19MPG with EGR system, 12MPG after removing it and fabricating block off plates. Stuck a 10K Ohm 1/4w resistor in the connector that used to connect to the EGR, bam back to 19MPG. Remember to fake the ECU into thinking it's still there if you remove it! 94 3VZE.

 

Great idea. Are you talking about the temp sensor on the side of the cast metal egr holder?

 

That's interesting, My mileage and performance sucks with the EGr connected.

Throttle response is very sluggish.

Maybe this will turn that stupid "Check Engine" light off?

 

Yeah, with my EGR going bad my CEL was on for some general error like "emissions system failure". Removed EGR.... same error. Plugged in resistor, no CEL after 600 miles (would previously trip after like 2 miles), and back up to 19MPG!

 

My EGR has been off for nearly two years and I've had no problems related to it's removal. Blocked off the valve with a couple of pennies and some lock-tite. Gas mileage has been about the same if not better. I had to go through emmisions testing to renew my registration last month and was worried that it might cause me to fail, but my emmisions turned out better than my previous test in '03!

Ed

 

Why do all of that if you get the same gas milage as before?

 

Slight power increase.

 

Do you really like the idea of exhaust going back into the motor through the intake? They did that for emissions reasons. Are you here to somehow magically keep the air cleaner than it's already 1/2 mile visibility state (well, here in SoCal), or are you here to make more power when you stab the throttle to get an adrenaline rush?

EGR should be like anal sex for most girls, "exit only please".

 

Adrenaline rush from a 3.0?

 

sounds like some of you guys don't know what you're talking about. EGR, if working properly, WILL increase your gas mileage. the reason being, you're dumping less fuel into the cylinders when cruising. that, and the whole being good for the air thing(reduces NOx). the way the valve works is that it kicks on under light load/cruising conditions, so if it's properly working, there should be no difference. it's not like it's on all the time(or it wouldn't be a valve).

the only reason i gutted mine from my truck is that i didn't have a complete emissions system on my donor engine to begin with, and what was left on my 20R wouldn't have worked with it anyway.

 

ive noticed this as well..i was thinking about removing my EGR system but theres no point..its going to hurt your gas milage to matter what.

and with placing that resistor in the sensor your just telling the computer that the egr is working and its goign to lean you out...

 

...and leaning out on an already lean engine with 9.5:1 compression doesn't sound like a good thing to me...

 

Factory motors do not come out of the factory running lean. They tune the ECU to be rich enough so that you can go down to Mexico and run 82 octane Pemex and not blow up your motor. I have no EGR, a leaned out VAFM, and run 87 octane. No pinging. And I will be happy to post my AFR when I get my Megasquirt system up and running.

 

Please explain how the EGR temp sensor and the CEL code 71 EGR temp on California emmision vehicles controls the mixture. I dunno?

 

I'm glad someone knows what they are talking about... The EGR also reduces the temperature by taking up the space where raw fuel/air mixture would be. It also helps to lower spark knocks somehow.

 

the spark knock reduction is due to the reduction in combustion chamber temp.

US trucks aren't set up to run mexican 82 octane gas or whatever. even my '79 owners manual states to not use less than 87 octane fuel, and that's on a 20R with 8.4:1 compression(22R with 9:1 now). the ECU on a 3VZE/22RE has a knock sensor and will retard the timing if the engine starts knocking...

 

Hello all,
I found this thread searching for more info on my own EGR situation ('92 runner/ 3vze), so I'm reviving the discussion a bit. Hopefully! I need to learn more about what I'm doing if I'm going to bypass the EGR system. It seems simple enough to the bypass, and that there shouldn't be any issues regarding creating a leaner condition and therefore a knock...that is according to other members I've talked to at YT and lists elsewhere. Since this thread was started so long ago, I wondered what the results some of you have had within this length of time? Were there any problems? And also, where does one such as myself find this resistor? I haven't had much luck finding one. Plus, I need the main harness (where the EGR temp sensor or the resistor would plug into) seeing as I don't have one. The harness and the sensor itself were removed long ago before I owned the vehicle. So, I have not had the sensor all this time and have not the money to get one even if that is the only problem within my system. I'll have to do some checking around locally for the sensor and/or harness at a junk yard unless someone around here has either cheap.

 

I found a sensor with harnesses from a '90 4runner today. The dealer says the part numbers are different from the '90 to my '92 and therefore the ECU wouldn't read the '90 sensor. Realizing this fellow has no hands-on knowledge...only what his book tells him...would anyone have some idea about this? The part is only $15 at the salv. yard. I'm hoping....

 

I have not had a problem since i did mine. The check engine light used to come on after disconnecting the sensor. Installing the resistor stopped the light from coming on, since the ecu thinks the egr valve is still connected.

Now if only blowing head gaskets were resolved so easily....

 

what if you leave the EGR connected and add the resistor? I just want the light to go off. Is this possible?