To any of you that know the 3.slow, what will I need to do an injector rebuild. I've got all to tools so I'm mainly talking about gaskets. I think I will need an intake plenum gasket and possibly fuel rail gaskets but I'm not sure. Can I leave the throttle body attached to the intake plenum when I take them off?

It looks like I'm probably going to go with crusinperformance since they seem to be the cheapest even though the rig will be down for a week.

Any other tips/tricks/info is greatly appreciated.

 

I'm suprised no 3.slow gurrus chimed in. Surely someone here has done the injector rebuild and I know for sure some people here have built their own motors. If you've put a 3.0 together that will also be benificial to me as you need to install the injectors and that's what I'll be doing.

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

Yes you can leave the TB attached to the intake plenum - But go ahead and take it off - the gasket is like 1.00.

You won't need anything for the fuel rail - uses copper gaskets which are reusable.

You will need a complete set of rubber for the injectors - there are 3 for each injector - and then one more O-Ring on the injector insulator. Fram have some of them - the rest are going to come from Yota.

Then when you get those pricey injectors off - I used RC Engineering to test and clean mine - they came back like new - and appear to work like new. $150.00

 

Oh yeah - you if you take off the throttle body - and you have it in your hands - take the opportunity to test and adjust the Throttle position sensor. It takes about 2 minutes off the engine and is basically impossible when it is on the engine.

 

Am i missing something?Are your injectors leaking?Why do they need to be "REBUILT"?I've worked as a technician for 20+years and have yet to be convinced of the need of injector rebuilding/cleaning/replacing unless they are leaking or non-op.I've pulled units with over 100k on them and they look new.

 

Huh? Am I missing something?
The fuel rails have aluminium crush washers between the banjo fittings and no copper crush gaskets installed if you put copper in you will have essentially disimilar metal corrosion.
There are 6 small o ring gasket seals that fit on the top of the injectors those suckers aren't cheap when I did mine I thought they were at least $5-6 a peice also there is a hard rubber peice more like a guide at the bottom that fits into the the plastic peices per injector on the manifold I forgot how much those were they were kinda pricy too.

I am going to send my injectors in when I do them. There are way to many parts to get lost or broken to rebuild a injector. Also the injector rebuild places do flow tests and stuff afterwards. Do you have a machine that can do flow rate tests to verify they are working per spec?

 

Your right they are aluminum but you don't need to replace them. All the rubber does have to be replaced as previously notated.

 

I'll tell you why I'm going to do the injector rebuild. Reasons:
1. I've got a hesitation at @ ~1500rpms after the vehicle has been sitting for about 2-3 hours when it's hot outside.
2. I have a little bit of shake at idle speed and sometimes a small miss.
3. The last time I pulled the plugs two of them were white which means lean which means clogged injector.

Aren't my new injectors supposed to come with o-rings and such for the install? Is there a kit with all the rubber in it that I have to order from Toyota?

Is this going to be that difficult to do? I'm going to have my step-bro who will be a tech for BMW helping me so I think we ought to be able to do this.

Thanks a lot for all the replies.

 

I don't think it will hurt to clean your injectors and replace all the rubber gaskets. But as far as running lean goes, you might make sure and adjust those valves while your at it - and then run a compression check to make sure the valves are seating / sealing properly.

Then assure that your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is adjusted properly and that your VAF tests out.

Also - check your EGR valve for properly function - and with 134k - change out the o2 sensor. Any one of these can make your engine run lean.

Good Luck..

 

I've checked the TPS in the closed position and it checked out fine. I still need to check it in the open position.

O2 sensor has been replaced.

I'll think about checking the valves and a compression check. The motor shake at idle is minimal so I don't think that is the problem (I think I'm just picky). I've talked about the vavles to Lee before when his valves were giving him problems and my symptoms don't sound like his. Plus these vavles use shims to adjust them. I've heard it's best to leave it up to a mechanic to adjust them.

Thanks for the help.

 

A valve that is a little tight won't seal properly - and that will be more evident at idle.

If you already have the intake plenum off and the fuel rail - just take off the valve covers and at least measure the clearance with a feeler guage. At least you can see if you have a tight valve. If they are all within specs, no need to adjust.

If you have to adjust them then it isn't too hard. I just measure all of the valve clearances. Then, If any need to be adjusted - I take off the cam(s), measure the current shim and buy a new shim of the appropriate size. I replace the Cam Seal and valve cover gaskets at the same time.

I use this method since I don't have the squirrely, very expensive toyota tool that is necessary with the cam in-place.

Good Luck

 

The injectors are going to come back with new rubber on them. Will I need an EGR gasket? I'm pretty sure I need the gasket between the upper and lower intake. I'm going to go ahead and buy some crush washers just to have as spares. I was thinking about picking up some spare o-rings since I haven't done this before but I'm not sure yet.

The injectors are on their way as we speak. So hopefully I'll have them back in a couple weeks.

:bounce2:

EDIT: One of the injectors I received had a hard rubber grommet on the bottom of it. It looks like it seals between the injector and the intake. I'm guessing the other grommets stayed in the intake when the injectors were pulled. Does this need to be replaced when I pull the old injectors out or can I reuse it? Does this need to be lubed too or just the o-ring on the top of the injector?

I can get a pic of it if I need to.

Thanks

 

Bump for me because I know someone here can give me a few quick answers.

PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!

:bounce2: