Engine knoking when cold!
#21
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I agree that warming up a motor for 5 minutes in the summer is very wasteful. There is absolutely no good reason to idle a motor for 5 minutes when it is warm out, my truck will get up to operating temp within that time in the middle of the Winter. I do usually start my truck and let it idle for a few minutes in the Winter, but in the Summer I just let it run for 30 seconds or so, that is plenty. And really, how often does it get below 10 degrees in WV, I live in central MA and it doesn't get below 10 all that much.
#22
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My 2nd gen used to knock a lot so I switched to Plus (89 octane) and it got a little quieter and then the next tank I switched to Premium (91 octane) and after that it was quiet as a bug...then I got a valve adjustment because the dealer recommended it...it was the quietest running 3vz I had heard...I would recommend springing for the few bucks extra a month and saving up for a valve adjustment. As for oil and filter, you're much better off using the stock Toyota filters. As for that high mileage oil, I don't think it does jack I used it in my 2nd gen for a while (140k) and my buddy at the dealer said that it was causing some build up inside so I switched to Mobil I which is what all the Toyota dealerships use for their oil changes and it ran smooth as silk man!
Those are just my experiences, I can't guarantee it'll work for your rig but sure as heck is worth a shot!
Fink
Those are just my experiences, I can't guarantee it'll work for your rig but sure as heck is worth a shot!
Fink
#23
Originally Posted by pat161
I agree that warming up a motor for 5 minutes in the summer is very wasteful. There is absolutely no good reason to idle a motor for 5 minutes when it is warm out, my truck will get up to operating temp within that time in the middle of the Winter. I do usually start my truck and let it idle for a few minutes in the Winter, but in the Summer I just let it run for 30 seconds or so, that is plenty. And really, how often does it get below 10 degrees in WV, I live in central MA and it doesn't get below 10 all that much.
My defrosters won't even work that fast and I sure want to see where I'm going and do it without my teeth rattleing and my truck sputtering,Lol.
I'm glad you can just start yours and take off , sure wish I could but I prefer to let it run a few minutes. Never been in that big of a hurry but I always had a habit of allowing mysefl time to get to where I have to be.
If his engine is already rattleing and it runs better after it warms up then that's what he should do to make it last longer. Wander why it quits rattling after it warms up...Ummm Maybe it's a good idea to let it warm up a little .
To each his own , I was just offering what has been my experience over the years. Mike
#25
4x4 Fink, If you know how to drive off road you don't need big tires!,Lol. Someone else mentioned that too. What I really ment was that it came with 16" wheels from the factory. (31") tires. Mike
#26
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My car runs better after i warm it up. I i dont warm it up winter or summer it runs like crap. Here in the rockies you got to warm up your car not only to warm up the engine but also to warm up the inside of the car because i just hate getting into a cold car. So Beartracker i know what exactly you are talking about.
#27
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I thought it was better to drive the vehicle lightly after it gains oil pressure.
It heats the vehicle up quicker than just letting it idle.
EDIT: Talked about here. http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic1446.htm
It heats the vehicle up quicker than just letting it idle.
EDIT: Talked about here. http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic1446.htm
Last edited by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK; 07-09-2005 at 12:06 PM.
#28
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I don't care what kind of gas you run, it is not going to effect a cold knock situation as the original poster has described. Piston slap could be responsible, and if so just go easy till it is warmed up. allowing an engine to completely warm up at idle is rather ineffective, and certainly not necessary. now if it is really cold (less than 30deg F) I'd say let it idle at least 30sec before putting it in gear. longer if it is less than 0deg.
There is one other condition that will give you a cold knock. Carbon build up on the pistons and head. This is very common on 3rzfe and 4rzfe engines but can happen on any engine.
This can usually be remedied by bringing the engine to operating temp. And you take about 16oz of water and connect one of the small vacuum lines on your throttle body so that it sucks the water out of the bottle while you hold the engine speed at 2500 to 3000.
Targetnut
this water will blast most of the carbon from the piston and combustion chamber and will usually get rid of the cold knock if carbon is the cause.
There is one other condition that will give you a cold knock. Carbon build up on the pistons and head. This is very common on 3rzfe and 4rzfe engines but can happen on any engine.
This can usually be remedied by bringing the engine to operating temp. And you take about 16oz of water and connect one of the small vacuum lines on your throttle body so that it sucks the water out of the bottle while you hold the engine speed at 2500 to 3000.
Targetnut
this water will blast most of the carbon from the piston and combustion chamber and will usually get rid of the cold knock if carbon is the cause.
#29
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Are you still running your original catalytic converter? If so, I would say that is a prime suspect for an engine that runs rough only when cold and runs normal once its warm.
#31
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Try using pure synthetic oil. You would not believe how much petroleum oil thickens up when it starts to get cold. Getting oil to the parts quicker and keeping a stable oil film is always a good thing.
#33
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i dont think switching to synthetic oil will be a good idea sinse it burns oil and leaks oil also... i will be putting a quart of oil everyday if i do switch to synthetic oil.
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