I was able to piece together and install a used Gen 1 (gray) S/C on my swapped 3.4 (97 manual into converted 95 auto to manual) 4runner. I did rebuild the nosecone as the oil seal was busted and the idiot packed the thing with grease.. duh..Right now I do not have any fuel mods yet. So I just stuck the S/C on and I am still running the 95 fuel pump. Before I installed I was getting terrible gas milage of about 13 mpg. Since the install it has not been worse but it did not improve either. I put in a new front O2 sensor but no improvement yet. Also cleaned up the MAF, cleaned throttlebody, new fuel filter, and new air filter. The issues I have currently is that the S/C is very hot after doing some trips around town. I have no idea if this is normal but it the chamber with the rotors that seems to be overly hot. My lame temp gauge is not showing any overheating at all but it is still extremely hot to the touch after about an hour or so. This heat is also radiating into the cab as my legs get pretty warm. I will hook up my little scangauge and check engine temps but I think my electric fan and controller are keeping the engine cool. The other issue I am having is the Long term trim is still going up to +14.8 and just sitting there. I goes down to around 10 while driving and I have the pedal down but any time I get to a light or just idling it shoot back up to that number and doesnt move at all. It just seems like something is off and I am not sure what it could be at this point. I do need to buy and install a air/fuel gauge asap. Any ideas to start checking this out??

 

Everything sounds pretty normal. There will be more heat with the supercharger. Get an IR thermometer and see what the supercharger temp is. 140-180f is not bad and what mine would sit at. More after boosting was not unheard of. The outlet temps from the supercharger can easily be 200f+ so that is also how hot the supercharger will get.

Check the OBD and see what the temps say. The heat you are feeling in your legs is most likely the manifold that runs behind the engine being red hot from running lean.

 

The ECU on the 1997's are not able to provide as much gas as the later ECU's. With a 97 module it is more important to proivide fuel mods to increase fuel delivery. Im surprised Ace didn't recommend the methanol injection, lol. Meth sounds like a great addition from what Ive read. Anyway, you probally need more fuel delivery. Also, cooler spark plugs and a cooler thermostat may help.

Here is a link to a cheap IR temp gauge

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130624621877...84.m1438.l2649

 

Kinda figured fuel mods were a given lol. Meth injection is a great option but does come with the need to be able to get pure methanol in bulk.

If you can do that then I loved it, if not then the 7th injector is more practical for most. Meth injection works fine with the 7th as well.

Think I got my IR temp gauge for $15 from harbor freight.

 

Yeah I will be doing some type of fuel delivery mod in the future. I need to get the money and also figure out what can be done in Cali. URDs website states the 7th is not street legal in cali. So I either need to get a good friend who does the checks or hope they don't check it. Tex I am not sure if you remember but you gave me some pointers on a hesitation I was having. Well it still is there and it is driving me nuts!! I did move to cooler plugs (IK20s) and a cooler thermostat (170) when I installed the charger. So the hesitation is still there which is making me think that it is either the intake gasket, fuel pump, or a wiring issue from my 3.4 swap. The hesitation seems to be the same as it was before the charger and had to do a bunch of new vacuum connections so I pretty much ruled that out. I am kinda going crazy trying to understand what this problem is. No CELs. I did find a slight hole in the exhaust between my crossover and my O2 and had that fixed up today. But still having the issue. If I cram down on the pedal it hesitates and then goes fine and then when I release it starts to backfire a bit as it goes back down. I am starting to wonder if the crossover from toyonly is defficient. This issue has pretty much been there since I did the swap. So what do you think is a good think to start with? It is strange that my Long trim goes up to 14.85 everytime I am idling. Never higher. Always goes there when I press the clutch down or just idiling. I just think it is strange.

 

A wideband is really needed, that will also help you figure out your hesitation.

The hesitation sounds like it is caused by something electrical, a sensor, short something along those lines.

Build a pressure tester and pressure test the whole supercharger/intake and use water with soap to find any leaks.

For the fuel options, I think pure methanol is hard to come by out there so doubt that is a real option for you. The 7th's would not be street legal due to it removing the EGR if you already don't have EGR then you could use it I think.

Only other option is the 6 injector kit from URD, I really don't care for it but it works.

 

Bad Attitude - I thought the ECU issue with the 97 was only the Tacoma. Is it also the 4runner too? I will do some more investigating. I did pick up some 305 cc injectors from scrap yard but not sure what I need for electronics to drive them. I know I will need to step up to the 190 lph pump for it. One thing I forgot to mention. I did a check on fuel pressure a few months ago and with the car on I never recieved a reading from the gauge. I figured the rental from autozone was deficient and never ended up doing anything with the info. Especially since it does run so it has to have some pressure.. Unless I connected it wrong which its not that hard. I should probably do it again just to check it. The car did sit for about 8 months after I spun the bearing and finished my swap but I would think after two filter changes all the sediment should be out of the tank.. Just trying to think of anything that could be causing this PIA.

 

Thanks for the input. I am thinking a short of something is also the issue. How do I build a tester that you mentioned? Would a search on Yota lead me to it? Can you use a wideband with a 97? I feel kinda stupid about the use of the wideband. I thought you could only use them from 99 and on since they have the AFR sensors.

 

You talking about the OBD fuel pressure? That doesn't work, our trucks don't have a fuel pressure gauge.

Get a wideband first so you can see where you stand and STOP BOOSTING.

Once you have the wideband you can see what things look like. I would try resetting the ECU as a start, see if anything changes. If it keeps adding 14% fuel in the long term trims you might be able to add the larger injectors as is without the ECU freaking out.

 

Actually the wideband sensors were only on the cali trucks for 99+, the rest of them didn't get it till 01. That doesn't matter though since a wideband gauge will have it's own sensor and works completely separate from the truck.

The boost tester is just a coupler and some kind of PVC cap to block it off, Ten some hose clamps to hold it together. then drill/tap the PVC for a nipple that you hook up to an air compressor. Google should give you some examples.

 

Nah I used the gauge you connect to the fuel rail (loaner from autozone). It never read anything. which I thought was either the gauge or my bad at using the damn thing.. So for wideband what do you suggest? Ok I will stop boosting. I don't want to turn the engine to ˟˟˟˟. Going to take the family to disneyland finally next week so I am extremely low on funds for the next couple of weeks. Any other way to reset ecu than pulling negative cable on battery?

 

Hmm, was not aware we had a test port on our fuel rails.

Yes, stop boosting for sure. Wideband there are lots of options, lot of new ones came on the market in the last few years, might do some searching and see which seem to have worked out the best.

You can just remove the EFI fuse to reset the ECU but I prefer pulling the battery overnight to make sure everything is cleared out.

 

Yeah there is not. You have to remove the union bolt on the rail and the kit had an adapter that screws into the union bolt area. I will see what I can do to find a wideband out there that will work well with the 3.4> Any thoughts on checking on the hesitation while I save up for the wideband? I guess I will break out the FSM and check all sensors. Then go over all my wiring this weekend from the swap.

 

I would start by watching all the OBDII sensors with as fast a refresh rate as possible and then make it hesitate over and over to see if anything jumps out as being odd.

Any wideband will work, they don't care what car/engine you have. Just a matter of making sure that it is the right bang for the buck for your wallet.

 

Tex - I finally hooked in the wideband. I also was able to find a FTC-1 (Toyotat 3.4 specific with enrichment) on CL but have not wired it in yet. I want to try and tackle this issue before I make all my mods I am planning (305's , Supra MAF and Walbro 190).. I still need to get the pump and send out the injectors for cleaning and flow matching.What should I be looking for on the wideband and how can I use it to my advantage fully? I also messed around with taking data from OBD and My long term trim still stays at 14.85 at idle. No movement up or down at all. Always just that number. It seems incredibly strange to me that it would act this way. When you press the pedal down it will head down but once you let off it jumps right back up to this 14.85 and stays exactly that.. Also, my senond 02 short term trim is always -1. Always. Never moves. When I got my motor and harness for my swap the rear 02 wiring was cut down by the sensor so I had to wire in a new plug. I did not solder but used connectors. This is about 8 inches before the plug on the engine harness side. Could this be my issue do you think? Just trying to think of a reason for the trims being way outta way.

 

With the wideband just watch the AFR's and see if they go out of range. They should stay right around 14.7:1 during everything but WOT. At which point it should richen up to preferably around 11.8:1 but the stock ECU is always off some.

Watch the AFR's when it hesitates, see if it is lean or rich.

The long term not changing is odd but then you say it does change when you drive it? It won't change when just idling much, only once you start driving it will it really change.

 

The AFR when it hesitates jumps from 14.7 to over 17. It only hesitates when I jump on it and it is pretty short but it looks like it leans out. After I made it hesitate it took quite a while for the AFR to trickle down back to 14.7. Like 5 minutes which seems to me I have a leak somewhere. I have changed and checked hoses galore but not dice. The only item left is the intake gasket as far as gaskets go. When i go into boost it does richen up but not down to 11.8. Comes down to around 13 or so. Yes the long trim stays exactly 14.85 and does not move off that point unless i hit the gas. While driving it will get down to maybe 8 at the min on the freeway. This is driving me nuts though. Any thoughts? And thank you for taking the time to give me help. Sorry about no hard returs, my work computer does not do them for some reason..

 

Well the lean out appears to be the cause of the mis-fire. I had the same problem went eh ECU was learning the supercharger but it usually went away after a week or so once it learned.

A vacuum/boost leak is very possible, or the wrong hose roughting. I would run a boost leak test on it (can make your own tester or buy one, search google). Also triple check the vacuum lines go to the right places.

The long term fuel trim I am even more confused, you say it doesn't move and then the next thing you say is it does?

If your AFR's are in the 13's I would stay out of boost until you get the fuel mods taken care of. Your EGT's are skyrocketing and it is not good. You want the AFR's in the 11's on plain pump gas.

 

Ok I will do a boost leak check to see if I have an issue there. I have been cooling it on boosting so hopefully I have not damaged anything. Sorry to confuse you on the long term trims. While idliing it is always 14.85 but will change while gas pedal is applied. Once i let up off the gas and return to idling it will shoot back up and stay right at 14.85. Its like the ECU is not learning from inputs for the long term fuel. I am not sure why it would do that. I wish there was a definite routing diagram for the gray supercharger. The ones I could find were not that great for detail. I think they are correct but of course will check and reverify everything. I had the hesitation before I installed it so it could be the intake gasket since I didn't touch it. Will the boost leak check also check the seal at the intake? I will search on google and see what I can find to build something.

 

The 5vz is a very strong engine so you can usually get away with the lean problem but it is far from ok or good. EGT's can get to almost 2000 degrees.

Sounds to me like the long term trims are fine, they will pretty much stick to a set amount at idle. It only changes for different load/RPM conditions. If it is idling at ~14.7, then figure it is fine.

I would worry much more about what happens around the hesitation.

Making a boost leak tester is not hard, yes it will test all parts of the system except the bypass valve. Just get some soapy water and spray it everywhere and watch for bubbles.