How loud is your Super Charger?
#21
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just spoke to a mechanic at a local toyota dealer and he said that he would first try a cooler spark plug and a lower temperature thermostat. I was doing some more searching on line and came across the URD 7th injector kit Link----------> http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1260518512
I dont want to spend the 1000 bucks unless its really gonna solve my problem. What do you guys think? I rather spend 1000 then have my engine blow up........I just want to get a second opinion.
I dont want to spend the 1000 bucks unless its really gonna solve my problem. What do you guys think? I rather spend 1000 then have my engine blow up........I just want to get a second opinion.
#22
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the bkr5 and ik16 plugs are stock. Go with ik20 or bkr6 for one stop colder.
Make sure it's detonation you are hearing and not a sc in need of service.
Make sure it's detonation you are hearing and not a sc in need of service.
#24
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No. I'm saying figure out what's broken. If it's plugs then go one step colder.
I hear you on the 7th injector. It's costs more than I paid for my SC.
I hear you on the 7th injector. It's costs more than I paid for my SC.
#25
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Well, if you have audible ping like you are describing, it's probable plugs and a thermostat won't be enough. However, its a relatively cheap thing to try first.
Get some Denso Iridium IK-22 Spark Plugs which are 2-steps cooler than stock and make sure to gap them between .032" to .035", which seems to be the optimum for a supercharged 3.4l.
For the thermostat, get a 170 degree one, that's what I'm running and it works well.
If those two things don't work, you'll have to get a way to retard your timing, which means a piggyback control unit like the one that comes with the URD 7th injector kit. When (if) you get the 7th injector kit, make sure to get the wiring harness adapter, it will make your job a lot easier and 100% reversible.
Get some Denso Iridium IK-22 Spark Plugs which are 2-steps cooler than stock and make sure to gap them between .032" to .035", which seems to be the optimum for a supercharged 3.4l.
For the thermostat, get a 170 degree one, that's what I'm running and it works well.
If those two things don't work, you'll have to get a way to retard your timing, which means a piggyback control unit like the one that comes with the URD 7th injector kit. When (if) you get the 7th injector kit, make sure to get the wiring harness adapter, it will make your job a lot easier and 100% reversible.
#26
I tried to ditch my audible HG/LR ping in stages but it simply did not work. I went for the cheapest things first such as plugs, thermostat, free fmu, coolant bypass, even heat reflective tape on the fuel line. While many of those items made a small difference, the sum of all parts did not solve the problem. It wasn't until I went with Supra injectors, Walbro 190, and the SMT6 piggyback (with 11 degrees of timing retard in some places on the map!) that I got rid of audible ping. Of course I was running my rig in one of the hottest places in the US (Phoenix), so the environment was extreme, and only 91 octane was available, but still - check out those timing retard numbers! Now that I'm in the PNW I re-mapped the timing maps to about -5 degrees (yes ambient temps make that much of a difference). Moral to the story: Give those little things a shot until you can afford the "big" fuel/timing mods. At least you will alleviate the problem a bit for under $100. Oh, and if it makes you feel any better, the donor rig I purchased had 197K miles on it; 100K of which were supercharged with NO fuel/timing mods. The thing pinged like a mother but it held strong. Just goes to show you how durable the 5VZ is.
#27
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So after doing some more research this is exactly my problem. Thank you guys so much for the info. I spoke to Gadget this morning from URD and he explained to me that his kit will solve my problem but the solution is going to set me back 1,000 bucks. At this point I really dont know what to do since I dont have the money for the kit right now. I was thinking of just removing the SC from my truck since I still have the original intake manifold. Theres a toyota mechanic down the street from me that is really considering buy a SC for his tacoma, so what im thinking is giving him my SC in exchange for the labor to remove and replace with the stock stuff and maybe ask him to do a complete fluid change and tune up on my truck. I think that would sound like a good deal right? Im surprised that TRD never addressed this problem with there SC. I called them this morning and spoke to some dummy there that didnt know much. He also said that its impossible for me to have TRD headers because TRD didnt make headers for my year truck (TRD is stamped right on my headers and they were dealer installed). So that shows what kind of techs they have working there. He also said that TRD has no solution to my HG/LR ping problem and that hes has never heard of such a thing with there SC's. So............I dont know what to do. Sell my truck, spend the 1,000 bucks next year or just have it removed. My only concern is that the truck now has 120,000 miles and Im sure there is some internal damage by now since this problem was never fixed. How much more life should i expect from this engine if i were to add the 7th injector kit?
#28
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I was thinking of just removing the SC from my truck since I still have the original intake manifold. Theres a toyota mechanic down the street from me that is really considering buy a SC for his tacoma, so what im thinking is giving him my SC in exchange for the labor to remove and replace with the stock stuff and maybe ask him to do a complete fluid change and tune up on my truck. I think that would sound like a good deal right?
You could always take it off and keep it until you have the money for the URD kit too...
Well, they did release the TRD 7th injector kit which helps with some of the fueling problem, but doesn't address timing or the undersized fuel pump.
I called them this morning and spoke to some dummy there that didnt know much. He also said that its impossible for me to have TRD headers because TRD didnt make headers for my year truck (TRD is stamped right on my headers and they were dealer installed). So that shows what kind of techs they have working there. He also said that TRD has no solution to my HG/LR ping problem and that hes has never heard of such a thing with there SC's.
So............I dont know what to do. Sell my truck, spend the 1,000 bucks next year or just have it removed. My only concern is that the truck now has 120,000 miles and Im sure there is some internal damage by now since this problem was never fixed. How much more life should i expect from this engine if i were to add the 7th injector kit?
If I were you I would remove the S/C and keep it until you can buy a URD kit. That or take it off or sell it here because there are LOTS of people that would give you $1500 for it without trouble.
#29
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1500!!!! Wow!! Thats alot!! I was thinking i would be lucky to get 500! Well you just made my day better. I will just order the kit from URD in a couple of months. As far as the Nose cone.......Does the complete SC need to be rebuilt or just the cone? Have you ever rebuilt your complete charger??
#30
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1500!!!! Wow!! Thats alot!! I was thinking i would be lucky to get 500! Well you just made my day better. I will just order the kit from URD in a couple of months. As far as the Nose cone.......Does the complete SC need to be rebuilt or just the cone? Have you ever rebuilt your complete charger??
Here's my 4Runner's mods page
Link: My supercharger rebuild thread
Link: Some of my supercharger tuning experiences
Link: Top-end rebuild thread
Link: Cruising the dunes with supercharged 4Runner
#31
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So why the IK22 over the IK20? Have you tried both and do the IK22s do a better job with HG/LR ping?
Once or twice I've been able to get my motor to ping momentarily. I only installed the SC 200miles ago. Stock plugs and thermo, half a tank of 87 and the other half 91, so um 89 pump gas at the moment I figure.
ECT is always on because I'm geared poorly with 33's. I think I'll tighten the kick down cable a bit too to advance the shifts.
Thanks for any advice.
Once or twice I've been able to get my motor to ping momentarily. I only installed the SC 200miles ago. Stock plugs and thermo, half a tank of 87 and the other half 91, so um 89 pump gas at the moment I figure.
ECT is always on because I'm geared poorly with 33's. I think I'll tighten the kick down cable a bit too to advance the shifts.
Thanks for any advice.
Last edited by LarsDennert; 09-30-2009 at 09:37 PM.
#32
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Running with ECT on all the time is fine, you may take a slight hit in your mileage because of it though. Also, tightening your kickdown cable is an excellent idea to firm up your shifts.
#34
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Possibly but the computer may refuse to go into closed loop and complain. Happened to me on a Camaro with 105 octane.
I'm speculating as these are the first mods on the 3.4 I've done. I'm still learning from those who've been down this road.
I'm speculating as these are the first mods on the 3.4 I've done. I'm still learning from those who've been down this road.
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#36
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Good to know that. I will be pulling a trailer to the desert in a few weeks so I'm going to make sure I pick some octane booster for the trip. I just spoke to gadget from URD this morning and I will be ordering the 7th injector he sells. But it's good to know that an octane booster will at least help not get the pinging when pulling a load. Thanks for the info.
#37
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I wonder how many people are running a smaller pully? Seems that would cause quite a bit of detonation.
So far I'm trouble free but I guess towing will be the real test. On BKR7 plugs and 92 octane... I'll keep my fingers crossed.
So far I'm trouble free but I guess towing will be the real test. On BKR7 plugs and 92 octane... I'll keep my fingers crossed.
#38
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#40
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Open loop is when your ECU isn't using feedback from your fuel management sensors.
Closed loop is when your ECU is using the sensors to try to get your fuel to 14.7 AFR's
Check this link page 11 but you should read the whole thing.
http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
Closed loop is when your ECU is using the sensors to try to get your fuel to 14.7 AFR's
Check this link page 11 but you should read the whole thing.
http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
Last edited by Tragic Drive; 10-05-2009 at 06:52 PM.