How to clean a motor and things to consider for an optimal tune up!
#1
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From: Mexicali, Baja California Mexico
How to clean a motor and things to consider for an optimal tune up!
I have a 98 Toyota Tacoma Truck, Sr5 4x4, Can anyone help me with:
Tune Up Tips, I am going to take a Off Road and want to give my truck a full tune up.
How to clean my motor its full of mud!
Thanks a lot and Happy Holidays!
Tune Up Tips, I am going to take a Off Road and want to give my truck a full tune up.
How to clean my motor its full of mud!
Thanks a lot and Happy Holidays!
#2
seafoam.....for directions on great seafoam usage...see HERE.
Also, plugs, wires, oil, flush the radiator, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter(? up to you?), and go ahead and change the tranny, t-case and diff fluids.
Also, plugs, wires, oil, flush the radiator, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter(? up to you?), and go ahead and change the tranny, t-case and diff fluids.
Last edited by 04 Rocko Taco; 12-20-2007 at 05:11 AM. Reason: fixed invalid link
#3
Plugs wires do not need replacement with the coil pack setup.
Here's what I do whenever I buy a used car. (some stuff that doesnt apply to a tacoma left out) As a mechanic, I'm a little anal on maintenence. This would be a good full tune up for you.
Change oil and filter.
Change spark plugs. Apply SMALL amount of anti-seize to the threads, and add some di-electric grease to the inside of the boots.
Flush and fill coolant (full flush, remove drain plug on block and run hose through radiator)
Flush brake fluid and power steering fluid if its dirty (optional for you)
Change front and rear diff fluid, and the t-case fluid if its a manual trans
Drain and fill trans fluid if its dirty. (auto trans)
Replace PCV valve
Clean out throttle body with carb cleaner and rag. Then do a seafoam treatment.
Top off windsheild wiper fluid (important if your 4wheeling)
Check/clean/or replace air filter
Check the front brake pads for wear. Clean brake parts off with brake cleaner
Check rear brake shoes for wear. Clean brake drum and shoes with brake cleaner.
Replace the fuel filter. They are like $25 at Walmart or more at the dealer.
Run a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the gas tank.
Grease your drive shaft. Get EVERY zerk. All other grease fittings on chassis should be sealed and not need grease, but if you do have a greaseable tie rod end or something, grease it.
Also before every offroad trip, I do the following:
Jack the front end up and wiggle the tires up and down and side to side to check for ball joint play and steering play, or wheel bearing play.
Grab your tie rod ends and make sure they are tight.
CLOSELY inspect CV shaft boots for cracks and leakage.
Re-tighten ubolt nuts
Re-tighten drive shaft nuts
Grab driveshaft and check for side to side and rotational play.
(if you have manual hubs) check hubs for smooth lock/unlock operation
Lock hubs, put in 4wd, and make sure 4wd works properly
Your safe to clean your motor at the carwash with a high pressure hose. Just be careful and dont apply too much pressure to sensitive electric parts or hoses. If its really muddy, I'd first do a quick pressure wash to remove the loose mud, then go back over it with a soapy brush by hand. Then a good powerwash.
Here's what I do whenever I buy a used car. (some stuff that doesnt apply to a tacoma left out) As a mechanic, I'm a little anal on maintenence. This would be a good full tune up for you.
Change oil and filter.
Change spark plugs. Apply SMALL amount of anti-seize to the threads, and add some di-electric grease to the inside of the boots.
Flush and fill coolant (full flush, remove drain plug on block and run hose through radiator)
Flush brake fluid and power steering fluid if its dirty (optional for you)
Change front and rear diff fluid, and the t-case fluid if its a manual trans
Drain and fill trans fluid if its dirty. (auto trans)
Replace PCV valve
Clean out throttle body with carb cleaner and rag. Then do a seafoam treatment.
Top off windsheild wiper fluid (important if your 4wheeling)
Check/clean/or replace air filter
Check the front brake pads for wear. Clean brake parts off with brake cleaner
Check rear brake shoes for wear. Clean brake drum and shoes with brake cleaner.
Replace the fuel filter. They are like $25 at Walmart or more at the dealer.
Run a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the gas tank.
Grease your drive shaft. Get EVERY zerk. All other grease fittings on chassis should be sealed and not need grease, but if you do have a greaseable tie rod end or something, grease it.
Also before every offroad trip, I do the following:
Jack the front end up and wiggle the tires up and down and side to side to check for ball joint play and steering play, or wheel bearing play.
Grab your tie rod ends and make sure they are tight.
CLOSELY inspect CV shaft boots for cracks and leakage.
Re-tighten ubolt nuts
Re-tighten drive shaft nuts
Grab driveshaft and check for side to side and rotational play.
(if you have manual hubs) check hubs for smooth lock/unlock operation
Lock hubs, put in 4wd, and make sure 4wd works properly
Your safe to clean your motor at the carwash with a high pressure hose. Just be careful and dont apply too much pressure to sensitive electric parts or hoses. If its really muddy, I'd first do a quick pressure wash to remove the loose mud, then go back over it with a soapy brush by hand. Then a good powerwash.
Last edited by Adam F; 12-19-2007 at 03:01 PM.
#6
Cleaning the engine bay:
I usually go to the local car wash to do this. I leave the motor running and spray the engine compartment with Simple Green. I let it sit about 5 minutes and then use the spray wand to rinse it off. I do not squeeze the trigger on the wand for the high power blast...I just use that low pressure stream for the rinse job. After that, I drive home and let the engine dry for a while. The last thing I do is touch up any missed spots and spray all my rubber and plastic engine parts (not the belts) with 303 Aerospace Protectant
I usually go to the local car wash to do this. I leave the motor running and spray the engine compartment with Simple Green. I let it sit about 5 minutes and then use the spray wand to rinse it off. I do not squeeze the trigger on the wand for the high power blast...I just use that low pressure stream for the rinse job. After that, I drive home and let the engine dry for a while. The last thing I do is touch up any missed spots and spray all my rubber and plastic engine parts (not the belts) with 303 Aerospace Protectant
#7
[QUOTE=Bighead;50699882]Cleaning the engine bay:
I usually go to the local car wash to do this. I leave the motor running and spray the engine compartment with Simple Green. QUOTE]
ouch! im not really too sure your supposed to spray your engine while its running... for fear of shorting out the alternator or messin something up.
I usually go to the local car wash to do this. I leave the motor running and spray the engine compartment with Simple Green. QUOTE]
ouch! im not really too sure your supposed to spray your engine while its running... for fear of shorting out the alternator or messin something up.
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#8
People say that but I was told, by my dad when I was young, to leave the car running. Always have and never had a problem with anything. Just don't use the full pressure and you should be ok.
That's up to you though.
That's up to you though.
#9
You wont have problems with leaving the engine running and spraying it off. And if your careful, you wont have problems with using the high pressure blast.
But cleaning a muddy engine compartment is different than cleaning a dirty engine compartment. Even if you spray degreaser on it and spray it off, it will still leave a muddy film after it dries. Only way to get it off is to clean it with a cloth by hand.
But cleaning a muddy engine compartment is different than cleaning a dirty engine compartment. Even if you spray degreaser on it and spray it off, it will still leave a muddy film after it dries. Only way to get it off is to clean it with a cloth by hand.
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