How many miles on your 3.4L timing belt?
10-01-2008, 09:24 AM
#181
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At 80K miles my 99 4runner with the 3.4 L V6 and 5-speed started squeaking around the front of the engine and I assumed it was just one of the fan/power steering/AC belts getting old. About the same time it started losing just a little bit of coolant, ~1 inch every other month low in the overflow bottle. I should have paid attention to these clues because at 90,500 miles, while driving on Christmas eve, the motor lost all power and I coasted to the side of the road. Turns out the water pump had started leaking and contaminated the center T-belt pulley causing the bearings in it to fail. When I opened the hood the pulley that failed had gotten so hot it had burned a hole through the plastic T-belt cover. Needless to say the timing belt itself was in tatters. I pulled it home, replaced the t-belt, water pump, all t-belt idlers/ pulleys and the tensioner. Its running fine at 105K miles with no squeaks or coolant loss.
I was going about 40 miles per hour when the belt gave loose and then I tried for several minutes to re-start the engine after it quit. From this I conclude that the 3.4 V6 is not, luckily for me, an interference motor.
I was going about 40 miles per hour when the belt gave loose and then I tried for several minutes to re-start the engine after it quit. From this I conclude that the 3.4 V6 is not, luckily for me, an interference motor.
edit: I wouldn't recommend using anything but Toyota parts for these intervals. If your having a non-dealer shop do the work, you might consider supplying your own parts or verifying that they are using OEM parts (save the boxes for me). These shops will cut corners and install inferior quality aftermarket/rebuilt parts unless you say different...and even then I'd like to see the parts boxes when I picked up the car.
Last edited by Tacotex; 10-01-2008 at 09:33 AM.
10-01-2008, 09:41 AM
#182
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Also take note that not all people's belt changes were in the higher mileage range and most people change their's around 100k so who knows how many might fail if they all waited til 150k. I feel safe going 120k on my new belt but anything over that is significantly increasing the odds it'll leave you stranded.
10-01-2008, 10:32 AM
#183
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Also take note that not all people's belt changes were in the higher mileage range and most people change their's around 100k so who knows how many might fail if they all waited til 150k. I feel safe going 120k on my new belt but anything over that is significantly increasing the odds it'll leave you stranded.
10-15-2008, 03:48 PM
#184
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I have 168k on my 99. I am thinking about changing the timing belt and water pump myself, within the next few weeks. Just ordered new suspension, priorities!
Never attempted motor work like this before, recommended?
Never attempted motor work like this before, recommended?
10-16-2008, 03:52 PM
#185
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Just had mine changed on the 4runner at 158k. I just got the truck and pretty sure it was the original belt, as the previous owner couldn't provide any history on that. Also replaced the water pump, hoses, thermostat, drive belts, tensioner and idlers, cam and crank seals, flushed the radiator and replaced the rear brake shoes. I saw the timing belt and it looked okay but was definitely worn with a lot of cracks on the backside when flexed. Also the pulley in my fan idler bracket is going, but at $577 for a new one from the dealer, I'm looking for an alternative solution. That has to be the most overpriced part in Toyota's inventory. It is just one bearing on a cast aluminum bracket! 
My mechanic tried a couple of local replacement parts from Kragen and Napa, but they were of poor quality and didn't fit right. Anyway, my mechanic charged me $375 in labor and I supplied the parts. Didn't think that was too bad.
My mechanic tried a couple of local replacement parts from Kragen and Napa, but they were of poor quality and didn't fit right. Anyway, my mechanic charged me $375 in labor and I supplied the parts. Didn't think that was too bad.
Last edited by dh515; 10-16-2008 at 03:55 PM.
10-17-2008, 12:27 PM
#187
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Holy crap does anyone want to change my timing belt got a price from the dealer (a$$holes) quoted me 719 dollars for the belt, water pump, and the other drive belts I thought that was a little much considering the parts were 319 dollars so 400 bucks for labor at 85 dollars an hour ?
10-17-2008, 01:12 PM
#188
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Purchased mine with 131,xxx a few months ago. I don't think the belt/water pump has been changed. Seeing a few other made it a few miles above this. I might wait till next year to change them.
I don't have any records of what was done to my 4Runner. Everything seems to be in good shape except my climate control has that issue with the buttons not always working('00 Limited) and rear diff is roaring.
I got a quote of $550 for belt, water pump and Toyota red at the dealership.
I don't have any records of what was done to my 4Runner. Everything seems to be in good shape except my climate control has that issue with the buttons not always working('00 Limited) and rear diff is roaring.
I got a quote of $550 for belt, water pump and Toyota red at the dealership.
Last edited by Husker_Runner; 10-17-2008 at 01:14 PM. Reason: $ for change at dealership
10-20-2008, 09:36 PM
#190
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If it is just a bearing on a bracket-take the whole unit down to a bearing shop. Unless Toyota has the market cornered, you can find that bearing and make it work.
The real issue if you can reuse the pulley after pulling out the bearing and having it repressed. I am completely talking out of my ass here-but you are not the first person to be in this situation.
The real issue if you can reuse the pulley after pulling out the bearing and having it repressed. I am completely talking out of my ass here-but you are not the first person to be in this situation.
10-23-2008, 03:44 PM
#192
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If it is just a bearing on a bracket-take the whole unit down to a bearing shop. Unless Toyota has the market cornered, you can find that bearing and make it work.
The real issue if you can reuse the pulley after pulling out the bearing and having it repressed. I am completely talking out of my ass here-but you are not the first person to be in this situation.
The real issue if you can reuse the pulley after pulling out the bearing and having it repressed. I am completely talking out of my ass here-but you are not the first person to be in this situation.
10-23-2008, 05:35 PM
#193
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175K on my belt/water pump. I thought for sure my 4Runner would have been listed on toyota's website with all the service records cause it was 1 owner and he worked at a Semi-Truck weight station near my cottage. But I ran the VIN to only find out there was nothing showing for dealer maintenance. Now....in any other situation I would be a little scared...but seeing on how the guy was a mechanic and the vehicle was MINT* I figure he did all his own work. There was never any claims on the vehicle "ran VIN at work" So I think the belt had been done before I owned the vehicle. I have my belt and pump in the back of my truck waiting for install it....have to get around to doing it eventually just so I know it was done for piece of mind.
Last edited by Jay204; 10-23-2008 at 05:37 PM.
12-16-2008, 01:29 PM
#198
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135K on 2000 4R 4WD timing belt
I just had my first timing belt change on my '00 4R 4WD at 135K miles. I replaced the TB, TB tensioner, water pump, TB idler pulley, thermostat, and accessory drive belts. Service was done at dealer, total cost around $750. The old timing belt was in excellent condition, zero wear on the face, zero wear on the backside, but if belt was tightly bent at zero radius there were tiny (almost microscopic) cracks visible on backside. Water pump had zero play in impeller, and absolutely zero signs of any coolant leakage from weep port. However, there was some sign of very minor leakage from around the edge of the water pump housing, where it is sealed to the block with FIPG (form-in-place-gasket). Idler pulley had zero bearing play, but idler pulley on TB tensioner arm had just-barely-detectable bearing play. All bearings in water pump, idler, and tensioner showed zero roughness or signs of lubricant leakage past seals. Crankshaft and camshaft seals showed absolutely zero oil weep and were not replaced. Engine has run Mobile-1 synthetic oil (10W-30) since first oil change, typically @ 5-6K mile intervals. This is the first major dealer service ever performed on vehicle since new. Aside from lubricants, oil filters and wiper blades, the only "failure" related expenses have been (2) brake light bulbs @$1.50 each, (1) plastic rack gear for the power antenna @ $37 and the resistor for the HVAC blower @ $26. The truck went 89K on original tires, 130K on original front brake pads. I am sure that the timing belt and all other related components would have gone another 40-50K miles. This is by far the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned in 40+ years of driving.
12-16-2008, 01:43 PM
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Also take note that not all people's belt changes were in the higher mileage range and most people change their's around 100k so who knows how many might fail if they all waited til 150k. I feel safe going 120k on my new belt but anything over that is significantly increasing the odds it'll leave you stranded.
