I didn't measure to the fender. I measured from the ground up to the bottom of the rearmost point on the frame rails with the bumper removed. I was strictly looking for a height difference, and this was the most accurate place I could measure to.

Chris

 

Gotcha.

 

Here's some more pics of the 8 wrap LC coils installed and the 95% completed rear bumper:



















Chris

 

I'm headed out the door to install mine. I will have before measurements with the OME 891's, and OME 891's with 200lbs on the hitch haul, LC coils, and then LC coils with 200lbs on the hitch haul.

 

Awesome! Can't wait to see the difference.

Chris

 

Here are the numbers:

Unloaded includes aftermarket rear bumper, cargobox of 3/4" plywood full of tools, cv axles, etc. and a spare 285 tire on the roof.

Loaded includes all the unloaded stuff PLUS an 80 pound 3.5 ton floor jack in the cargo area, and a 60" wide hitch haul with 32 gallons of paint on it (maybe 225 pounds combined for the hitch haul and paint)

Measurements are from the top of the rim to the bottom of the fender well (bottom of black SR5 fender flare)

This is for the LC coils that are 19" long with color code double purple, light blue, white.

OME 891 unloaded 14.75"

OME 891 loaded 13.25"

LC coils unloaded 16.25"

LC coils loaded 14.25"

Remember I measure different from Chris, so our number are not comparable. Chris maybe you could measure from top of rim to fender?

Also, I have a 1" bodylift that is included in those measurements.

So far, I like it. I haven't driven it unloaded yet, I will do that tomorrow and report. The loaded ride is great, but squirrely at higher speeds if you have to do an evasive maneuver-but hey that was for test only.

I will drive it unloaded tomorrow and possibly hook up the camper (350-375 pounds hitch weight) and see how that does. I'm thinking that maybe it will squat less with the camper than with the hitch haul-maybe, even though it is technically more hitch weight? If it squats more with the amper, then I may go back and reinstall the factory cone with the LC coils and maybe an OME trim packer with them too, if all that is possible.

With the LC coils, my rear is about 1-1.25" higher than the front, so I could have possibly run some that were a little longer but not the 21" version that Chris has. When loaded, the rear was about 0.75" lower than the front-my goal is to be level when loaded or towing.

On install, I also believe that the parking brake cable is the limiting factor on the droop-it was mega tight when installing the driver's side. I had to get a spring compressor to install the driver's side spring, while the passengers side slipped right in with no problem. I only removed the wheels, disconnected the swaybar, and unbolted the shocks.

 

That's great info Brett. I can't measure from the rim to the fender well, because my fenders are cut out. It wouldn't be a similar comparison for everyone with stock fenderwells. I'll come up with a solution for the e-brake hopefully next week. It should be a pretty easy fix.

Brett, I would just put the conical spacer on top of your springs, and you'll be 1/8-1/4" lower in the rear when full loaded and be good to go. I definitely don't need the conical spacer for mine, but in your case I think it would get you closer to level when full loaded.

Did you get any pics of the new look? Does the rake look bad when unloaded?

Chris

 

I'll try to get some pics today. I don't think the raked look is bad.

 

Me either! I can't wait to get the Tundra springs in to hopefully have a closer matched front and rear end.

Chris

 

Chris will be posting pics of my 4Runner with the FJ80 springs soon. I'm going to go back and reinstall the top portion of the factory cone and possibly a trim packer for a little more lift b/c it still sits lower than the front when the hitch haul is loaded down.

I also need to figure out a way to relieve some stress on the e-brake cable-maybe a loop out of zip ties. This would replace the hanger that is next to the back upper corner of the gas tank.

 

Here's Brett's pictures. I think adding the conical spacer and possibly a trim packer would be a great idea Brett. It looks great as it is, but adding that extra 1/2-3/4" will get you right where you want to be for riding level with the trailer.

As far as the e-brake, I haven't had a chance to look at it, but I plan to solve the problem this week.

Here's his work truck:












Chris

 

wow, both of yalls trucks look really good! i'm really liking this new OEM tundra/landcruiser lift setup.

 

Garrett, Brett's ride is much cleaner than mine, that's for sure.

Chris

 

Well I cant let the third gens have all the fun.
I installed some 92 FJ80 springs in the rear of my 95Runner today. I had to be very creative to get these things in. I ended up using an 11.95$ spring compressor from Harbor freight and it did the job. That tool was really not happy trying to compress these Land cruiser springs. However we were able to compress them to almost stock size
Before we changed the springs I measured 12" from the top of the rim to the fender lip after the change I was at 16" . I also have a 2" body lift on my rig and prolly about 200lbs in the back of my truck right now.
Here is some pic's my camera doesnt do good night shots so I used an image editor to lighten up the pic some I'll get some better ones after I put my BJ spacer's on. Anyway's No more saggin ass at least on my truck.

 

Sweet pics all around. Now all I have to do is save up the cash to do the lift.

 

Argh. I just went out and hooked up the camper (350-375 lb hitch weight and about 3700 pounds total weight) and measured again. The passengers side was 14.5" and the drivers side was 13.5"-WTF? I guess the full gas tank plays a big part-b/c when I took those measurements last night there was only about 3 gallons in the tank and now it is full.

I'm going out to get some pics and also to tow it down the interstate and see how it does. If it does ok on the interstate then I'll probably add the conical spacers back in and then maybe one trim packer to the drivers side or maybe one on the passenger and two on the drivers (that may be too much).

Wonder if that would be any better than just having the OME 891 with a 1" Cornfed spacer?

I'll take measurements with the camper unhooked and a full tank of gas too

 

Just got back from towing the camper and well it may be a little soft for my tastes while towing. I'm gonna think on it for a while but I may go back to the 891's and add a spacer. The LC coils ride great but I think the fact that the coil wraps are spaced farther apart and are smaller in diameter than the OME's is why they aren't as stable while towing. Of course these same reasons are why the LC coils ride better and flex easier.

Now, do 1" Cornfed spacers give 1" of lift or more?

I think I'll order a trim packer first and put the stock cones back in with one trim packer on the drivers side and see what happens. The cones are worth about 1/2" of lift-correct?

The 10mm trim packers are worth another 1/2" lift-also correct?


Oh the decisions, if I could justify the expense, I would just ship my ride out to 'Zona for Steve's rear leaf conversion.

 

Brett, I'd keep the LC coils for the benefits that they'll offer off-road. Then just add the air shocks that I did, and you'll be good to go when towing. I'd add the conical spacer in there, maybe a trim packer or two on the driver's side, install the air shocks, and you'll be money.

Chris

 

Here's some more pics of Brett's truck hooked up to his camper:













Chris

 

Dragr, you are welcome to come back and swap out for some of the taller coils if you want, I knw it is a logn drive though.