I need a tool
#1
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I need a tool
Anyone out there have a tool for removong the cranshaft pulley bolt i can borrow, or any suggestions. i'm trying to do my timing belt and can't seem to get the bolt loose.
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#5
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Breaker bar/ socket wrench with a long pipe on the handle against the frame/ground and bumping the starter w/ coil wire removed from distributor, works like a charm.
#6
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Alot of people use the starter bump method. I prefer a 3-4ft pipe on a ratchet and rent a strap or chain wrench (24"-36" handle) to hold the pulley in place. Make sure to use a heavy towel or piece of an old bike tire to protect the pulley and keep it from slipping.
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hey guys thanks. right now i am not able to crank it over. i still have the fuel injectors out. i am also crunch for time, so i believe i will attempt the chain wrench method. i''l post back and let you all know if i was successful.
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#9
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i fabed up a piece of angle iron with 2 holes in it for 2 of the bolts on the pully to bolt to.
then its just a matter of a big enough breaker bar to turn it.
btw useing the starter to get it off is easy. you still need some method of holding things still why you tighten it back up!
then its just a matter of a big enough breaker bar to turn it.
btw useing the starter to get it off is easy. you still need some method of holding things still why you tighten it back up!
#10
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well i used a chain wrench and a piece of the old drive belt. worked great. any one have a suggestion on how to compress the idler piston so i can get the timing belt on right? i gave up on trying to remove the a/c compressor.
#11
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Originally Posted by kmchby76
well i used a chain wrench and a piece of the old drive belt. worked great. any one have a suggestion on how to compress the idler piston so i can get the timing belt on right? i gave up on trying to remove the a/c compressor.
Here's where to get one:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=110
It's worth the 40 bux. Save you hours and lots of @!%$&*!!
Found it cheaper: Same tool too.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch97300.html
Good luck.
Last edited by SpikeStrip; 05-07-2006 at 09:14 AM.
#14
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Originally Posted by EWAYota
i used a heating torch and just heated up the bolt. came out easily after that.
......I hope I don't need to explain why.
If you remove the AC compressor and bracket you don't need to compress the tensioner at all (or if you wish you can compress it in a vice on a workbench). When I do mine I just remove the 2 tensioner bolts, get the belt aligned, then start the tensioner bolts again and use them to draw it back in. If you use that method, make sure to always start the bolts by hand to aviod cross threading.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 05-08-2006 at 04:14 AM.
#16
Originally Posted by ToferUOP
use the starter. use a breaker bar and make sure its on the correct side against the frame. and start to turn in over. disconnect the distributor wire first tho.
David
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ok, so you can get the bolt OFF the starter way, but how do you torque that to 212ft/lb?? Thats my question. I fabbed up a piece of steel, with 2 bolts and a center hole...Worked perfectly!!
#20
I just had a guy with a heavy duty screwdriver, shove it up into the teeth of the flywheel through the bottom access hole where the bellhousing meets the block and I used a big breaker bar and tightened and loosened the crank bolt. Torqued down to spec too.