Headers: Downey vs NWOR
#1
Headers: Downey vs NWOR
I posted this on 4x4wire also...
I suppose I should just draw the winner from a hat, because I really can't decide. Both companies hate each other and bash each other in their literature, so I am not really that dependant on that. The finish is not so important to me, becasue even if I go with the NWOR offering I think I will have them ceramic coated. I guess my biggest concern is this: the NWOR catalog says "NWOR headers have been designed for maximum clearance between the truck body - "they will not cook your starter motor or burn your carpet" like brand "D" headers." When I look at the pics, it does look like the NWOR headers angle down a little more, while the Downeys seem to be a little straighter, so I can see how the Downeys might run a little closer to the floor pan. Does anybody running the Downeys have any problem with them getting the floor or starter too hot?
Also, anybody running one of the Borla stainless systems on the V6? I called them today and they said it is a 2" system, which seems intriguing. I can get a package deal for a decent price from truckperformance.com. I thin a stainless system would definitely be worth it, esp out here in coastal Washington.
Thanks!
NWOR
Downey
I suppose I should just draw the winner from a hat, because I really can't decide. Both companies hate each other and bash each other in their literature, so I am not really that dependant on that. The finish is not so important to me, becasue even if I go with the NWOR offering I think I will have them ceramic coated. I guess my biggest concern is this: the NWOR catalog says "NWOR headers have been designed for maximum clearance between the truck body - "they will not cook your starter motor or burn your carpet" like brand "D" headers." When I look at the pics, it does look like the NWOR headers angle down a little more, while the Downeys seem to be a little straighter, so I can see how the Downeys might run a little closer to the floor pan. Does anybody running the Downeys have any problem with them getting the floor or starter too hot?
Also, anybody running one of the Borla stainless systems on the V6? I called them today and they said it is a 2" system, which seems intriguing. I can get a package deal for a decent price from truckperformance.com. I thin a stainless system would definitely be worth it, esp out here in coastal Washington.
Thanks!
NWOR
Downey
#2
I did some research into these two brands a while ago to see which one to go with. I'm still broke with stock exhaust manifold but that is besides the point. I can give you the links if you are interested. Also are you going to go with the cross over pipe or going to make your own? I have a lift to go on sometime soon and was checking the clearence on the front drive shaft. I assume you have a suspension lift since you are running 35's. Downey told me that their cross over pipe won't work with lifted trucks because of the front driveshaft angle difference. I believe NWOR has a cross over pipe that runs behind the t-case. If that makes your decision any easier. Let us know what you go with and how it works out for you. I know I'm interested.
#3
Stay away from NWOR. No gaskets on a header?? Yeah right.
I have downeys and have had absolutely no problems with them getting too hot, especially since they're ceramic coated. The clearance of the collectors is fine too. I recommend you doing what I did and getting a custom crossover made at a competent exhaust shop to run behind the transfer case. I chose doing that over Downey's crossover and haven't regreted it once.
I have downeys and have had absolutely no problems with them getting too hot, especially since they're ceramic coated. The clearance of the collectors is fine too. I recommend you doing what I did and getting a custom crossover made at a competent exhaust shop to run behind the transfer case. I chose doing that over Downey's crossover and haven't regreted it once.
#5
Originally posted by saigon1965
I have been thinking about adding headers also , just to throw a wrench into all this how about the Edelbrocks ?
I have been thinking about adding headers also , just to throw a wrench into all this how about the Edelbrocks ?
#7
I went with the NWOR header and Y pipe on my 89 v6. It does cross over behind the transfer case. I noticed more power after installing them. I have had mine awhile and they do have gaskets. I've replaced them 3 times. I had them with the Rancho 3.5 inch IFS lift with no problems and now with the Solid Front Axle. They are REALLY close to the front shackle, but shaved the bolt and seem to be fine with no clearance problems of drive shafts etc..
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#8
FWIW, re: blown gaskets, I saw on Trucks that the guy suggested, after installing the headers, run them for a few days, then retorque, run and retorque, run and retorque, and this should compensate for the warping that occurs and help eliminate the blown gasket problem. Has anyone tried this?
#9
I've had NWOR headers on my 3.0 for almost 5 years without any problems. I'm pretty sure the install instructions tell you to coat the flange of the header with high temp form a gasket. I don't have any ceramic coating on mine and the headers still look good.
#10
I took downey over nwor. The biggest reason though is that downey makes the v6 headers with california's strict smog in mind, when I got them about 6 months ago nwor did not have california legal headers. Other than that I think it's a toss up. I have a 4" lift and they fit perfectly. I still haven't had them permantly put on (held on with u bolt brackets)
I think that Downey was also less expensive. It took a long time to get them, so I would check with downey to see if the headers are actually in...and however long they tell you till they'll have them, multiply by two or three and that's when they'll get them and then add a few days for shipping to when you'll have them.
BE Careful of truckperformance.com (TPC) they'll #$% you over. They told me my headers had been sent and lost by UPS before DOWNEY even got them from production. It seemed like maybe they were tryiing to scam UPS or something (at my expense...literally)
The Headers are awesome, no heat issues...my starter is tempermental but thats been that way since I bought my truck..
good luck, headers are great
I think that Downey was also less expensive. It took a long time to get them, so I would check with downey to see if the headers are actually in...and however long they tell you till they'll have them, multiply by two or three and that's when they'll get them and then add a few days for shipping to when you'll have them.
BE Careful of truckperformance.com (TPC) they'll #$% you over. They told me my headers had been sent and lost by UPS before DOWNEY even got them from production. It seemed like maybe they were tryiing to scam UPS or something (at my expense...literally)
The Headers are awesome, no heat issues...my starter is tempermental but thats been that way since I bought my truck..
good luck, headers are great
#12
Originally posted by ksurfer
I think that Downey was also less expensive. It took a long time to get them, so I would check with downey to see if the headers are actually in...
I think that Downey was also less expensive. It took a long time to get them, so I would check with downey to see if the headers are actually in...
Cost wise... TruckPerformance.com sells the ceramics at $341 for the 3.4L auto, including Downey's crossover and collector. $253 for nickel/chrome plated.
#13
Originally posted by scott.475
Hey Chris (churnd), is your x-over welded to the headers as well, or just bolted on?
Hey Chris (churnd), is your x-over welded to the headers as well, or just bolted on?
#15
Originally posted by oly884
So let's say I get a cross over made. How do I get to the shop? Drive with just the headers on?
So let's say I get a cross over made. How do I get to the shop? Drive with just the headers on?
I drove to the shop early one saturday morning. I got plenty of looks from those who were out and about at that time.
I was concerned the 02 sensor was going to screw things up by not being connected to the exhaust, but I didn't have that problem for some reason. Then again, I only drove for about 15 miles. Those were the loudest 15 miles that truck has ever seen.
#20
Scott,
I've got that Borla cat-back. I've had it for two years. It's 2 1/4" (it's too cold to run out a check that fact!) but it's been ok. A bit expensive. It comes with one extra long mid-pipe that you'll have to saw down for your wheelbase -- same as mine (not a "bolt-on" for sure). It did come with an O2 block-off for the extra O2 bung on the mid-pipe but nothing else. Plan on trips to the parts store for gaskets and new bolts. I was disappointed Borla didn't include this cheap stuff.
I did notice some more beans and boomier sound around the neighbourhood so it does do the job well.
I've got that Borla cat-back. I've had it for two years. It's 2 1/4" (it's too cold to run out a check that fact!) but it's been ok. A bit expensive. It comes with one extra long mid-pipe that you'll have to saw down for your wheelbase -- same as mine (not a "bolt-on" for sure). It did come with an O2 block-off for the extra O2 bung on the mid-pipe but nothing else. Plan on trips to the parts store for gaskets and new bolts. I was disappointed Borla didn't include this cheap stuff.
I did notice some more beans and boomier sound around the neighbourhood so it does do the job well.