I searched the forums and didn't really find the answer to my questoins so here it goes; Most of you here have seen some of my mods and write ups. I am somewhat "mechnically inclined".

I am considering installing a Toyota OEM e-Locker in my 1998 SR5 4WD 4Runner w/ ABS non-locker. I just checked with Toyota and my gear ratio is 4.10. The issue for me is I want to install as close to OEM as I can. Install Toyota parts as I do have a warranty that is still in effect so at a minimum I want to use Toyota parts but even still I may wait till the after market warranty expires. I can rip out the interior of my truck and route the needed wires that need to be added to the harness, add pins to plugs, re-pin connectors, install harness wiring and switches. I can turn a pretty good wrench and should have most all the hand tools I need to remove and install the rear end. So here in are the questions:

1. Not too sure of the what will be totally involved and to add to the dilemna, I just had the seals in the rear axle replaced along with the brakes. If I keep the OEM axle housing I currently have, what mods would I have to do to the housing to install the donor e-locker (3rd member?) and what parts would I need? Is it a simple unbolt/bolt replacement with the associated wiring hookups?

2. Should I swap out the present rear end with a corresponding gear ratio e-locker rear end? What things will I need to watch for and check when inspecting a possible donor rear end?

These are the only real options I am considering as I still have a warranty on the truck so this stuff has to be OEM. An air locker is not an option I would care to pursue (cost issues along with resale value). Grinding, cutting, welding are not options available to me either. And as with everyone (for the most part) cash is a consideration. Read a few write ups and the answers to these questions are not totally answered. The wiring is not going to be a big deal, like I said, I can re-pin connectors, route wires and install switches, solder, crimp etc.


Thanks to everyone who replies. The knowledge base here is the absolute BEST! I have gotten so much wonderful advice and instruction for so many here and thats why when I do a write up, I am so meticulous with the pics and such as I know it helps someone else when they come to doing the same mod. Once again, Thank you for your knowledge and assistance.



Corey, I know this is off topic, but if you read this, PM me with how I can send some money to the site to help sponsor, don't have alot but I would like to send something.

 

If you keep you present axel you're going to have to grind and move a few of the studs. I would swap the axels.

Good write up on Sonoran Steel website.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html

I have been thinking about doing this for quite a while. The wife keeps changing her mind if we're going to keep the truck or not.

 

here's another one from Bob's site

http://www.4runners.org/writeups/elocker/

 

Ritzy, from the 2 posts above, those are the 2 most popular links you will need to get started.

I had researched doing this mod on my '02, but decided against it. For yours, it's very straight forward. If I were you, I'd just straight swap the axles...much easier that way.

Here's even more info you can read up on when I posted a thread about it on UY: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=5156.0

 

find a wre4cked limited, toss the ass of that into yours...done

 

yeah you need to grind out part of the housing to fit the actuator then weld and grind then drill and tap two more stud holes.

theres some e-lockers for sale here on bend craigslist 350 each bad ring and pinions, still a steal though.

 

Thanks guys much more interesting stuff here. I read the links and the process. In my case I think I need to find a recently wrecked 4runner with the eLocker and just get the whole rear end, would be much simplier. Will have to save up a bit of extra cash. Looks like I need a bit of overtime! Thanks and any more suggestions are always welcome.

 

It will prolly take you a while and a good bit of luck to find the whole rear housing wth the e-locker.
I think the TRD taco's show up in salvage with elockers, I wonder if that diff housing is compatible with a 3rd gen?
Having done ONE elocker conversion on my 87 4Runner, I can tell you the modification to the diff housing is not a big deal. Its a deal, just not a big one. keep in mind, you can find a used chunk, but you're still staring at a bearing kit, gear set, and labor to get it ready to install. I got my TRD locker for $250 from a friend, had 4000 miles on it, but spent an additional $500+ to get it geared up to my desired ratio. I used an old pinion as a punch to bang out the bulge into the housing needed for clearance for a bolt on the carrier... a little 4" angle grinder from home depot to grind out the openin on the housing for the motor and fork, studs from Toyota, and simple location, drill, tap the studs. Then wash everything REALLY well! Some relays and trailer wire and switches for a simple controller... ther'es plenty of rescources and write ups on line to guide you thru each process.
The only puzzling thing about my project was; its written up that a V6 first gen rear is beefier and does not need the housing clearancing... but I got my donor housing from an 89 V6 4Runner, and it had the same dimensions as my 4banger 4Runner.

 

Hate to sound like a complete dope but can anyone direct me to a link or explain what the e-locker does and the best times to use it?

Thanks .kenny S>

 

The e-locker is just an electronic selectable locker. With a push of a button, you can lock the rear diff. Push it again and you unlock it. It's similar to an ARB air locker, just w/o the air.

When to use it you ask...simple - when wheelin' and maximum traction is needed. It's not something you want to use on dry pavement.

 

here is a practical example of how to use it.


I have a driveway to my cabin, 1 mile long, and my stock 4runner has 11 inches clearance. this road is bony, rockey, rooty, and stumpy. I drive -s l o w- up the trail as I creep in 4wd low. the trail is steep and twisty but nice and slow I can get up there and only scrape my skidplates and hitch once in a while.

now 4wd low is great, but there is a wet stump up ahead and when I creep over that I will spin and sit there. If I hit it at 6mph I would fly over it but I creep as to not damage my rig. so I spin, 4wd is useless when one back wheel is spinning and one front is spinning.

so, I activate the locker. it may not engage instantly but I slowly back 2 feet then creep forward 2 feet then clang, it engages. once engaged both rear wheels are locked together and I am no longer stuck, I proceed forward.

if I -do- still spin, both wheels moving will make the rear end seek traction, the ass end of my 4runner will wiggle and grab what it can. I just do not get stuck anymore having a locker. also, when I am towing big drags, i don't get stuck. I used the locker when i am building trails and
collecting rocks I can't carry by hand. a ford f150 4wd couldn't drag this rock up a hill, but my 4runner did it fine. I have a locker. The locker is King.

https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...-img_19613.jpg


so...the above is a practical example. I go slow, slow makes you stuck in some slippery stuff.

in any other example, the same applies. if you get stuck in 4wd, try the locker and if you are gonna get moving, the locker will do it.

 

Dude just get a Detroit locker and dont worry about silly air compressors or electric motors. It's self-contained within the diff. and goes on exactly when it needs to, and turns off when you are in turns. Plus they are a lot less exspensive than air lockers and e-lockers.

Plus, no need for an axel swap

 

detroit locker bad for around town.

good for farm, not so good for rock crawling

 

have you heard of the detroit softlocker? They have no backlash or clunking. also, why would you say they arnt good for rock crawling? They go 100% lock and Im told are very durable.

 

Read the thread.

Ritzy,
I once had the same dilemma and thought about a Detroit but ruled it out as my 4runner will be driven frequently. Anyone should know a selectable locker is definitely the way to go.
For the wiring I'll be using an ORS harness...it's basically plug and play. Your own choice of switch can added too, buy the one you want and they'll use it.

Yes, If you have the patience to wait and continuously search, that would be your least painful and simple swap.

Rust? Leaking diff/bearing seals...otherwise nothing. Finding one is the hardest part...fortunately it's becoming easier as these 3rd gens are aging. If your lucky enough to find one, snatch it up!

It would be nice to have the factory gauge cluster illuminate with a tiny 'RR-diff' light but that does require a lot more work.
The "new" ORS or even Inchworm's harness will do the same -at the switch.

 

sometimes you want locked and the self-aware unit in the back will unlock
on you, then you slide and smack into something.

either a real user controlled locker, or it's a farm tool for traction in predictable conditions. sure 80% of the time it will be fine but I wouldn't want to be balancing on 2 wheels looking at a canyon wall with a detriot locker


plus a detroit locker will wear the heck out of your tires front and back, if it is your daily road vehicle

 

Selectable locker is the way to go if its your daily driver! I have recentley put an elockr in my 97 runner i went with a complete axle swap as i did gears at the same time. went from 4.10 to 4.56 with the toy elocker I ordered the ORS elocker harness and have yet to recieve it but i spent quite some time doing research and figured that would be the easiest route without tapping into my original harness or stripping my interior in search of wires. Toyota did make a few dif harnesses for the runner and you may have the wiring there already..

 

BigBalls, Im sure if you talked to anyone on here with a detroit or aussie they'd tell you their locker never caused a crash while offroading...

But, I do see your point about having 100% control over it, but I guess for me paying so much more and adding extra components that can fail dont seem worth it.

About the tire wear, Im personally coming from a BMW m3 with an LSD and extremely soft tires, so I guess its just normal for me. I got about 10k out of my last pair of Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3s... :/

 

BigBallsMcfalls. i don't think you fully know what you're talking about. that explanation of how a locker works is horrible. SHARRACK here's a link to get you started on locker info....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...lockers-70952/

 

x2 etan...