'97 4Runner, V6, 180k,

Issue: Cold starts. I crank the engine for about 10 sec at a time, roughly three times, press the gas half way down and she will finally start. Blue smoke, stronger than usual exhaust smell.

Test Performed - Compression - 178-183 on all cylinders. Replaced sparks and wires in october had no issues since. New K&N filter, MAF appears to be clean and working fine. Cleaned all fuel injectors, replaced one (separate issue but completed at time of sparks and wire change). Replaced PCV Valve.

Kicker - Used Bosch plugs before I found out they are crap for 4Runners. Replacing those tonight with NKG however, that shouldnt have an effect on why my plugs are oily and fouling. Plugs arent sooty but oily.

Thoughts help.

 

I would lean towards your valve seals being worn needing replaced due to compression factors!

 

Well, if your plugs are the wrong heat range, i.e. not hot enough--that can cause fouling. I'd try the correct NGK or Denso plugs and see where you are. Otherwise you run the risk of fixing what ain't broke. Any chance you over-oiled that K&N filter? Those things can kill MAF sensors that way, too. Personally, I would not have one on my truck.

eddieleephd--Why? FSM spec on 5VZ-FE is minimum 174psi and difference high to low not to exceed 15psi. Am I missing something?

 

I am sure you guys are getting sick about reading about my problems and I am getting tired of writing about them too.

I pulled the K&N right out of the box and put it in. And that was only the other day cause my air fliter was way too old and dirty so I just did it anyway. The guy at the parts store suggested blow by too but I cant see how that is a problem with my compression right on the money. Lets hope it is the spark. I didnt get to them last night but will tonight.

Thanks again for the help. I will update you on what the final fix is. Or the next problem.

 

Someone mentioned coolant temperature sensor as well. Anybody have an issue with these?

 

Yes make sure you are running the correct heat range in whatever plug you're using. If it's an NGK the heat range is a 5. Bosch is an 8. Check this out for reference:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1272596

 

the reason I said valve seals is that the compression has to do with the valve seats and the rings.. however the oil can run through the valve seals down the valves and in to the cylinder causing the same issue, what is the spark plug that you are running please give the whole number and manufacturer...

NO BOSCH!!!!!!! NGK OR DENSO DUAL GROUND!!!

 

OK, yes, sorry, I totally misunderstood your post. We do agree on getting the right plugs in there and what they should be, and I agree with your point that valve seals are likely culprits given that his compression is fine.

 

Heat range is right for the Bosch PlatinumIR Fusion Spark Plug FGR8DQI .

Plugs going in tonight are the NGK BKR5EKB-11.

 

BKR5EKPB-11 these are the platnum dual ground specified for our trucks with natural aspiration!!!

Those Bosch plugs are horrid for our trucks and I do not know if just changing the plugs is going to fix the issue however I do believe that they will be beneficial!!
You will need to pull these plugs in between 500mi and 1000mi just to do a visual inspection and see if they are still fouling this should tell you if you will need to replace the valve seals....

Also beings you pulled the KN out of the box and threw it in this be a contributing factor as to what the issue is, they usually come over oiled and this will dirty your maf so after like 150mi or so you should pull the maf and clean for best results... as well it could travel all the way in to the cyl even though most of it will end up in the down tube for oil and water on the intake tube...


when you go and re-oil this you should only spray the oil lightly on the side that is facing the front of the truck as it will be sucked to the other side and be less likely to" foul the sensor, causing lessened fuel mileage..."

I believe that if the oil coming by the valve seals is light enough that the new NGK BKR5EKB-11. will be able to burn the oil off before it becomes an issue!

and if not just plan on doing a valve job where you get the valves reseated and new seals for optimal performance and better compression that will take care of any oil getting in the cyl other than from the KN....

 

Great response! Thanks. So I am pissed cause at my apartment the code punch for the garage is now dead this morning and I have to wait for the maintenance to come replace my battery and reset the code. I guess they all go a default. So luckily I was able to take my wifes rig and mine is taking a break in the garage.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...roject-202499/
look at this thread as well

 

Ditch that K&N filter if you don't eventually you will end up with the P0171 code and have to replace your MAF sensor. You will save yourself a lot of headache if you just go with the stock Toyota air filter.

I had a K&N in for the last 2 years and it has caused me nothing but trouble. I blew through 2 MAF sensors before I finally smartened up and got rid of the damn thing.

 

The K&N is fine you just have to not over oil it and clean your maf about 150mi after re-oiling it, agood maf cleaner is needed though! I have been running mine for about 60,000mi and no issues other than over oiling and cleaning maf...