Frikkin Eng. ping.
#1
Frikkin Eng. ping.
Why is it that my engine pings no matter what with regular, off and on with midgrade and depending on where I get supreme I get that pinging in the engine? I have gone to Chevron and gotten supreme and added that Techron additive and it will go away but the next fill up it pings if I get supreme again. Im confused!
#3
I just put a new timing belt on and it was perfect. Today I went and got a bottle of vavoline fuel system cleaner and then topped off the tank with mid grade. The noise is gone. I am thinking its in the kind of fuel I get. I was also told I should adjust the valves.
#4
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BigBadBlue
I was also told I should adjust the valves.
I was also told I should adjust the valves.
#5
Thats what its here for, steal it take it away from me. JK No I wanted to hear if I was being wierd or if other guys deal with this annoying noise. Have you tried the additive and better fuel like I did?
#6
Originally posted by BigBadBlue
I just put a new timing belt on and it was perfect.
I just put a new timing belt on and it was perfect.
New timing belt = ping.
Who did the install? Did they use a timing light with the engine at full operating temp and no accessories turned on?
#7
Originally posted by <96 Runner>
Old timing belt = no ping.
New timing belt = ping.
Who did the install? Did they use a timing light with the engine at full operating temp and no accessories turned on?
Old timing belt = no ping.
New timing belt = ping.
Who did the install? Did they use a timing light with the engine at full operating temp and no accessories turned on?
Dr. Z
Trending Topics
#8
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BigBadBlue
Thats what its here for, steal it take it away from me. JK No I wanted to hear if I was being wierd or if other guys deal with this annoying noise. Have you tried the additive and better fuel like I did?
Thats what its here for, steal it take it away from me. JK No I wanted to hear if I was being wierd or if other guys deal with this annoying noise. Have you tried the additive and better fuel like I did?
#9
Originally posted by keisur
Yea, that is something I am wondering about, anybody know if 100k on my 1998 would it be a good idea to do this? And is it a home garage type of job, I have pretty good engine knowledge and I'm not afraid to give it a whirl, I just don't want to pay an arm and a leg or leave my vehicle at a the stealership or a shop for a day or so. Anybody? Not trying to jack your thread, just figured this would be a good place to ask this as it might benefit us both.
Yea, that is something I am wondering about, anybody know if 100k on my 1998 would it be a good idea to do this? And is it a home garage type of job, I have pretty good engine knowledge and I'm not afraid to give it a whirl, I just don't want to pay an arm and a leg or leave my vehicle at a the stealership or a shop for a day or so. Anybody? Not trying to jack your thread, just figured this would be a good place to ask this as it might benefit us both.
Here's a page that details how to do all of this.
Hope this helps.
Dr. Z
#10
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Dr. Zhivago
You'll need a special valve lifter tool, a micrometer and shims of the required thickness to adjust the valve clearances. It's a failry involved process and will require purchasing Shims from the dealer after you measure the valve clearances and calculate the thickness of the Shims needed to put the valves back to spec. A good shop manual details the procedure. It can be done by the home mechanic, but you'll need a good selection of tools, time and LOTS of patience.
Here's a page that details how to do all of this.
Hope this helps.
Dr. Z
You'll need a special valve lifter tool, a micrometer and shims of the required thickness to adjust the valve clearances. It's a failry involved process and will require purchasing Shims from the dealer after you measure the valve clearances and calculate the thickness of the Shims needed to put the valves back to spec. A good shop manual details the procedure. It can be done by the home mechanic, but you'll need a good selection of tools, time and LOTS of patience.
Here's a page that details how to do all of this.
Hope this helps.
Dr. Z
Last edited by keisur; 07-02-2003 at 01:20 PM.
#11
Originally posted by keisur
Thanks, Z-man. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this procedure, and at what mileage it is recommended for the 5VZ-FE engine?
Thanks, Z-man. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this procedure, and at what mileage it is recommended for the 5VZ-FE engine?
#12
Originally posted by keisur
Thanks, Z-man. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this procedure, and at what mileage it is recommended for the 5VZ-FE engine?
Thanks, Z-man. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this procedure, and at what mileage it is recommended for the 5VZ-FE engine?
Peace!
Dr. Z
Oh, and you're welcome.
#14
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by <96 Runner>
Crap. Something else to add to my list!
Crap. Something else to add to my list!
Ok. Anybody know an average cost of the shims, I guess each and it probably depends on the size? this way I can calculate about when I need to take a couple days off work to spend in the garage turning "reenches."
Thanks dr. Z for the insite.
#15
Contributing Member
Re: Frikkin Eng. ping.
Originally posted by BigBadBlue
Why is it that my engine pings no matter what with regular, off and on with midgrade and depending on where I get supreme I get that pinging in the engine?
Why is it that my engine pings no matter what with regular, off and on with midgrade and depending on where I get supreme I get that pinging in the engine?
#16
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by <96 Runner>
I dont think a valve adj is ever recommended for the 5VZ. I know on Honda's its a suggested "inspect" around 60K miles - but on those its a breeze to adjust them.
I dont think a valve adj is ever recommended for the 5VZ. I know on Honda's its a suggested "inspect" around 60K miles - but on those its a breeze to adjust them.
#17
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Southern MD USA
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
...I had to adjust the valves on mine at only 40,000 miles. Interesting don't you think?
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
#18
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Gadget
...I had to adjust the valves on mine at only 40,000 miles. Interesting don't you think?
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
...I had to adjust the valves on mine at only 40,000 miles. Interesting don't you think?
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
#19
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Southern MD USA
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, that was before the supercharger.
So, you would put more trust in a group of people that insists that you can fix a bent wheel by putting 17 new tires on it?
There are two basic inspection methods for checking the valve adjustment. First is periodic inspection that is outlined in the vehicle preventitive maintenance schedule. It is the second book that comes with your owner's manual. You know the one that you have to doccument your scheduled maintenance in to preserve your warranty. That is inspection is simply to listen for ticking and checking for a rough idle.
A better test is to physically check the valve lash with a feeler gauge to see if it is still in spec. The checking part is pretty easy. If the lash is out of spec then replacing the shims with the proper size is substantially more involved and the dealership folks will do anything to not have to do it, even if it involves misleading customers at the risk of engine damage.
Listen to them if you want, it is your truck, you decide.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
So, you would put more trust in a group of people that insists that you can fix a bent wheel by putting 17 new tires on it?
There are two basic inspection methods for checking the valve adjustment. First is periodic inspection that is outlined in the vehicle preventitive maintenance schedule. It is the second book that comes with your owner's manual. You know the one that you have to doccument your scheduled maintenance in to preserve your warranty. That is inspection is simply to listen for ticking and checking for a rough idle.
A better test is to physically check the valve lash with a feeler gauge to see if it is still in spec. The checking part is pretty easy. If the lash is out of spec then replacing the shims with the proper size is substantially more involved and the dealership folks will do anything to not have to do it, even if it involves misleading customers at the risk of engine damage.
Listen to them if you want, it is your truck, you decide.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
#20
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Southern MD USA
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Frikkin Eng. ping.
Originally posted by BigBadBlue
Why is it that my engine pings no matter what with regular, off and on with midgrade and depending on where I get supreme I get that pinging in the engine? I have gone to Chevron and gotten supreme and added that Techron additive and it will go away but the next fill up it pings if I get supreme again. Im confused!
Why is it that my engine pings no matter what with regular, off and on with midgrade and depending on where I get supreme I get that pinging in the engine? I have gone to Chevron and gotten supreme and added that Techron additive and it will go away but the next fill up it pings if I get supreme again. Im confused!
If you do not get proper flow in the EGR system you will get ping. If this is the problem it will normall present in cruise and moderate acceleration and it should go away at full throttle. If that is what you have and you have an EGR system suspect the EGR system.
BG Products has a very nice service for cleaning the entire EGR system. The hard part is finding a shop that preforms it.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com