Dr. Z you are right stant did make a 180 degree one to cure the problem as when i was having trouble with my runner before i realized i had a blown head gasket i put one in

 

atarinaper,

Thanks for your input.

This is completely OT, but I used to live where you live.

Peace.
G

 

I didn't read the entire post but I thought I would say something. I kept my truck in excellent condition and it never showed any problems. Then one day the engine just stopped. Well that was the end of the story. Somehow the engine blew without any indication of any problems. The thing I think you should be interested in is that I no longer have the 4runner. The cost to replace the engine was $5,000 and higher. These engines are very rare due to the fact they are so reliable. I would have the engine checked out as soon as possbile and make sure you get whatever fixed before you blow the engine.
Good luck.

 

So then what you guys are saying is that I'm about to blow a head??

YES!!

TIME FOR A NEW TRUCK!!

 

damn, i just got this truck. Could you guys just lie to me?

 

I have been trying to muzzle myself for a while since I have a bad habbit of talking too much, but I would like to add some thoughts here. I just went through a painful ordeal of tracking down an overheat, although it was not like your probelm. Mine would run a "little" hot (~200F) particularly under load (climbing a hill).
It looks like I had a bad radiator (it runs correctly after I put in a new one), but I replaced A LOT of stuff. Did the simple things like radiator cap, the thermostat, coolant flush, spray out the dirt/dust from the old radiator...then I went nuts and thought I had a bad water pump (thank GOD I was hooked up under warranty).
Sorry I can't help you specifically with your problem, but something is wrong. The real problem is that since our engines are all aluminum, they REALLY don't like getting hot. As Dr. Z mentioned, the first thing to go is the head gasket, then the top part of the engine, then the block. An entire engine rebuild is like $6K. If you are worried the dealership can do a test to see if any exhaust gases are mixing with you coolant (they add some color chaging liquid to the radiator) which would indicate a blown head gasket. Just so you know, unless you are lossing coolant you shouldn't have a blown gasket.
Last thing, I don't claim to be an expert. I did a lot of research with my problem and this is fresh in my head. Just wanted to pass on some info. Hope this works our for you.

 

How much would the dealer charge for that process about adding color in the coolant?

 

I never had it done, but the tech I talked made it sound like it was just a few buck (~$20?). Definitely worth the piece of mind IMHO if you think it might be a problem, especially if you know you are loosing coolant somewhere.

 

I have no idication that I'm losing coolant. It's been a while since I had to refill the resevoir.

 

I don't want to give you any bad info, so let me be as thorough as possible.
What I was told when I was freaking out over my truck was that a blown head gasket shouldn't cause any extra heat unless you are actually loosing coolant. If you ignore that the problem it will get worse and more expensive (i.e. serious engine damage).
As Dr. Z mentioned earlier, if there is a leak your truck will tend to idle rough on start up particularly when cold. Also, you might be able to smell antifreeze in the exhaust. The best self test I was told, was to check the spark plugs and look for wetness or a "steam-cleaned" look.
You have my best wishes since I went through a lot of headaches trying to kill my gremlin.

 

While we're on the subject. I know this sounds weird but my 22re runs perfect at a good low temp with my mods and a 180 thermostat normally. But when I turn the heater on, it heats up to almost red untill I turn the heater back off for a minute. When I turn it of the needle creeps back down to normal. After this I can turn the heater back on, it still runs a little hotter than normal (close to what a stock truck's temp would be). I've flushed my radiator a few time. This is the only trouble I have out of it. For the life of me I can't figure it out.

Thanks

 

I have no signs of any of this symptoms that you have indicated here.

 

My question is:

Are you all sure the sending unit for the thermo sensor is working correctly. In other words, how do you know the indicated temperature on your gauge is correct?

My temp never gets high after the vehicle is sitting and started back up, and that includes the summer here in PHX.

Anytime I have had cooling problems with my vehicles as you all have suggested, it has been the thermostat.

 

Hey King, well I would say that is good news. But I don't know what your gremlin might be. If it is actually hitting red I would be careful.

 

In the winter, the only time it comes close to hitting red is when I have been driving on the freeway for more than an hour. However, this does not apply when it's summer; I can drive for as little as thirty minutes be it city or highway and if I was to shut down and restart, it would go to nearly red.

 

Just realized your post.

If it would be the thermo sense then there would be nothing for me to worry about since its giving the wrong readings out. However, I'm sure that it is working correctly. The day it overheated on me, it shut off. That should be an indication that it is working properly.

The thermostat has been replaced not too long ago.

 

Noooo, you need a new engine Adam! Drop in a 2jz-gte so I can watch how to do it. Then after you've worked out all the kinks on your 2nd gen, you can do it to mine too!

Just think, then I could build you a sound system that is actually loud!

just messin bro

 

Wokring on the sound system, Steve. Don't worry though because SBN is gonna be fun. By the way Rick Dohaue and his stepson, Jason, are now members of xtreme distrubance. Jason is looking at doing a SS 1-2 van next year. What he wants to do scares the hell out of me. Maybe 160 numbers on the new termpro.