Front Brake Pad replacement
#1
Front Brake Pad replacement
Okay, I did a quick search on this and didn't find what I'm looking for so...
I'm about to change my front brake pads. I got them in today but they did not come with the Anti-Squeal shims like they did when I ordered pads for my eclipse and for my girlfriends accord. Guess Toyota doesn't do that. So I went to my local dealer and they told me it was $45 for a set of Anti-squeal shims for my front brake pads. Is that right? Those thin pieces of metal really cost that much? I have the factory repair manuals and they say they should be replaced a long with the pads. . . Can anyone help me out ? Do I really need to go and order (they don't have any in stock) the front shims?
I'm about to change my front brake pads. I got them in today but they did not come with the Anti-Squeal shims like they did when I ordered pads for my eclipse and for my girlfriends accord. Guess Toyota doesn't do that. So I went to my local dealer and they told me it was $45 for a set of Anti-squeal shims for my front brake pads. Is that right? Those thin pieces of metal really cost that much? I have the factory repair manuals and they say they should be replaced a long with the pads. . . Can anyone help me out ? Do I really need to go and order (they don't have any in stock) the front shims?
#2
Registered User
In short yea they cost 50 damn bucks. Do your old pads have the shims on them, if they do just reuse them. I had to buy shims b/c my used T100 didnt have any, just use some antisqueal spray or the provided goop they give you and all will be fine.
I am sure napa sells them though.
I am sure napa sells them though.
#7
Thanks everyone, I just finished changing them. Used brake cleaner to clean off the shims and applied grease to the inner shim. Everything seems to be working fine.
Now one more question. My pedal goes down a lot further now before the brakes perform the same that they used to. Does that mean I need to bleed the lines or will it take a few miles before it goes back to normal? Or does it get firmer as the pads wear?
Now one more question. My pedal goes down a lot further now before the brakes perform the same that they used to. Does that mean I need to bleed the lines or will it take a few miles before it goes back to normal? Or does it get firmer as the pads wear?
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#8
Wait, you didn't bleed the brakes? Yes, absolutely bleed them. If you use the pedal method, be sure to put a wood block under the brake pedal to keep from over-extending the MC piston.
#11
Registered User
The proper order for bleeding the system is to start with the longest hydraulic line and work around the vehicle to the shortest line, and then do the LSPV last.
So in this case, the order is: driver's rear wheel, passenger rear wheel, passenger front, driver's front, LSPV.
Thats how I did mine a week ago and it works fine. More info: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...leedingbrakes/
So in this case, the order is: driver's rear wheel, passenger rear wheel, passenger front, driver's front, LSPV.
Thats how I did mine a week ago and it works fine. More info: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...leedingbrakes/
#13
Registered User
No problem Eric, I scoured thenet for good info before I even did my pads about a week ago. To me I feel I have a spongy pedal, but I was driving for 3 months (SOOO busy) with a pull that I may have not even noticed it.
I used apower bleeder I got at sears for about 35 bucks. Not cheap but it has alot of other uses. A buddy, coffee can and clear tubing also works.
Oh and if you dont add fluid after each line you bleed you will wind up with the parking brake light coming on-your low on fluid. I also did the parking brake adjustment just incase after I did the whole thing as well.
I used apower bleeder I got at sears for about 35 bucks. Not cheap but it has alot of other uses. A buddy, coffee can and clear tubing also works.
Oh and if you dont add fluid after each line you bleed you will wind up with the parking brake light coming on-your low on fluid. I also did the parking brake adjustment just incase after I did the whole thing as well.
#16
Registered User
Now I could be wrong, but a friend of mine and I did his subaru legacy some time back, his pads and rotors were shot and as a result when we put all new aprts on his pedal was to the floor as the brakes never adjusted proplerly when we installed all the new parts. Bleeding it cured the problem.
@Christian-Oh I know but some of the other vehicles do.
#17
Griffeycom, you need to go easy on the brakes for the first 100 miles. Normal heat allows the glues in the pad to bond it correctly. If you do panic stops and overheat them, the glues in the pad will turn to gas and end up glazing the pad.
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N.Seattle
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Is'nt the main thing to open the bleed nipple when you spread the caliper to make room for the new pads....so you don't force dirty fluid back up into the master cyl ?
#20
Registered User
If this was the case and irty fluid could goback (its sealed so how could the fluid get dirty other than get water in it?) then the 100 or so brake jobs I have done in my life were all wrong.