first off just wanna say hey to all y'all yota fans out there.
here is my situation. i initially had problems with idling on cold starts, and by cold i mean engine cold, not ambient cold. if i didnt feather the throttle, the engine would die, but after a few minutes of warm up, the problem 'went away'. well, i was on my way home last night and the engine simply stalled as i was driving. it starts with no problem, both when the initial problem occurred, as well as now. however, i am no longer able to warm it up, and it continues to stall. i have a check engine light on as well.
so, my question is, can someone out there tell me if there is a way to read my code via the check engine light. i tried to google the problem, and found a description of how to jumper terminals which results in a flashing sequence, but that was for a 93 4runner, so i don't know if it is applicable to my 99. i appreciate any help y'all can offer.

 

Autozone can pull the code for free. Have you had a tune-up recently? Also, could be a fuel-related issue.

 

thanks for the reply, but right now its not driveable.

 

I think you can buy a code puller for $15-30 or so. You might need to pull the code to actually get any helpful info.

 

your probably definitely going to need the code from your CEL. Auto Zone will do it for free, but as you stated, its not driveable. Throwing parts at an unknown problem is a great way to waste money, see what you can narrow down...

 

Sounds like the IAC

 

you can rent the code puller from autozone....you pay for it up front and when you bring it back they give you back your money...try that and it will give you a good starting point

 

^^^^^^^^ head to your local autozone get the reader and then report back the code. This will allow us to help you

 

thanks for the suggestions! excuse the ignance...CEL...IAC...<--wtf?!?!
i'll try acronym finder or google...
also, i'll definitely rent the code machine, there is an autozone in town.

 

CEL...Check Engine Light?
IAC...Idle Air Control
google and acronym finder are the rulez!1!1!!111

 

The CEL is Check Engine Light.
I beleive the IAC is an Idle Air Controller or something pretty close to that.

 

IAC - Idle Air Control Valve

Ride, you're really going to have to get those codes pulled with an OBD II reader before we can help since you can only use the jumper trick on OBD I or earlier models and to just guess at the issue isn't going to help you much with fixing the problem. You can take it to Autozone and have them read for free, take it to a shop or buy and OBD reader and do it at home yourself.

 

thanks MTL, and everyone else!
yeah my plan is to pick up a code reader and give it a go this weekend
i have a 'wrench' in my pocket, that is to say a good buddy of mine has a shop but he is 50+ miles away, so as sketch as my truck is right now i cant drive it to him, or a shop. i'm gonna have to try to diagnose it myself, with y'alls help of course, once i get a code reader. i'm glad i found this forum, y'all seem like a real helpful bunch!

 

i picked up an Actron CP9125 code reader at autozone yesterday for $79.
hooked it up today
codes it read were
P0125 <--EDIT: loaded software that came w/...Fuel Air Metering
P1133<--Manufacturer Control FAM
P1135<--Same as above
it also ?!?!?!? listed P1133 and P1135 as pd (pending) with up/down arrows
i scrolled through the menu further and saw the following
MILL ON
MONITORS
2 INC
CAT
EVAP
5 Ready
MISFIRE
FUEL
COMP
O2 SENSOR
O2 HTR

 

Ok from the codes you gave I have the following for a Toyota:

P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

P1133 A/F Sensor Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

(The pending codes just means that the ECU is seeing them come up over and over again....ie counting)

Thie tells me that the O2 sensor is likely bad (P0133, P0135) so the first thing I would do is to replace the front O2 sensor (ie the one in front of the cat). www.urdusa.com has very good prices on OEM sensors (don't use a generic for replacement!). The P0125 code can be from the O2 sensor or it may not. I would replace the sensor first. Pull the negative battery cable for a minute to reset all the codes and drive it again. Then see if any codes return......if you do see a CEL, use your code reader and repost the new ones.

 

first i want to say thanks for the quick response.
i wanted to doulbe check before i replied. i read the codes again and the second/third ones read 1133 and 1135...

 

P1133: A/F Sensor Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1135: A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm

 

Sorry about that, I had them wrong (so I edited them above), but the irony is that the P1133 and P1135 are just for a vehicle that has an A/F sensor in front of the converter vs P0133 and P0135 which would be a vehicle that had just O2 sensors. The codes are essentially Identical and so would be my advice except you need to make sure you get an Air/Fuel (A/F) sensor, not just a regular O2.

 

When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced?

 

new wrinkle
what part of the vin tells me whether or not its cali certified? i learned today that it makes a difference which sensor i buy.
also, can any of you speak to the success of online purchase/quality? vs yota oem?
thanks again!
note to a mod that might read this. i also post on another v'bulletin coded board and it has a feature at the bottom for a 'quick reply'. it went over well there, perhaps the users here would enjoy it?