Whitey

I lowered my tailgate on my 93 Runner and I was able to easily remove the panel on the inside of the gate. It just "snapped out". My question is - Do the panels on the inside of the doors snap out as easily? Or are they a pain in the kazoo to remove? I read in here where a few of you removed yours and lubed your window tracks so that the mechanism would operate more efficiant and the glass would operate smoother and quicker. I want to do the same. Help! I don't want to take it to the Toyota Tech. for something I can possibly do myself.

91Runner

What I do on mine is I just roll down the windows, and spray some WD-40 up inside the edges all the way around. It seems to work great, although the first few times of rolling the windows up and down there's a little film around the edge of the windows, but after a few times of rolling up and down, and wiping off the film it's gone.

As far as the tailgate panel, mine pops off easily also, so I guess that they are meant to be popped out with out too much effort.

Good Luck With It

-Braden

MikePL

Do not worry, removing door panels is quite easy. They also pop-out quite easily. You just have to unscrew the arm rests and carefully detach the door handles. I have removed loads of door panels in my cars and the 4Runner panels are the nicest and easiest job. Just remember the rule of thumb for removing ALL plastic parts in your car:
if something does not want to yield, do not pull. This is not your drivetrain, do not apply force. These are crappy plastics with lots of attachments. First OBSERVE, then apply force.

Do not replace plastic parts in cold temperature either. The plastic looses its flexibility and breaks.

As for the WD-40 tip, I wouldn't do it. I think that such a grease attracts dust particles. I would just wax the windows (take a candle and rub the window edges). Wax isn't greasy and yet provides a good slide.

Cebby

I haven't tackled my side windows yet. When I first got the 4Runner, the rear window motor died - good thing I had the extended warranty!! Over time, the metal tracks that the plastic wheels ride in down in the rear door corrode and picks up debris. Toyota techs told me this is a problem/design flaw with this model. I've had the rear window completely out of the vehicle before to clean these tracks out and remove some corrosion. When I reassembled it, I loaded the tracks and all working mechaisms with spray white lithium grease. I also sprayed the rubber guides with spray silicone lubricant. This seemed to do the trick. I haven't had any 'buildup" of any sort from these lubes I used.

Whitey

Cebby, when I removed my tailgate panel, the window still wasn't exposed. How difficult is it to get to the window/tracks? i didn't want to attempt anything when I removed the panel as it was late in the evening and the weather is unpredictable. Would love to get inside there and see the "works".

BTOWN4RUNNER

I have recently had a problem with mine. I would be on the outside and turn the key to lower the window and it would go alittle way and then stop. I would turn the key again and stop. This would go on and on. It is the same way going up. But I would go inside and use the switch inside and it works fine. My thinking is that it is the switch for the key. Maybe a loose wire or something. But I tried it again a few days later and it worked fine (with the key). Anyone have any idea with what this could be? Thanks. :fireman:

91Runner

Mine does the same thing BTOWN, I have no idea what it is. Mine's done that since the day I bought it, some days it's better than others, and other times it won't roll down at all.

-Braden

Cebby

To completely pull the window out and give it a good going over will take about 2 hours. Maybe a bit more the first time you tear it apart. It's been about 6 months since I pulled mine, so I'm going from an already bad memory.

After removing the carpet piece (no tools, just yank it) - take off the black steel cover (6 or 8 screws). At this point you can get to the wiring and see the tracks. What you need to do is unplug the connector that connects to the mercury switch in the tailgate that prohibits the glass from being rolled up when the gate is down. Then go up front, using the key in the ignition, roll the window out a little bit at a time. You'll see the tracks I spoke of and the nylon wheel riding in it. Chances are, it's full of all sorts of gunk. If it doesn't look bad, just wipe it out and give it a good blast of white lithium grease. Also hit the gears attached to the motor (you'll see them). Roll the window back down/in to spray the side tracks down inside the door.

Now if it is gunked up really bad, here's what it takes to get the unit out. Roll the window back out about 1/2 way. Remove the door handle - first take the rod off the handle by pivoting the plastic keeper to free it. Unscrew the motor and unplug all the harnesses. Don't worry. they've idiot-proofed the connections (no two the same). It takes some finagling, but you can then pull out the whole assembly. I put a wire wheel on a drill to clean my tracks and gears - it worked great. Then I lubed it up and reassembled it. Remember to hook up your defroster wires (I forgot last time). Next time I rip it apart, I'll take pics and do a write-up.

Cebby

Oops, forgot about the whole key thing...:pat:

If the key switch is bad, it is easy to get to when the window is out (or up). It is held in place by a big "U" clip. Just pop out the old and pop in a new one. My keys don't work in anything but my ignition - been meaning to replace the whole set. The dealer wanted $190 in parts and 2-3 hours of labor - there's got to be a cheaper way!!!

Whitey

Cebby -- Thanks for the excellent instructions.