Oh man... I think we may have found part of your problem.

When I first put a free-flow exhaust on my 3.4 6 banger, the shop suggested 3" piping from the cat to the tail in order to get the sound I described. Not only did it not get the sound I wanted, it TRASHED my power curve. I mean to the extent of just hosing it from top to bottom. That was a 3/4" increase over stock.

I went back and had them re-do the work with 2 1/2" pipe (which was 1/4" over because I knew I was going to add headers) and the power curve came back from about 2300 on up. A few weeks later I added headers and that brought the low-end back along with sweetening the mid and top end.

Check this article: http://www.torquetechexh.com/whichsize.htm and note the chart which relates engine size to maximum exhaust pipe diameter. The lowest the chart goes is a 2.5L engine, but even there they're recommending 2.5" MAX and only if you're pulling 200HP out of it.


Like's been said above, the exhaust system for these engines MUST be somewhat restrictive for gas scavenging to work - it sets up a vacuum of sorts that draw the exhaust gases out of the cylinder. Without this going on the engine will lose power and get boggy from the waste sitting around in the cylinder.

I'd bet that you'd get power back if you went to 2" pipe. 2 1/4" may be okay as well given you have headers.

 

Okay all this got me thinking and all my thinking got me doing. I ran outside and measured my pipes. They're only 2 1/4". I shouldn't doubt the shop. I'll see for sure how my efficiency is affected when I fill up. I was getting up to 19.5 before the header and cat. I hop this can push me into the 20s. I still need to replace my fuel filter, but I can't get it. I'll make a shop do it next time I go in. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

How can the headers scavenge anything when they aren't interconnected like the stock manifold is?

At least on the 22RE stock manifold, the exhaust pathways are set up so that the exiting of one cylinder's exhaust pulse will create a vacuum for the next cylinder in the firing order. That is what I understand scavenging to be.

I thought that the main idea of a header was to decrease exhaust restriction to some degree.

I have a Doug Thorley header on my 22RE. I have noticed that some of the primary tubes are longer than they really need to be, which I assume is some form of scavenging.

 

Don't wrap the pacesetters. The pacesetters are the crappiest. but for $50 bucks thats a good deal.
I installed some on my Probe GT, the Pacesetters made the most power (for the Probe with a KL series).

I had mine coated, it was about $100 for the V6 headers. It was ceramic mixed in with some alum. and the temp said cooler than stock manifolds.

 

The cylinders don't have to be interconnected close up to the port, the "shockwave" of the exhaust will still happen at the collector and affect the flow of gasses. Think of a tuned pipe on a 2cycle engine, like a motorcycle. The "tuning" of the pipe happens way down the line from the exhaust port, but you can definitely feel/hear when the engine "comes up on the pipe". {side note: that's SUCH a sweet sound!}

Headers are indeed there to reduce exhaust restriction, but in a pretty mathematical way. Creating a "good header" is a science. You can run too much (not enough, poorly bent, etc) pipe at the header, just like at the tailpipe.

 

Hey Pirate Fins

What can I do to the front end of my motor?? I have a K&N FIPK, but what else can be done on that side??? 89 22re

 

Throttle body, cam (sort of front end), MAFS

(sorry to jump in)

 

Point me in the direction of where to get stuff for my throttle body. How expensive is that particular mod?

What can be done to the mass air flow sensor on a 22re??

Doesn't seem like there is much to change.

 

Maybe he thought you didn't have intake. You can get an upgraded throttle body at a number of places. I think LC engineering sells them. Try googling 22re Throttle body upgrade and see what you get. Probably run you around $300. If you are good with a dremel, you could bore it yourself like I did. You can bore it from the front to the butterfly valve. The idea is to taper it.

The MAFS usually requires a small internal adjustment when you upgrade the 22re engine. I think 4x4wire has an article on tweaking it. Usually this is for a lean condition though, and I dont think you have that problem. I don't know if I would screw with the MAFS just get anyway.

I thought the 22re had a VFM (Vane Flow Meter) anyway...hmmmm...

 

I put on the NWOR TriY header and have definitely seen an improvement in the low end torque. I can hold it in a higher gear going up hills that I had to downshift to get up before I installed it. As a result, my MPG has increased somewhat.

 

I'm not sure if it is an mafs or not it has a big gate that opens and closes and it is right behind my k&n cone.

I wish I could get some cold air in my hood. I think having the FIPK right next to the new hot header is probably real bad. I'd put a new hood on if I could find one.

I'll let you guys know how my mileage turns out. I'm trying to be pretty fair on this tank. Not to rowdy, but not grandma conservative.