If you plan on installing Downy 1.5 coils in 2nd gen, read this.
#1
If you plan on installing Downy 1.5 coils in 2nd gen, read this.
I installed my Downy i.5 inch HD coils last summer and I wanted to share what I have learned from install to driving characteristics. First of all, I did this mod to level out my 4runner since I carry a subwoofer and bike rack all the time but I also did this mod so my suspension would not bottom out with a heavy load. An unexpected advantage of this mod was and increase in suspension travel, but only after replacing the shocks.
First of all, I will go over installation. This forum has a write-up on the install which I used extensively but I learned a trick along the way. It turns out rather than “lifting on one side of the axle and using brute force to push the spring into place,” as stated in the write-up, I found you can use a jack to un-weight the spring and easily install the new ones without the aid of a second person. This made the install a snitch. The spring swap only took about an hour but the break line was very difficult to bleed and took another hour to complete. This is how I did it:
After installing, I noticed a substantial increase in body roll while cornering due to the larger gap between the axle and the rear overload bumpers. This was a bit dangerous. I also noticed my shocks were almost toped out on flat ground. I solved both these problems by installing some Skyjacker Nitrogens that were longer and much more progressive than my Morrow shocks. They cost me $50 each but were well worth it.
Now, 2 months later, I am still overjoyed with the new stance, improved loaded handling, and increased flex. It was well worth the $300 investment.
Check out my runner next to this stock one:
And my new found flex:
First of all, I will go over installation. This forum has a write-up on the install which I used extensively but I learned a trick along the way. It turns out rather than “lifting on one side of the axle and using brute force to push the spring into place,” as stated in the write-up, I found you can use a jack to un-weight the spring and easily install the new ones without the aid of a second person. This made the install a snitch. The spring swap only took about an hour but the break line was very difficult to bleed and took another hour to complete. This is how I did it:
After installing, I noticed a substantial increase in body roll while cornering due to the larger gap between the axle and the rear overload bumpers. This was a bit dangerous. I also noticed my shocks were almost toped out on flat ground. I solved both these problems by installing some Skyjacker Nitrogens that were longer and much more progressive than my Morrow shocks. They cost me $50 each but were well worth it.
Now, 2 months later, I am still overjoyed with the new stance, improved loaded handling, and increased flex. It was well worth the $300 investment.
Check out my runner next to this stock one:
And my new found flex:
#3
Looks sweet guy! So far as the body roll goes what about a heavier sway bar with disconnects? it would reduce the on road trouble and when you go trail running just reach/crawl under and pull the disco pins and you're where you are right now. by the way I love the rims what are they? cheers Aviator
#4
Great way to install new springs. I have another way to do it just as easily.
Disconnect the sway bar end links brake line and panhard bar. This will allow that axle to pretty much swing freely. Jack up the back of the 4Runner up high enough to get the springs out. It might help to take the wheels off. the old springs will slide right out. the new springs will also slide right in. Now put a jack under the axle and jack it back up high enough to connect the end links and panhard bar. Install wheels and lets the 4Runner back down to the ground. Connect brake line and bleed the system.
With small lifts the brakeline will not need to be disconnected. I disconnected mine because I used Cruiser coils and needed a longer line anyway.
Either way, now people have alot more options on spring installs.
Disconnect the sway bar end links brake line and panhard bar. This will allow that axle to pretty much swing freely. Jack up the back of the 4Runner up high enough to get the springs out. It might help to take the wheels off. the old springs will slide right out. the new springs will also slide right in. Now put a jack under the axle and jack it back up high enough to connect the end links and panhard bar. Install wheels and lets the 4Runner back down to the ground. Connect brake line and bleed the system.
With small lifts the brakeline will not need to be disconnected. I disconnected mine because I used Cruiser coils and needed a longer line anyway.
Either way, now people have alot more options on spring installs.
#5
Originally Posted by aviator
Looks sweet guy! So far as the body roll goes what about a heavier sway bar with disconnects? it would reduce the on road trouble and when you go trail running just reach/crawl under and pull the disco pins and you're where you are right now. by the way I love the rims what are they? cheers Aviator
#6
I just support the frame with jack stands, keep the jack under the axle,another under where the d-shaft meet the diff, undo the upper links, sway bar...that's it.
You might try getting poly bushing s for the swaybar links. it'll help a lot.
You might try getting poly bushing s for the swaybar links. it'll help a lot.
#7
Looks very nice. I'm in the process of getting ride of all my chrome right now.
I'm darkening everything, coating it or painting it black.
I especially like the clear/whit rear lights. Where did you purchase them and at what price?
I'm darkening everything, coating it or painting it black.
I especially like the clear/whit rear lights. Where did you purchase them and at what price?
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#8
Originally Posted by 4runner4ever
Looks very nice. I'm in the process of getting ride of all my chrome right now.
I'm darkening everything, coating it or painting it black.
I especially like the clear/whit rear lights. Where did you purchase them and at what price?
I'm darkening everything, coating it or painting it black.
I especially like the clear/whit rear lights. Where did you purchase them and at what price?
#9
I allready bought black front signalcovers and side marker lights. I'm thinking about painting my rear lights black also. Spraying them black is illegal here, but white lights (OEM or aftermarket) are okay!
I like you're gauges also. Too bad they are in miles and not Km.
I like you're gauges also. Too bad they are in miles and not Km.
#10
Looking good...
I have springs on my agenda...but like you, my Runner is more of a DD, so I don't need some crazy lift, just enough to level it out cuz of the ass sag. I haven't 'really' looked at how hard a spring replacement would be, but your pics show that it looks pretty simple. But I was thinking about just using a spring compressor so that I would have to fark around with disconnecting the brake lines (then bleeding, etc). Is this an option?
I have springs on my agenda...but like you, my Runner is more of a DD, so I don't need some crazy lift, just enough to level it out cuz of the ass sag. I haven't 'really' looked at how hard a spring replacement would be, but your pics show that it looks pretty simple. But I was thinking about just using a spring compressor so that I would have to fark around with disconnecting the brake lines (then bleeding, etc). Is this an option?
#11
Originally Posted by GregStevens
Looking good...
I have springs on my agenda...but like you, my Runner is more of a DD, so I don't need some crazy lift, just enough to level it out cuz of the ass sag. I haven't 'really' looked at how hard a spring replacement would be, but your pics show that it looks pretty simple. But I was thinking about just using a spring compressor so that I would have to fark around with disconnecting the brake lines (then bleeding, etc). Is this an option?
I have springs on my agenda...but like you, my Runner is more of a DD, so I don't need some crazy lift, just enough to level it out cuz of the ass sag. I haven't 'really' looked at how hard a spring replacement would be, but your pics show that it looks pretty simple. But I was thinking about just using a spring compressor so that I would have to fark around with disconnecting the brake lines (then bleeding, etc). Is this an option?
Last edited by bike4miles; 10-13-2004 at 11:52 AM.
#12
i am planning on doing the rear coils also, i'm wondering what shock i should use though, how much more travel do i want? talk about a not fun suspension install. i did all 4 ball joints today and an idler
#13
Originally Posted by fiveofeen
i am planning on doing the rear coils also, i'm wondering what shock i should use though, how much more travel do i want? talk about a not fun suspension install. i did all 4 ball joints today and an idler
#14
cool, i'm probably just gonna go out back in the shop an look at all the reflexes i got an pick one that extends about 3in longer then. glad i read this before gettin new shocks, i had a feeling i'd want one with more travel after the lift though..
#15
Originally Posted by fiveofeen
cool, i'm probably just gonna go out back in the shop an look at all the reflexes i got an pick one that extends about 3in longer then. glad i read this before gettin new shocks, i had a feeling i'd want one with more travel after the lift though..
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