Idle Surge question
#22
#23
Originally Posted by silverCRXTC
Ill try this later, you let the truck warm then kill it and then start it and let it idle then adjust it right?
#24
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Are you sure there is not a miss in all cases? Take a dollar bill, hold it tight about 1/2 inch off the tailpipe, and listen for a loud pop. If the bill get's popped, then you have a miss no matter what.
I just dont see how a brake booster could cause a miss. A miss is almost always timing related. Plugs, wires, timing...that would be my next check.
I just dont see how a brake booster could cause a miss. A miss is almost always timing related. Plugs, wires, timing...that would be my next check.
#25
The funkie idle is a very common problem with the 22RE. My dad had the same problem ('94 22RE), he replaced the TPS and it fixed it. He chased the problem around for a few years before he found out what it was. Now he gets better mileage too.
#26
Alright, I have delt with this problem quite a lot and have spent nearly a grand chasing it down over the coarse of a year so I will describe my situation and what I found out.
First of all, the surging idle is caused from too high of an idle speed. In my case, My idle was at 1000 and the screw was all the way down whch means there is a vacume leak someware. I know that now but when I first started messing with this problem I thought it was electrical because when I took out the break light fues, it stoped. For that reason I blew $150 on a used computer.
The next thing I thought it could be after talking to a mechanic was the air flow regulator on the air filter box. After he opend it up and screwed with the spring, it hardly ran at all (DON'T EVER MESS WITH THE AIR FLOW BOX SETTING! IT CONTROLS THE FULE MIXTURE AND IS PERFECTLY SET FROM THE FACTORY) There goes another $150 to replace that.
After replacing a ton of other stuff I don't remember right now, I broke down and left it with the best toy wrench in town (I always do everything myself). He thought it was the wax valve. In the process of replacing it, he noticed the butterfly in the trotle body was worn around the rim so it was not able to close compleetly. He replaced it and that was it. It ran perfectly after that.
The moral of the story: check for vacume leaks in every conceveable place you know and you will probably find the problem. It is NOT elcectrical.
First of all, the surging idle is caused from too high of an idle speed. In my case, My idle was at 1000 and the screw was all the way down whch means there is a vacume leak someware. I know that now but when I first started messing with this problem I thought it was electrical because when I took out the break light fues, it stoped. For that reason I blew $150 on a used computer.
The next thing I thought it could be after talking to a mechanic was the air flow regulator on the air filter box. After he opend it up and screwed with the spring, it hardly ran at all (DON'T EVER MESS WITH THE AIR FLOW BOX SETTING! IT CONTROLS THE FULE MIXTURE AND IS PERFECTLY SET FROM THE FACTORY) There goes another $150 to replace that.
After replacing a ton of other stuff I don't remember right now, I broke down and left it with the best toy wrench in town (I always do everything myself). He thought it was the wax valve. In the process of replacing it, he noticed the butterfly in the trotle body was worn around the rim so it was not able to close compleetly. He replaced it and that was it. It ran perfectly after that.
The moral of the story: check for vacume leaks in every conceveable place you know and you will probably find the problem. It is NOT elcectrical.
Last edited by bike4miles; 05-01-2004 at 08:16 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post