Fuel injectors.....
12-01-2004 | 03:24 PM
#2
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,593
Likes: 6
From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Originally Posted by weezy
Can anyone give me a quick idea of the procedure for replacing the fuel injectors on a 3.0? Pics would be great cause this girl is visual.
12-02-2004 | 09:21 AM
#6
Contributing Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,593
Likes: 6
From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Originally Posted by leebee
hey eric!
do you know the link for downloading the fsm? it was posted on here the other day and i cant find it for the life of me. thanks.
lee
do you know the link for downloading the fsm? it was posted on here the other day and i cant find it for the life of me. thanks.
lee
12-02-2004 | 05:03 PM
#7
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,424
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From: The Lone Star State
Ok I'll give my quick input on replacing injectors on the 3.0. For someone who has never done any motor work (like myself), it isn't the easiest job but it wasn't all that hard. I could do it much faster now the 2nd time around if need be. It took me 7 hours to do but I ran into some problems with my injectors so that was probably an extra couple hours. Just make sure you take pics of the vacuum lines and remember where they go. Also be prepared to fix any broken linest that you find. One hard vacuum line is the big one that goes to the reed valve. It was a biotch and wouldn't come off until we lifted the intake plenum and pulled. Also the coolant line that comes out the back side of the TB is a PITA to get off unless you have some pliers that are like needle-nose pliers but wider. I've never seen any pliers like that and don't have any so that too had to be disconnected once we started pulling the intake plenum off. Also you may want to replace that hose clamp on that coolant line with a screw type one for easier removal the next time around. You can pull the intake plenum without pulling the EGR valve but I recommend that you pull it out as I had HUGE chunks of carbon all over it and in the intake plenum that I had to blow out with the air hose.
Also be sure you have a new intake plenum gasket. I would also advise you do the PCV valve and grommet while the intake plenum is off. You should get an extra valve cover gasket just in case the grommet brakes into pieces and falls into the valve cover. The whole top of mine crack off when we tried to remove it. A few small pieces broke off but we were able to get them out without having to pull the valve cover.
When you put it back together, don't forget to attach the vacuum line that is right on the underside (and out of sight) of some other vacuum lines that run back to the TB and by the EGR modulator (you'll see what I mean when you get to it). Leaving this unattached will make it run like crap and sound like you have an exhaust leak coming from that side of the motor.
Make sure you keep some spare injector o-rings just in case you tear one. Also depending on who rebuilds the injectors, I had a problem with the spacer that goes between the injector and the fuel rail. It was too soft and wouldn't support the 9 lbs of torque on the fuel rail nuts. I had to replace them with my old spacers and luckily it worked. It's been suggested on this board to use corn oil (if I remember right) to put the injectors into the fuel rails. I just used a corn and manzola blend from my pantry without any problems.
When I did the initial start-up, it ran that crap for about 10 minutes until all the carbon was blown out of the intake and oil out of the injectors. After that it ran like a champ.
That's really all I can think of. Other than that, with a manual it is pretty straight forward. I used a Haynes manual without any problems.
If you have any other questions, just ask as this install is still very fresh in my mind. But right now I'm going to sleep because school has got me running on almost no rest due to finals.
:bounce2:
Also be sure you have a new intake plenum gasket. I would also advise you do the PCV valve and grommet while the intake plenum is off. You should get an extra valve cover gasket just in case the grommet brakes into pieces and falls into the valve cover. The whole top of mine crack off when we tried to remove it. A few small pieces broke off but we were able to get them out without having to pull the valve cover.
When you put it back together, don't forget to attach the vacuum line that is right on the underside (and out of sight) of some other vacuum lines that run back to the TB and by the EGR modulator (you'll see what I mean when you get to it). Leaving this unattached will make it run like crap and sound like you have an exhaust leak coming from that side of the motor.
Make sure you keep some spare injector o-rings just in case you tear one. Also depending on who rebuilds the injectors, I had a problem with the spacer that goes between the injector and the fuel rail. It was too soft and wouldn't support the 9 lbs of torque on the fuel rail nuts. I had to replace them with my old spacers and luckily it worked. It's been suggested on this board to use corn oil (if I remember right) to put the injectors into the fuel rails. I just used a corn and manzola blend from my pantry without any problems.
When I did the initial start-up, it ran that crap for about 10 minutes until all the carbon was blown out of the intake and oil out of the injectors. After that it ran like a champ.
That's really all I can think of. Other than that, with a manual it is pretty straight forward. I used a Haynes manual without any problems.
If you have any other questions, just ask as this install is still very fresh in my mind. But right now I'm going to sleep because school has got me running on almost no rest due to finals.
:bounce2:
Last edited by AgRunner06; 12-02-2004 at 05:06 PM.
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01-13-2006 | 05:00 AM
#9
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 8,807
Likes: 3
From: Montreal, QC Canada
It is all in here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...90injector.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...90injector.pdf
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