i did the upgrade a couple weeks ago, with the big 231mm 13WL calipers and they clear the stock 5 spoke rims with no modifications. the dust shield did however need some trimming but it was easy. and wow did it turn out awesome. brake pedal is sooo firm i love it.

 

Finished my 231mm upgrade on my 2000 4runner about a week ago, and got to test them by hauling ass down the pikes peak highway after the hillclimb last Sunday. In the past, I had a 4runner on 285/65/16's with brembo cross-drilled and slotted rotors and some premium pads. After coming from 14,000 to 6,000 ft in less than an hour the brakes would be smoking and smelling, the rims would get so hot that you couldn't touch them, and I once boiled the fluid causing the pedal to drop to the floor. Very scary.

I now run 315/75/16's and have lots of armor and extras. I finished the brake upgrade right before the race, and was very happy that I did. On the way down you usually get stuck in traffic, which gave me an opportunity to check the brakes. They were absolutely cool to the touch, so I decided to push them a bit harder. After clearing the traffic I began getting more and more aggressive and REALLY laid into the brakes near the end, harder than I ever did with the old setup. They were perfectly smooth and never heated up, the rim was cool enough to hold your hand on indefinitely. I just went with the slotted rotors for these since every set of drilled rotors I've had (including brembos) have cracked after about a year. I couldn't be happier with the upgrade, Ive always had enough braking power to lock up the tires, but the rotors were always warping.

By the way, I run the stock rims on 1" wheelspacers (to clear the a-arms w/ the bigger tires) and had no issues with clearance, in fact I have at least 5/8" of clearance in the tightest spots. I also reused the stock caliper bolts. Total price for pads rotors and semi loaded calipers was around 300 through partstrain.com and rockauto.com.

For those that want the 231mm calipers just order the parts for a 2004-06 tundra because that's when Toyota started equipping all the trucks with the larger calipers.

 

Good info!

found that out the hardway about the 04+ Tundras. Sent the wrong calipers to a customer, and ended up getting him some from Idaho. Doh!

 

I've used the Tundra rotors with the 13WLs for more than a year. No warpage. Visit my story about the install on off-road.com - just hit the Toyota section.

Lots of folks warp their junk because they keep their foot on the pedal after a big stop and it bakes the rotor between the pads. Always try to stop a little sooner than you have to, then let the truck roll a little to cool them things. You can warp anything - I've done it, because I used to be a test-driver for Raybestos - if you don't have good brake manners and you don't take care to treat them right.

STICK to the OEM stuff

PS> The 16" split-three spokes will work if you grind the wheel. Don't put a grinder on the caliper - the metal's too thin to permit mistakes, and there's a lot of pressure in the bypasses.

 

The biggest reason for warped rotors on 3gen 4runners is out of adjustment rear brakes. The "auto" adjusters never seen to work and because of that it leaves the rear brakes greatly reduced. The irony is that the rear brakes are ultra easy to adjust, just jack up the rear and start clicking away with a brake spoon.


FOG

 

I learn something new here every day. Thank you, wasted cat.

STICK

PS> What the Hell is a brake spoon?

 

Curious, what is a brake spoon, thats a new one to me.

 

I also have the 231mm 13WL and they are great! With out a doubt one of the best upgrades. Here is a pretty good thread and it has pics of my work with the upgrade https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/b...l#post51481599 . Went with the dimpled and slotted EBC rotors and some 7000 EBC green stuff pads.

 

A brake spoon is basically just a special screw driver that's bent to make it easier to adjust the brakes.

 

How would I employ the brake spoon on the back of the drum? Is there a port? I'll admit that I've never even looked back there...

STICK

 

Thank you for bringing a bit of truth to this thread. You people are killing me with this warp talk though. THE ROTORS ARE NOT WARPING. Please read this http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

It's the same link, I just spread it like buckshot to make sure I hit you. just click one of them to stop the spread of misinformation.

 

The term he used may be different then most of us have ever heard, (first time for me too) but he is referring to a brake adjusting tool. Looks alot like a small pry bar. You use it adjust the adjustment multi-tooth wheel tha will spread the shoe adjuster pushing the brake shoesout or in depending on which way you click the adjusting wheel.

 

On the backside of the rear brakes near were the brake line runs into the drum is a little rectangular window with a rubber plug it in. Behind that rubber plug is a adjuster wheel that the pushes the brake shoes out.

The way to adjust it properly is to put wheel chocks on the front wheels and jack up the rear end. Put the transmission in neutral and start spinning a tire by hand. As your spinning the tire start using the brake spoon to spin the adjuster wheel one to two clicks at a time. Keep doing this till you feel a very slight drag on the wheel. Once you feel the slight drag, stop and put the plug back in and move to the other axle.

One thing you will notice as soon as your done is the park brake handle will only come up 2-3 clicks as opposed to the 5+ clicks when the rear brakes are out of adjustment.

Now take it for a test drive and you will be very surprised at how much better it stops when the rear brakes are actually working


FOG

 

To the StopTech article, I understand why there could be no acutal "warping" due to left over brake pad compound leaving deposits and in turn hot spots which cause the uneven braking surface and thus the chatter during braking. I've seen plenty of that on flywheels (ever drive a car in the morning with a cold chattery clutch? in no way is that flywheel hot enogh to warp, or ever will be). The thing that gets me is I have driven my Runner over 100k and never changed the front pads, I don't even know how much the pads were driven on before I owned the vehicle. I have pretty bad chatter once the disk heats up, but only once its really heated up. I can't see it leaving any deposits as the pads are hardly worn! I think i have at least another 30k in them still! And the hot spots in the picture on the StopTech website looks nothing like my rotors, yet they still vibrate.

Getting your rotors resurfaced has been a practice for a very long time. It's really good to do with a set of new pads, and in ways you are eliminating those hot spots as they are cut away (just like getting a flywheel resurfaced).

 

I'm running 13WL calipers, brembo blanks, and EBC Greenstuff 6000 series pads. My rear brakes also need adjustment but I have yet to get my lazy ass up and buy a brake spoon

I must say, since my 4Runner came stock with 15" wheels, the brakes before sucked almighty nuts with 32" tires. The new brakes, same thing, not a single issue. They're beasts, these, even without the rear brakes.

Awfully dusty, though... but I'm over it. The benefit outweighs the negatives.

 

Wouldn't you want to back off a click or two after feeling the drag? Having burned up a rear brake due to sticking from a leaky rear axle seal, I have to say that having constant brake pressure, however slight, is a bad thing.

 

Thats why i went with the 7000 EBC greenstuff pads. Less dusting.