How many miles on your 3.4L timing belt?
03-18-2007, 07:55 PM
#141
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Overland Park KS
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had figured my rig was on it's 2nd belt. Nope....Found the maint records....and I replaced the factory T-belt at 192K. It looked like it needed a new one.
My lexus gs400 is an interference motor and was done at 119K looked great.
I would have replaced the t-belt in the 4runner much sooner if it was a interference type motor.
D
My lexus gs400 is an interference motor and was done at 119K looked great.
I would have replaced the t-belt in the 4runner much sooner if it was a interference type motor.
D
03-18-2007, 09:42 PM
#143
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replaced my first one @ 60k, was told to do it again at 90k, but I'm pushing for 120 for the next one. I understand its all about preventative maintenance, but why would the first one go for 60k, and then the second go for only 30k?
07-29-2007, 03:39 PM
#145
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Guess I better start rounding some parts up....
07-30-2007, 02:51 PM
#146
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shoot, 1st post here for me and i thought I was going to have a record....I guess with Toyota's it's REALLY difficult to beat many records at all.
Anyway, bought a 96 3.4 Taco about a month ago with 187,000 on the original Timing Belt and Clutch. Both are replaced now and I feel much better driving it down the road. I'll post up some pics later on when I get a decent one.
Later,
Lance
Anyway, bought a 96 3.4 Taco about a month ago with 187,000 on the original Timing Belt and Clutch. Both are replaced now and I feel much better driving it down the road. I'll post up some pics later on when I get a decent one.
Later,
Lance
07-30-2007, 06:41 PM
#147
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: kentucky
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, thought I might have a record but it appears a few on here have me beat. 150,000 miles on the original belt but I do have the new one in the garage. Hopefully someday soon I can get around to doing the swap.
07-31-2007, 04:35 AM
#148
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i know for a fact if you have a 3.4 v6 and your Tbelt breaks it will NOT F up your motor. it will just shut off or make a racket but it will not mess up your valves and etc. i know two guys whos broke and they were at or around 165k miles. they knew it was going bad but they are lazy and didnt care. of course i had to go pick them up when it happened bc they were on the side of the road lol
07-31-2007, 05:51 PM
#151
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Fullerton,CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had my timing belt done at 115,000 miles. I had the following parts replaced:
The timing belt was worn, but not cracked or anything. There was a slight leak in the water pump, so it's a good thing I had this replaced. The mechanic told me that the cam & crankshaft seals looked "alright, but not great".
The labor was about $450 - not the cheapest place but I trust these guys and they do really good work. If anyone cares, the place was Strege Automotive in La Habra, CA.
- Timing belt
- Timing belt tensioner
- Timing belt idler pully
- Timing belt tensioner pully
- Cam & crankshaft front seals
- Accessory belts (3)
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Coolant
The timing belt was worn, but not cracked or anything. There was a slight leak in the water pump, so it's a good thing I had this replaced. The mechanic told me that the cam & crankshaft seals looked "alright, but not great".
The labor was about $450 - not the cheapest place but I trust these guys and they do really good work. If anyone cares, the place was Strege Automotive in La Habra, CA.
08-01-2007, 05:31 AM
#152
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had my timing belt done at 115,000 miles. I had the following parts replaced:
The timing belt was worn, but not cracked or anything. There was a slight leak in the water pump, so it's a good thing I had this replaced. The mechanic told me that the cam & crankshaft seals looked "alright, but not great".
The labor was about $450 - not the cheapest place but I trust these guys and they do really good work. If anyone cares, the place was Strege Automotive in La Habra, CA.
- Timing belt
- Timing belt tensioner
- Timing belt idler pully
- Timing belt tensioner pully
- Cam & crankshaft front seals
- Accessory belts (3)
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Coolant
The timing belt was worn, but not cracked or anything. There was a slight leak in the water pump, so it's a good thing I had this replaced. The mechanic told me that the cam & crankshaft seals looked "alright, but not great".
The labor was about $450 - not the cheapest place but I trust these guys and they do really good work. If anyone cares, the place was Strege Automotive in La Habra, CA.
Not a bad deal imho... I will pay more no doubt. At this point, I have two places I trust... a good dealer, and really good shop that is more pricey than the dealer...
08-01-2007, 06:25 AM
#153
Registered User
Non interference motor
This is a non-interfenece motor--you dont need to worry about valves, piston and etc....just being stranded. Thats it Really look up the motor
mine has 3000 on it. the old one had 102,000 on it. if the belt breaks it WILL F up your engine!!!!!! the valves will get thrashed!!! so dont keep it on your car till it breaks! 
and i had a toyota guy change mine, with me, and it took him almost 3 hours with air tools , he does these things everyday, i dont get how any of you say you can do it in 1 hour !!!!
and i had a toyota guy change mine, with me, and it took him almost 3 hours with air tools , he does these things everyday, i dont get how any of you say you can do it in 1 hour !!!!
08-01-2007, 07:48 AM
#154
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Matthews, NC
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Howdy yall, i read all this confusion, figured i could throw in my .02 and possibly help a bit. I've been a Yota tech for years now, and done countless timing belts. So, here we go. If yall don't agree, fine by me, do you're thing, if you do, cool, glad to hear you're on the right track. 
The 3.0, 3.4 are non-interference. 4.7 is interference. Yes though, it has been known to have problems when a non-interference engine's t-belt has broken...i've not seen it for myself though, only heard about it, and wasn't told what had happened, i have however seen a water pump break into peices and damage parts inside the belt housing(change it when you change the belt), as well as put metal shavings into the coolant system. 4.7 though, when it gets off time or breaks, it just goes clunk, and nada afterwords(again, wasn't there, think i was off that day or something..), but it damaged the heads, i think messed up a few pistons, and of course valves were toasted. Ended up getting near a whole new engine..
Yes, you can do just a belt in about 1.5-2 if you've got all tools at hand, know what the hell you're doing, and dont' run into trouble(ie, rusty bolts, dirty everywhere, things turn easy).. But lets face it, in the real world, that rarely ever comes along. Other than that, i can do a belt on the 3.4 with waterpump, seals(cam's & crank), thermostat in about 3.5hrs to 4hrs, depending on how fast i'm working & the crap i run into, i've done ones in less time as well.
Seals and waterpump are just as important to replace as well ppl. Seals will keep oil from getting on the belt, if oil gets on the belt, it's gonna deteriorate(sp?) faster. If the w/p isnt' changed, like i said, it can break and well all hell breaks loose & you could have crap everywhere in your belt housing and/or coolant passages(this goes for any other sprockets/gears tho, they do and can break), also, it could just start leaking and again, deteriorate(sp) the belt. If any other pullies, ie Tensioner, idler, etc are harsh or rough to turn, grind, or just dont' spin freely, change them as well.. they could lock up & cause the belt to take a dump. This happened in my 3.0, idler pully was seized, and belt was just rubbing on it, belt looked nasty. fortunately i blew the motor w/ water, so i never had to worry
. OHyes, if the tensioner is filthy(tensioner itself, not the pulley) or hard to press in or doesn't like comming out, or leaking, replace.
It's not hard to do these belts, espically on the 3.4... make sure the marks are lined up on the engine and you're good to go
.. very very simple engines to work on. Personally, my fav's are the 4.7, then 3.4 then other transverse v6's and 4's... They have lots of room to work with them and well just are pretty easy. Anyone with common knowledge of turning wrenches can do a t-belt, and with the 3.4, it's pretty forgiving. Remember though, turn the engine over by hand b4 you actually try starting it... if it turns over fine, and timing is still on mark, no weird noises, clunks, bangs, etc :-P, you're good to go.
Ohya, intervals of change... Toyota actually states about 80-90k miles on a factory belt. more or less, 90... On ones after that they suggest every 60k. Now does this mean you HAVE to? no.. but personally i'd rather go out wheeling under the assurance that i have a fairly fresh belt... id' rather not be towed out of the mud pit for my own ignorance or lazy nature... it's never fun(i've had my sister's old vibe pull my old 96 dodge all the way home before, was VERY humiliating, for other reasons tho, not t-belt..
)
So..
Belt:
80-90k on fact belt
60k on ones after fact
Replace:
Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat
Cam Seals
Crank Seal
Pullies as needed
Tensioner as needed
Drive belts as needed
Coolant(obviously from w/p)
Interference
3.4 - non-interference, tho has been known to have problems when breaks
3.0 - non-interference, pos, do a 3.4, 4.3 vortec, or sbc swap :-P
4.7 - interference, will go cur-plunk if breaks
Other
Have a nice day, PM with any questions/concerns, any time. If i don't know it, i'll find out for you.
The 3.0, 3.4 are non-interference. 4.7 is interference. Yes though, it has been known to have problems when a non-interference engine's t-belt has broken...i've not seen it for myself though, only heard about it, and wasn't told what had happened, i have however seen a water pump break into peices and damage parts inside the belt housing(change it when you change the belt), as well as put metal shavings into the coolant system. 4.7 though, when it gets off time or breaks, it just goes clunk, and nada afterwords(again, wasn't there, think i was off that day or something..), but it damaged the heads, i think messed up a few pistons, and of course valves were toasted. Ended up getting near a whole new engine..
Yes, you can do just a belt in about 1.5-2 if you've got all tools at hand, know what the hell you're doing, and dont' run into trouble(ie, rusty bolts, dirty everywhere, things turn easy).. But lets face it, in the real world, that rarely ever comes along. Other than that, i can do a belt on the 3.4 with waterpump, seals(cam's & crank), thermostat in about 3.5hrs to 4hrs, depending on how fast i'm working & the crap i run into, i've done ones in less time as well.
Seals and waterpump are just as important to replace as well ppl. Seals will keep oil from getting on the belt, if oil gets on the belt, it's gonna deteriorate(sp?) faster. If the w/p isnt' changed, like i said, it can break and well all hell breaks loose & you could have crap everywhere in your belt housing and/or coolant passages(this goes for any other sprockets/gears tho, they do and can break), also, it could just start leaking and again, deteriorate(sp) the belt. If any other pullies, ie Tensioner, idler, etc are harsh or rough to turn, grind, or just dont' spin freely, change them as well.. they could lock up & cause the belt to take a dump. This happened in my 3.0, idler pully was seized, and belt was just rubbing on it, belt looked nasty. fortunately i blew the motor w/ water, so i never had to worry
. OHyes, if the tensioner is filthy(tensioner itself, not the pulley) or hard to press in or doesn't like comming out, or leaking, replace. It's not hard to do these belts, espically on the 3.4... make sure the marks are lined up on the engine and you're good to go
.. very very simple engines to work on. Personally, my fav's are the 4.7, then 3.4 then other transverse v6's and 4's... They have lots of room to work with them and well just are pretty easy. Anyone with common knowledge of turning wrenches can do a t-belt, and with the 3.4, it's pretty forgiving. Remember though, turn the engine over by hand b4 you actually try starting it... if it turns over fine, and timing is still on mark, no weird noises, clunks, bangs, etc :-P, you're good to go. Ohya, intervals of change... Toyota actually states about 80-90k miles on a factory belt. more or less, 90... On ones after that they suggest every 60k. Now does this mean you HAVE to? no.. but personally i'd rather go out wheeling under the assurance that i have a fairly fresh belt... id' rather not be towed out of the mud pit for my own ignorance or lazy nature... it's never fun(i've had my sister's old vibe pull my old 96 dodge all the way home before, was VERY humiliating, for other reasons tho, not t-belt..
)So..
Belt:
80-90k on fact belt
60k on ones after fact
Replace:
Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat
Cam Seals
Crank Seal
Pullies as needed
Tensioner as needed
Drive belts as needed
Coolant(obviously from w/p)
Interference
3.4 - non-interference, tho has been known to have problems when breaks
3.0 - non-interference, pos, do a 3.4, 4.3 vortec, or sbc swap :-P
4.7 - interference, will go cur-plunk if breaks
Other
Have a nice day, PM with any questions/concerns, any time. If i don't know it, i'll find out for you.
08-04-2007, 07:59 AM
#156
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just changed mine at 160k. The water pump went or I would have let it go longer. The belt had very little wear, just at one edge and only about 1/3 of the belt and after getting the new belt I'm not so sure it wasn't just the way the threads run along the edge that made it look like it was wearing. I'm sure it was stretched a little though and it did have the little cracks that belts get but nothing that looked like a possible failure point.
A side note: While I had it open I pulled the heads and had them resurfaced and had a valve job done. The intake valves were fine and the exhaust seats were just slightly pitted, nothing that would warrant a valve job had I not had it apart already. And thats using the cheapest gas for 160k. Also the cylinder walls were in excellent shape, the factory honing was still good as new and no vertical ring wear,scaring at all. I use Valvoline high millage. Also marvel mystery oil in the crank case ever since the first oil change and when I remember in the fuel tank as well. Now she runs like a new truck!
A side note: While I had it open I pulled the heads and had them resurfaced and had a valve job done. The intake valves were fine and the exhaust seats were just slightly pitted, nothing that would warrant a valve job had I not had it apart already. And thats using the cheapest gas for 160k. Also the cylinder walls were in excellent shape, the factory honing was still good as new and no vertical ring wear,scaring at all. I use Valvoline high millage. Also marvel mystery oil in the crank case ever since the first oil change and when I remember in the fuel tank as well. Now she runs like a new truck!
