Thanks guys,
How is the locker in the snow?
any advantage......... or more problems?
Kenny S>

 

Sharrack: Any sort of Locker or limited slip diff is much better in the snow, ice, mud, or any other slippery condition than a regular open diff., because it keeps traction to both tires. If you were in snow with a regular diff and one tire breaks traction, 100% of the power is transfered to the tire that is freespining, which wont help you much, because, duh it has no traction. So you rig becomes one wheel drive (if you have it in 2wd) A locker in the same condition would lock the halfshafts in the axel, and both tires will turn. If they do both start to slip, the rear end will at least move around a little to seek traction - something an open diff is not capable of because one wheel on the axel is planted in the snow, not moving.

 

I would totally sell you my rear e-locked ass end if you didn't live so far away. Everything works perfectly except for the locker ECU which died about 4 months ago. The electronics for these things are the biggest liability on the trail. TTORA has a write up on how to by pass all of it and just use a DPDT switch.

For the record, I found it to be all but worthless for the trails and such I run in my truck. Used it maybe 7-8 times in 2 1/2 years on trails all over the Southwest US.

 

sharrak what berzerk says is correct that the power is directed to the wheel with the least resistance. a locker can be very helpful if you're offroading. very very helpful. but daily driving in the snow/icy winter conditions with a locked rig is very questionable because in turning tires obviously spin at a different rate from eachother. if a rig is locked the tires will spin at the same rate therefore creating a high chance of the truck breaking free from traction and sliding. that's why guys desire a selectable locker (elocker, arb) because they can control when the are locked and not leave it up to the locker. with an automatic locker you really have to get a feel how the truck reacts to how you drive then you can predict more of less how the truck is going to drive during winter times.

my friend has the newer detroit locker and his driving is conservative but even when he pushes hard the detroit doesn't give him any problems of being locked when it is not supposed to be.

 

I STRONGLY feel if you dont suck at driving this is not an issue. Maybe its just because my other car has LSD so im used it. Neither wheel can spin faster than the driveshaft, so as long as you dont start spining AND THEN floor it, i think you'll find a locker is still a better option than being stranded because one tire is sitting on ice.

Perhaps Detroits arnt for anyone, but the only people I have ever heard complain about them have never had one

Ritzy, sorry if we turned this into an auto locker debate :S

 

This is just wrong.

 

tell me about it!!! haha. maybe someone should watch the ultimate adventure.

 

you just gotta be used to driving around with a locked rear end, i know im sure as hell not used to it. and not everyone is. when it comes to snow driving, ill use a candle, a can, and kitty litter until i get my locker, then ill prob still use candles and kitty litter. but hey what do i know bout snow drivin im in san diego where it dont snow lol

 

sorry but an auto magic locker is a cheesy solution
for something that hits the road.


if it stays off road then it is fine. that is my point.

I am talking long term stuff.

 

This is gr8! Not a problem for me, heck I have enjoyed the spirited debate! I have been learning as much from this part of the thread as I have from the advice and other recommendations.
Good questioon Kenny, just remember this quote I learned being in the submarine force for over 24 years "The only stupid question is the one you DON'T ask"

Thanks VERY much Rocket for your input as well, the things to look for are very helpful. (Tuck those tidbits away for future reference) So to reiterate,
I do wish to keep the vehicle as stock as possible. I would have to agree that finding an OEM elocker will be the real challenge but after reading the responses, my first and only real choice is the OEM route.

I think maybe Big, you have hit on the simple response! Will continue to watch for this one in my favorite haunts!

As for the real need for one, I have not really had a desperate need for one in the past year I have owned the truck but there have been a few instances it would have made life a bit easier. Also having it is better then wishing I had it! Besides it will add a bit to the overal value of the truck when I do sell it one day.

I would definitely totally buy it too! You bring up a point that relates back to my original posting about things I need to know. The ECU, will I need to replace my current ECU with the one from the donor vehicle? I'm sure it would be a simple plug & play issue but is it needed or recommended? Will my non-elocker ECU work? See? I'm learning with each input!

I wish I could name each of you indiviually for your inputs, (Rockslide can't leave you out!) so many many thanks to all of you on this, and if anything else comes up, have any other suggestions, PLEASE don't hesitate to chime in.

I still love to check out wrecking yards so I can keep my eyes open for an intact rear end with the factory elocker. What a great place with great knowledge we have!

 

NO problem here as the more information/experience that gets posted the better. I just called Toyota and found out my 98 came with 4.10 gears. The next thing would be to locate a wrecked 4runner with a 4.10 elocker. Option #2 would be to find a wrecked 4runner with both front and rear intact and usable, then just swap out rear ends, front differentials or gears try to salvage the harness from the wrecked runner and put it in mine. I may need to check my FSM electrical wiring diagrams to see what I will need besides the switch and wires. If there is an associated ECU with the locker then I will need to get that as well. Hey is a project so I just do a little at a time. Thanks for the inputs guys gr8 stuff!

 

The only 4Runners that had 4.10 e-lockers were the 5-Speeds, V6, the Auto, V6 has 4.30's. 2.7's with e-locker had 4.56.

 

ok so help me out here, i have been trying to research this for awhile and i'm still a little confused about how to convert from a non-locker to a e-locker...... i have access to a wrecked limited with a locker... what would i need to take from this 4runner to put the rear end in mine?? my runner is a 97' i'm not sure what year the wrecked one is... does my runner have the wire harness already in it?!?!?! what would i need to make the switch out of the limited work on my 97??? help... is there a thread on what would be required for me to do this swap??? i have skill tools and most everything else... just want input from the experienced guys!!! thanks

 

There is a thread. Actually posts 2 and 3 in this one have info/ write-ups on how to do it.

 

yea i have looked over both of these and they are alright but i was wondering if there was an actual write up on it... what parts to get, what wires to hook where and if my 4runner was pre-wired for it...

 

i think i might have answered my own question with this write-up.... its pretty explanatory....


http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html

 

That's in the 2nd post of this thread as I pointed out earlier

 

Ok I see now! Thanks! Lol now I feel like a retard! But its alright! Lol

 

It's ok man, I would suggest swapping the whole axle out (modding the housing is a pain). If you have the wiring harnesses and ECU, this should be a pretty easy swap.

 

ya that is what i'm going to try to do.... i'm still curious as to if my runner is pre wired for it or not.... why run all the wires if its not needed?!?!?! lol anyways....