UPDATE:

I installed my tru cool 4454 today and decided that I am going to run the trans cooler in series with the radiator for now. I decided to do this for now because I have a brand new radiator so the odds are very unlikely I'll get a milkshake anytime soon, and I want to monitor the trans temp this way with my new scangauge 2 I just bought. After I get some initial readings with the scangauge for a while, I will then switch to bypassing the radiator completely and see what temps I get then.

I feel that this is the optimal setup for the winter, since (1) the radiator helps bring the trans fluid up to temperature faster and (2) the trans cooler keeps it colder than the stock system. I know it doesnt solve the milkshake issue, but if you change out your radiator, you should be free from the issue for at least another 8 years or more.

My 2 cents

 

what year is your 4runner? and what xgauge codes did you use to read the tranny temp? I have a 97 and the codes i found in here doesnt seem to work,
It only displays the name.

 

How so? The coolant in the radiator is the coldest coolant in the system. It doesn't even begin to heat until the thermostat opens and completes the loop.

 

I'm pretty sure that those codes for tranny temp don't work for 96-98 T4R's. I tried the codes on mine and it also doesn't work. I have a 98, btw.

 

I have a 2001 and it works perfect. I've heard the code only works for 2001 and 2002 models.

The code I used is
TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8

 

Once it reaches open loop I think it would help keep the trans temp at a warmer minimum temperature. My average trans temperature right now in 0-30 degree weather is ~130 degrees with this setup. Like I said before I'm trying this setup just for now and may completely bypass the radiator cooler when spring rolls around.

 

does that mean that our obd can't read tranny temps?
or is just a different code?

 

cooler with sender line


return line


sensor in sender line


day



night with dimming bulbs

and for what its worth:

Tru-cool 4454
using mobil 1 multi-vehicle synthethic atf
idle/operating temp. = 150 F
climbing steep grades(10%-15%) = 170-180 F
city driving = 180 F
highway driving = 160 F
using an electrical gauge so i dont know how accurate these numbers are..

 

My set-up:
- Hayden 1679
- Bypass valve
- Radiator bypassed
- Scangauge II set to monitor the trans temp

I made a trip to Death Valley last week where I went through the Cerro Gordo trail starting from Hwy 136. The first 7 miles are a slow, uphill climb that I did in 4wd hi, in "L" (low) gear. The trans temp climbed to 251 degrees F. The trans temp idiot light did not come on, nor did I have any CEL.

I am questioning the following:
- does the Scangauge II program truly measure the trans temp?
- should I get rid of the bypass valve since I don't live in a sub-zero climate?
- should I just replace the radiator and run the trans cooler thru the radiator?

The jury's still out. Thought I'd add some additional data into the mix, here.

Steve.

 

^^^Very clean install logsurfer, nice work! You should post some of those pictures in the tranny-cooler install threads around here.

 

1. are you using the these codes for your scangauge 2?

your sig says 99, mine's a 97 and these dont work

what is your operating temp?

2. Mine has a built in bypass, but if you're living in SoCal i think you really don't need one. Unless you're planning to drive out of state

3. Depends on how old your radiator is. if its stock and you have at least 75k miles, i suggest you bypass the stock cooler.

thank you!

 

I also had my Tru-Cool 4454 installed this past weekend and finally bypassed the internal radiator cooler. Drove it for a little over 100 miles so far after the install, everything seems to be working fine.





It looks like the bumper is blocking the air flow to the cooler, but it really isn't too bad.

The only thing that's bothering me now is my lack of a way to monitor the trans fluid temp. I don't really want to put gauges in (since I don't really have the room for them). I was waiting for someone to come up with codes for the scangauge II and you guys did, but the problem is that it doesn't work with 96-98 models, so I'll keep searching for compatible codes.

 

The ECU doesn't set the idiot light until over 300* F, so that's normal to not get it on at 251* F.

My hottest ATF temps to date were also in similar conditions, mine didn't get that hot though. May need to add a fan or another cooler or something else if you do that often. That's hotter than I'd like too.

 

Hi LogSurfer,

Thank you for the input!

1. Yes, I am using those Scangauge II codes and I am fairly certain that I am indeed getting the trans temp. Trans temp seems to run anywhere from 140 to 200, during both city and hwy driving. It runs a little over 200 climbing at about 50 miles per hour and out of overdrive. The long, slow climb up Cerro Gordo was the only time the trans temp got over 210. The engine temp sits right about 190, which I believe makes sense since I am running a stock thermostat.

2. I agree with the mild So Cal climate and not needing any bypass to prevent the trans fluid from being too cold. But, I do get out to colder areas - like Bryce last winter where temps were right about 0, Lone Pine and Mono Lake areas last week where temps were down to 10 degrees.

3. I have 106,000 miles on the original radiator. So, overall, I feel safer having bypassed the radiator. I just wonder if running the trans fluid through the radiator would keep the trans temp closer to 200 degrees.

Decisions, decisions . . .

Steve.

 

Thank you for your input, Goat! I was hoping my post would bring you out of the woodworks - you've got a lot of great info! I almost just PM'd you with some pointed questions, but thought other members might benefit from the posts.

300* seems HIGH to me. I didn't realize that was where the idiot light triggers. I am considering installing a second trans cooler on the left side between the radiator and bumper (I put the current one on the right side). As far as frequency of long, slow climbs in 4wd, Cerro Gordo was the longest one I can recall doing like that.

I also went up Goler Wash to Barker Ranch (Charles Manson's hideout) last week - I believe it was about 5 miles of slow climbing in 4wd and "L" gear and the trans temp didn't get above 210.

I hope to be out on the trails a couple of times a month this spring, so I will be monitoring the trans temp closely - especially as the outside air temps get into the 90's.

I am leaning toward:
- installing a 2nd trans cooler
- leaving the bypass valve in place
- continuing to bypass the radiator

Steve.

 

Yes it would as long as your coolant temp is close to 200 F. It is a liquid to liquid heat exchanger.

Yeah I'd probably add another cooler or a fan to the one you have (if there is room). You can run two in series something like this:

 

you guys are so lucky with the sc2 codes! we're not

I would suggest leaving the bypass valve in there cause you already have it installed, plus you said that sometimes you go to cooler areas.

i think a cooler fan would be enough to bring your tranny temps down, if not go for the second cooler.

i'm surprised by my operating temp. i find it low. well maybe bcause the cooler is doing its job but i installed the sensor on the sender line.

 

Another thing you might try (don't know if it will help or not) is going to 4wd low in 3rd gear (drive).

 

hi, goat!

i was wondering if you're getting the same operating temps. I know you have the Tru-cool 4454 cause i based my cooler choice from yours. did you place the sensor on the sender line as well?

 

Yeah I guess about the same as what you posted earlier in the winter, hotter in the summer though. Yes, in sender cooler line.