finally drove a 4runner
#21
Not sure where in ontario you are but you might also consider going down to the US and importing one back up to Canada. Right now those trucks are going for alot less than you'd think down south and the entire importation process isn't that bad (I've done it a few times on different vehicles now). Failing in that I'd definately go for the rust free truck over the other one. The only thing that will kill a 4Runner is rust so finding one without will do you in good stead.
#22
i'm in ottawa, and i don't even want to travel as far as Toronto to get a vehicle. Just seems like too much of a hassle for a car. If it were something special like a ferrari, or a lambo then yea. I see you're in MTL, how are the prices in your area?? they're pretty bad in ottawa.;
#23
Second one sounds much better.
And I know all about the "sluggishness" feeling of going from a 430 hp Supra to a 4Runner. Remember, the TRD supercharger would help alleviate the power "problem."
Good luck in your purchase; you'll really be happy in a 4Runner.
Ken
And I know all about the "sluggishness" feeling of going from a 430 hp Supra to a 4Runner. Remember, the TRD supercharger would help alleviate the power "problem."
Good luck in your purchase; you'll really be happy in a 4Runner.
Ken
#24
Good old Tony Graham. That is a little high for a runner that has that kind of rust. The rust actually should be under warranty. For that price it should be repaired for you. I had my runner there for two years and the rust went crazy. The runner never even saw snow for the first 13 years of its life. I'd look around and see what else you can find. If you can find one from around Toronto or somewhere around that part of the country you'll be better off cause they don't use half the salt they do up north. I'll be back in Ottawa before christmas, to get my stuff and put it on a moving truck. If you feel like meeting up for a beer at the Royal Oak or something let me know.
Last edited by Babypig; 11-15-2006 at 04:27 PM.
#25
I wish I would of held out for an e-locker. I wouldn't buy a car with rust, especially less than 10 years old. If there's rust in one spot, there's going to be more in others. I've already done the rust route, NO THANKS!
#27
Hi Derk,
Just for some reference, I did a search on wholesale prices in your area (I own a dealership in California). .you weren't kidding, they really aren't moving alot of 4runners up there. Two 2000 models have sold in the last month, one for CA$10,600 (88K miles, SR5, AT, 3.4LV6, 4x4) and one for CA$9000 (200K miles, SR5, AT, 3.4LV6, 4x4). Searching 1997-2002 for a little more play in the numbers, I got a 1999 (70K miles, AT, Ltd, 3.4LV6, 4x4) for CA$15,300, a 2002 (103K miles, SR5 w/ leather and roof, AT, 3.6LV6, 4x4) for CA$22,100. Also 4 or 5 1997s with high miles from CA$3000-6000.
The numbers are kindof all over the place up there, and I don't know anything about the vehicles conditions so beware of the prices that seem ridiculously low. Still, this might offer some perspective on what the car is actually worth to the dealer (the one you saw may be a trade-in, but dealerships typically won't pay out more for a trade than they can pick them up for at auction).
The rule with us car dealers? Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate. Go in an hour before close, and talk the guy down until they're ready to turn the lights out and go home. This time of year is great for buying cars - most everyone else is out buying, well, everything BUT cars. Dealers lots are empty, so he just might be willing to let this one go for cheap. Tell him you know they're selling for $10-12K (I'm adjusting for the lower mileage on the car you're looking at) at ADESA wholesale auctions, and you're willing to pay $2000 over wholesale. It just *MIGHT* work. . .
Good luck! And don't be moved by her beauty - its the guts that really count.
Just for some reference, I did a search on wholesale prices in your area (I own a dealership in California). .you weren't kidding, they really aren't moving alot of 4runners up there. Two 2000 models have sold in the last month, one for CA$10,600 (88K miles, SR5, AT, 3.4LV6, 4x4) and one for CA$9000 (200K miles, SR5, AT, 3.4LV6, 4x4). Searching 1997-2002 for a little more play in the numbers, I got a 1999 (70K miles, AT, Ltd, 3.4LV6, 4x4) for CA$15,300, a 2002 (103K miles, SR5 w/ leather and roof, AT, 3.6LV6, 4x4) for CA$22,100. Also 4 or 5 1997s with high miles from CA$3000-6000.
The numbers are kindof all over the place up there, and I don't know anything about the vehicles conditions so beware of the prices that seem ridiculously low. Still, this might offer some perspective on what the car is actually worth to the dealer (the one you saw may be a trade-in, but dealerships typically won't pay out more for a trade than they can pick them up for at auction).
The rule with us car dealers? Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate. Go in an hour before close, and talk the guy down until they're ready to turn the lights out and go home. This time of year is great for buying cars - most everyone else is out buying, well, everything BUT cars. Dealers lots are empty, so he just might be willing to let this one go for cheap. Tell him you know they're selling for $10-12K (I'm adjusting for the lower mileage on the car you're looking at) at ADESA wholesale auctions, and you're willing to pay $2000 over wholesale. It just *MIGHT* work. . .
Good luck! And don't be moved by her beauty - its the guts that really count.
#28
^ wow thanks a lot for that insight! really appreciate it. And yes, the price flucuations are very weird in my area.
I already tried negotiating with the man, but he ain't budging. Can you actually see all the sales from each individual dealership here??? to be specific i'm from Ottawa, Ontario.
I'm starting to look at ones with a bit more meilage and i found another.....
2000, green, roof rack , sunroof, leather, fully loaded, 16" rims, 80 625 MILES, $12 000 USD. I might look at this one and see. Only think i'm weary about is that it's a small dealer which i always have a bad feeling in my gut. Especially around here.
http://www.trader.ca/powerpage/detai...0&adid=5668353
I already tried negotiating with the man, but he ain't budging. Can you actually see all the sales from each individual dealership here??? to be specific i'm from Ottawa, Ontario.
I'm starting to look at ones with a bit more meilage and i found another.....
2000, green, roof rack , sunroof, leather, fully loaded, 16" rims, 80 625 MILES, $12 000 USD. I might look at this one and see. Only think i'm weary about is that it's a small dealer which i always have a bad feeling in my gut. Especially around here.
http://www.trader.ca/powerpage/detai...0&adid=5668353
#30
Hey now, I'm a small dealer! But, fair enough, we ain't all got scruples. . . This one looks nice - the price is reasonable. Those numbers I gave you before are wholesale prices - the price the dealers paid at dealer-only auction. I just wanted to give you a sense for their profit margin - it helps alot. It's the used car equivalent of a "dealer invoice."
I totally understand your feelings about small independent dealerships vs. larger franchise dealerships, but for what its worth, the same laws protect you in both cases (at least here in the states). My suggestion is to spend some time with each car. Let me know if you need any advice on what to look for when inspecting a used car (though I'll bet others on this forum could run circles around my advice!). Run the VINs through carfax.com or a similar service (many think these have little or no value, but my experience is that their data is getting better and more complete - again, at least here in the states).
Also, this is going to sound SO cheesy and lame. . . .but send the salesguy away and sit in the cars alone for a minute. When you've found the right one, you'll feel it. Then again, this is coming from a girl who develops intimate relationships with her cars. . .
Best of luck!
I totally understand your feelings about small independent dealerships vs. larger franchise dealerships, but for what its worth, the same laws protect you in both cases (at least here in the states). My suggestion is to spend some time with each car. Let me know if you need any advice on what to look for when inspecting a used car (though I'll bet others on this forum could run circles around my advice!). Run the VINs through carfax.com or a similar service (many think these have little or no value, but my experience is that their data is getting better and more complete - again, at least here in the states).
Also, this is going to sound SO cheesy and lame. . . .but send the salesguy away and sit in the cars alone for a minute. When you've found the right one, you'll feel it. Then again, this is coming from a girl who develops intimate relationships with her cars. . .
Best of luck!
#32
Derk,
I picked up a 99, 3.4, 5 speed two years ago at the Toronto Auto Auction (I have a dealer friend), for 10 500 plus tax. The truck had 195 000 km on it, and no rush on the body, a wee bit of surface rust on the frame. It you spend some time, you should be able to find a better deal then what you have presented so far. In the very least, if you are going to pay near top dollar, buy a truck that has been oiled every year and isn't showing any rust.
If you do decide to take a look at trucks in the US and want a cheap way of getting it home, let me know. I travel NY, PA and VA all the time and would be willing to work something out with you to fly down and drive your new ride home.... but beware, I may have to test it out somewhere between there and here!!
Good luck with your hunt.
I picked up a 99, 3.4, 5 speed two years ago at the Toronto Auto Auction (I have a dealer friend), for 10 500 plus tax. The truck had 195 000 km on it, and no rush on the body, a wee bit of surface rust on the frame. It you spend some time, you should be able to find a better deal then what you have presented so far. In the very least, if you are going to pay near top dollar, buy a truck that has been oiled every year and isn't showing any rust.
If you do decide to take a look at trucks in the US and want a cheap way of getting it home, let me know. I travel NY, PA and VA all the time and would be willing to work something out with you to fly down and drive your new ride home.... but beware, I may have to test it out somewhere between there and here!!
Good luck with your hunt.
#33
I dunno. I think I'd still go for the one that's rust free, unless they can replace the entire affected panel and repaint it, AND the rest of the truck is rust free. Or take your time and wait for the right truck to go on sale. Even done right, rust repairs don't last that long usually. You shouldn't have perforation on a vehicle only 6 years old, even on our salty Canadian roads. I'm picking up a '96 in a couple days which has 283,000 km on its odo and still no rust anywhere. Don't get too hung up on mileage numbers; I've seen plently of 200,000+ km vehicles that were in better shape than vehicles with half the mileage. You're better off finding something that has been babied by its owner. Just my 2 cents worth, having owned many used vehicles over the years. And I usually prefer buying from a private owner VS dealership; you can almost always get a feel for the owner and how they've looked after their vehicle.
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