpg, that's a far cry better than I was. When the 4rnr was running, before the latest rebuild replacement, I was averaging 15-16...under load 13-14. It suuuuucked! And very little power.
It's a long story with this vehicle. The girl that first owned it had to have the original motor rebuilt, and after the job she thought it never ran the same. It would stall sometimes (not much) at intersections and lacked the same power it had before. She never paid attention to the mileage, so I don't what she was getting. But, after some time, she let it go to my wife and me and we thought,"Wow! Nice ride, but mileage and power sucks." My 22re in my 86' pulled loads better, accelerated better, and got better mileage (avg. 18-19mpg). Well, now it all makes sense. The shop never put the damned EGR sensor back on after they rebuilt it! VACUUM LEAK! After 20k+ miles, and in our hands, this rebuild threw the mainbearings. TOAST! So, we got another rebuild put in. BUT! We didn't know there was supposed to be this sensor, so we've not been able to get it to run well at all. Around 13mpg and even less power than when we got it from her with the first rebuild. And, of course, it keeps dying on us. Anyway, sorry if I bored you with that, but I'm just amazed at what are called "certified mechanics" around here. It took someone like me, with no mechanical training, to research and discover this big freakin' vacuum leak in the system.....with a lot of helpful advice, of course! Even still, the EGR valve could be shot or the VSV could be malfunctioning...it doesn't matter. I can't afford to replace them if they are. So, this bypass option with the resistor (thanks so much, again) will be such an easy solution for me.
About this resistor, though. I picked them up today at RS. Either end has hard connecting points that appears as though they would need to be soldered...like on a chip board. How would I connect something like that to two mult-strand wires? I doubt soldering them would hold well. Would wire nuts work, or would that just break the connector points? I apologize if I have to many questions, but I'm at lack of knowledge here.
I looked at your page. Very nice rig! You've obviously spent a lot of time spiffing it up. Good job.
Oh....they did away with inspections a few years ago in Arkansas. Soooo.....

 

The best and most reliable way would be to solder it.
i'm not sure if it will improve your mileage, the sensor that is on the EGR is there only to let the ECU know that is id functioning properly. When you un plug or disable the EGR the ECU knows something is wrong and will turn the 'Check Engine' light on.

The only thing the resistor does it trick the ECU in to thinking that the EGR valve is working properly.


If you do have a vacuum leak it would definately effect the mileage and idling of the engine.

 

Ah! So, soldering would be good. Shows you how much I know! Hehe!
My vacuum leak will be cured by closing the ports of the EGR system. The only leak is in the side of the EGRV....again, where the sensor is supposed to screw in. Therefore, I do believe my mileage should improve...along with power, etc. How could it not....unless I've missed something here? The ECU will be satisfied and no more vac leak! Right?

 

I added this resistor last night. The CEL is off for the first time in over a year. YEA!!!!!!!!

Now I did not disconnect the EGR or plug any lines.

Does that still allow the valve to operate? It just isn't passing info to the computer
right?

 

If the EGR still has the vacuum line connected at the top, then yes, it is most likely still functioning. Try and disconnect this line and plug the end of the hose.

If yours is doing what mine did you will notice a big difference in the way the truck accelerates.

 

Was your EGR not functioning? is that why you plugged the line?
Mine is a new EGR well a year old now.

I will try plugging the line and see what it does then post again.

 

Mine is in functioning condition, it would open and allow the exhuast in to the intake. It just for some reason would effect the way the truck accelerated and cruised at about 35 mph.

 

Quick question....Once the hard lines to and from th EGRV are plugged off, and resistor is installed, what to do with the two vacuum lines running from the valve to the modulator and fuel press. regulator? I assume just plugging those, but I thought I'd ask to be sure.

 

Hmmm....I did it. I disconnected the EGR, blocked off the upper and lower ports, plugged the two vacuum lines in question, and solderd the resistor in. Guess what?! It still runs like crap! I start it up, it won't idle well, then dies.....everytime! On that note....I think I'll go die now.
I've got a couple things to check. I'm thinking the NEW TPS must be bad. I set it within specs, and when I went back to check it tonight the mf'r is well BELOW spec. You can actually watch the needle on the ohm meter bounce all around. No steady or consistant reading. ???? I'll do some reading on that. But, I must go die first. Later!