e-locker wiring help needed
08-07-2004 | 03:25 PM
#21
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From: Portland, Oregon
Jake you make some very good points. The switch must be able to handle 20 amps. There are 20 amp toggle switches at Schucks and other auto places. Second, good point you made was the motor burn out if the switch is left on too long. That's where the key is in having a relay. The guys at Slee Offroad know their stuff. 
08-09-2004 | 05:28 AM
#23
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From: MN, USA
FWIW I was able to get the ECU setup to work with a slightly modified version of the first wiring diagram in this thread. I just followed the wiring diagram and didn't complicate things by really trying to understand it. It was pretty much plug and play. Here's the modified diagram I used:
http://www.geocities.com/transalper/...ker_wiring.jpg Instead of usng the resistor and new bulb, I just hooked the indicator circuit to the existing in-dash light (like Lars did for his ARB).
The sensor input is not needed. I tested the ECU/locker on the bench before installing the 3rd and it worked fine.
It was pretty much plug and play. Here's the modified diagram I used:http://www.geocities.com/transalper/...ker_wiring.jpg Instead of usng the resistor and new bulb, I just hooked the indicator circuit to the existing in-dash light (like Lars did for his ARB).
My best hunch is if you are trying to us the ECU as a stand alone unit, it wont work. I think it needs input from all the sensors. Sort of a "Fail Safe" system. If the ECU does not receive a signal from a sensor it will not lock the locker. Maybe Bruce will chime in on this.
Last edited by transalper; 08-09-2004 at 05:45 AM.
08-09-2004 | 05:51 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by transalper
FWIW I was able to get the ECU setup to work with a slightly modified version of the first wiring diagram in this thread. I just followed the wiring diagram and didn't complicate things by really trying to understand it. It was pretty much plug and play. Here's the modified diagram I used:
http://www.geocities.com/transalper/...ker_wiring.jpg Instead of usng the resistor and new bulb, I just hooked the indicator circuit to the existing in-dash light (like Lars did for his ARB).
The sensor input is not needed. I tested the ECU/locker on the bench before installing the 3rd and it worked fine.
It was pretty much plug and play. Here's the modified diagram I used:http://www.geocities.com/transalper/...ker_wiring.jpg Instead of usng the resistor and new bulb, I just hooked the indicator circuit to the existing in-dash light (like Lars did for his ARB).
The sensor input is not needed. I tested the ECU/locker on the bench before installing the 3rd and it worked fine.
So you just ignored the yellow/blue from the lock detection switch?
08-09-2004 | 07:23 AM
#25
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Probably another dumb question, but what is the best way to test whether or not the e-locker is working with this set-up? The reason I ask is because I have the front seat out and crap everywhere. So, if the best way to test it is to go out and engage 4WD, then I need to know.
My method of testing has been to have my wife push the RR diff lock button while I was at the rear diff listening for the e-locker motor to make a sound. I heard nothing.
My method of testing has been to have my wife push the RR diff lock button while I was at the rear diff listening for the e-locker motor to make a sound. I heard nothing.
08-09-2004 | 07:40 PM
#26
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<96 Runner>, see if this helps out, I had this posted elsewhere;
I can't see how your having problems if you took out all the parts from the donor rig and it was worknig before hand. Do the checks above and let me know, I'll try and help walk you through...
Originally Posted by BruceTS
You need to see if power is getting to the e-locker ECU. Pin #5 on the plug should be black/yellow or black/white, with the key on, see if there is power at that connection. If so, check the green/yellow wire pin #4; e-locker switch off = no power, on = power also you'll hear a clicking noise from the box, which is a solenoid engaging. If you hear this noise check the light green wire pin #3 for power; this is power going to the e-locker motor to engage. If so check the light green/red wire pin #2 to see if it is grounded. If so, your ECU is ok, now you need to see if actual power(switch on) is getting to the e-locker at the axle. Check the green wire at both connectors, frame and locker motor to see if you got power, if not then the problem is somewhere in the wiring harness. If power is going to the motor then you'll need to remove the assembly and check it out.
If the switch in the E-locker that tells the ECU which relay to activate, doesn't close it's connection properly this will prevent the system from working. Pin #9 should be grounded if the switch is working properly, if it's not, you can try grounding this lead to see if it activates relay 1 in the ECU, this sometime will jump start the system and fix the problem.
If the switch in the E-locker that tells the ECU which relay to activate, doesn't close it's connection properly this will prevent the system from working. Pin #9 should be grounded if the switch is working properly, if it's not, you can try grounding this lead to see if it activates relay 1 in the ECU, this sometime will jump start the system and fix the problem.
I can't see how your having problems if you took out all the parts from the donor rig and it was worknig before hand. Do the checks above and let me know, I'll try and help walk you through...
08-09-2004 | 07:51 PM
#27
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Thanks Bruce, I will test all that tomorrow night and report back.
The donor rig's locker was working, I tested it. However, instead of stealing the 4WD/ABS ECU controller from that rig, I had to buy one from Jim (which should be no problem).
Like I mentioned previously, I know power is going to and through the 10A and 20A 12+ respectively. It is reaching the locker ECU, but for some reason it is not leaving the ECU to the e-locker motor. Everything is grounded.
I will report back tomorrow night.
The donor rig's locker was working, I tested it. However, instead of stealing the 4WD/ABS ECU controller from that rig, I had to buy one from Jim (which should be no problem).
Like I mentioned previously, I know power is going to and through the 10A and 20A 12+ respectively. It is reaching the locker ECU, but for some reason it is not leaving the ECU to the e-locker motor. Everything is grounded.
I will report back tomorrow night.
08-09-2004 | 08:13 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Like I mentioned previously, I know power is going to and through the 10A and 20A 12+ respectively. It is reaching the locker ECU, but for some reason it is not leaving the ECU to the e-locker motor. Everything is grounded.
08-10-2004 | 05:18 AM
#29
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From: MN, USA
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Jay-
So you just ignored the yellow/blue from the lock detection switch?
So you just ignored the yellow/blue from the lock detection switch?
Is the ECU clicking when you push the button? Like BruseTS says, the relays will click when you engage and disengage the locker.
It's probably just a misconnected wire or something like that. Double-check the switch.
Last edited by transalper; 08-10-2004 at 05:24 AM.
08-10-2004 | 03:49 PM
#30
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OK guys, I just tested everything and I am pretty sure the ECU is no good.
Pin #5 power? YES
Pin #4 power, switch on? YES
I hear no sound of a solenoid in the ECU engaging. I tried to ground Pin #9 to "jump start" relay 1 in the ECU, and nothing happened.
I also noticed that the ECU has JB Weld on it, which concerns me. I wonder if the owner of the ECU before Jim did something to it?
I have spoken with Jim on PM, so I am not concerned about returning it because we will work that out between us.
Any other ideas before I contact Jim?
Pin #5 power? YES
Pin #4 power, switch on? YES
I hear no sound of a solenoid in the ECU engaging. I tried to ground Pin #9 to "jump start" relay 1 in the ECU, and nothing happened.
I also noticed that the ECU has JB Weld on it, which concerns me. I wonder if the owner of the ECU before Jim did something to it?
I have spoken with Jim on PM, so I am not concerned about returning it because we will work that out between us.
Any other ideas before I contact Jim?
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 08-10-2004 at 03:53 PM.
08-10-2004 | 04:01 PM
#31
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From: Pleasant Hill, CA
Someone mentioned earlier that the gears had to be moving to allow the locking fork to move into position.... is there a sensor or switch that is tripping this? What position was the locker in when you installed it (locked or unlocked, i would assume unlocked)?
It does seem like the ecu might be bad. Building your own bank of relays and a couple resistors wouldn't be hard.
It does seem like the ecu might be bad. Building your own bank of relays and a couple resistors wouldn't be hard.
08-10-2004 | 04:06 PM
#32
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I agree Steve. And the donor rig was unlocked and in awesome condition. No worries there. My concern is not hearing the sound Bruce said I would hear when the ECU successfully recieved and relayed the incoming power. I am not getting that, and JB Weld scares me. 
Looks like I might have to build my own. Dang, I guess I have to go camping this weekend with old school 4WD (2WD really).
Looks like I might have to build my own. Dang, I guess I have to go camping this weekend with old school 4WD (2WD really).
08-10-2004 | 04:42 PM
#35
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Here's a wiring diagram... this guy made his own controller. It's about 2/3 of the way down the page.
http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/.
http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/.
08-10-2004 | 05:23 PM
#36
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
OK guys, I just tested everything and I am pretty sure the ECU is no good.
Pin #5 power? YES
Pin #4 power, switch on? YES
I hear no sound of a solenoid in the ECU engaging. I tried to ground Pin #9 to "jump start" relay 1 in the ECU, and nothing happened.
I also noticed that the ECU has JB Weld on it, which concerns me. I wonder if the owner of the ECU before Jim did something to it?
I have spoken with Jim on PM, so I am not concerned about returning it because we will work that out between us.
Any other ideas before I contact Jim?
Pin #5 power? YES
Pin #4 power, switch on? YES
I hear no sound of a solenoid in the ECU engaging. I tried to ground Pin #9 to "jump start" relay 1 in the ECU, and nothing happened.
I also noticed that the ECU has JB Weld on it, which concerns me. I wonder if the owner of the ECU before Jim did something to it?
I have spoken with Jim on PM, so I am not concerned about returning it because we will work that out between us.
Any other ideas before I contact Jim?
08-10-2004 | 07:43 PM
#38
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<96 Runner>, too bad you don't live near me, I have a brand new ECU in a box. I picked it up, just in case I fried mine during dissassembly....
Weird that there is JB weld on it, they come apart easily without any problems. I'd say there was a problem with it if the relay didn't click.
BTW, Why didn't you get the one out of the donor rig?
Weird that there is JB weld on it, they come apart easily without any problems. I'd say there was a problem with it if the relay didn't click.
BTW, Why didn't you get the one out of the donor rig?
08-10-2004 | 08:41 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
BTW, Why didn't you get the one out of the donor rig?
I would love to find an ECU so I can verify it is the problem. Maybe someone around here will have one I can try.
One good thing is that I can still drive the rig and I have 4WD. Therefore I can take my time and get this done right. I still don't know what my best option is at this point. I guess trying another ECU would be smart...
