The Dreaded Front diff drain bolt!
#1
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The Dreaded Front diff drain bolt!
It was rounded out to begin with, and the previous owner had the differential shell cracked and RTV'd back together. The fill bolt was just as bad and I have no idea how they refilled it.
I was able to get the fill plug out with the help of a welder, 10mm allen key, 4 pound hammer and a buddy.
I CANNOT get the drain plug out. HAmmer and chisle, we tried welding a bolt to it, we even prayed.
Nothing.
anybody else have a way to get that thing out?
I was able to get the fill plug out with the help of a welder, 10mm allen key, 4 pound hammer and a buddy.
I CANNOT get the drain plug out. HAmmer and chisle, we tried welding a bolt to it, we even prayed.
Nothing.
anybody else have a way to get that thing out?
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This may sound stupid, but is it possible to replace these recessed hex plugs with another type of bolt/plug? Like the rear differential drain plug?
#5
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I don't see why you'd want to, though. And I don't see why everyone has such a problem with em.
I just replaced my rear diff plug with a low-pro hex nut..
#6
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yeah even on my canadian 4runner i dont have a problem with them.
Breaking them loose the first time can be a female dog. But i just pull mine out to keep them from seizing everytime i do an oil change.
Breaking them loose the first time can be a female dog. But i just pull mine out to keep them from seizing everytime i do an oil change.
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I tried hammering on it some more after I blasted it with more PB blaster. More metal gone from the lip area. Who ever designed this setup needs a punch to the nose.
If I ever get the dang thing out I will put some anti-seize on the new one.
If I ever get the dang thing out I will put some anti-seize on the new one.
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#11
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Front Bud Built or the like heavy skid will protect it for next time.... But yeah if you couldn't get it off even after welding something to it.... it's BAD! (I saw you tried to weld a bolt to it, did you try welding a long piece of metal to use kind of like a breaker bar??)
And with all the crap you went through, Paying $45 to let the stealer-ship deal with it sounds like a bargain!
And with all the crap you went through, Paying $45 to let the stealer-ship deal with it sounds like a bargain!
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i believe the 10mm and 12mm is for the earlier models (up to '98). For posterity's sake, the newer runners are both the same size (I think 12mm)- but don't quote me on that. I have a '96...
I think this is what came up in an earlier post, anyway- I realize some previous posters confirmed the 12 and 10 figure, too.
I think this is what came up in an earlier post, anyway- I realize some previous posters confirmed the 12 and 10 figure, too.
Last edited by Nuthuts96; 07-14-2010 at 05:30 PM.
#14
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$45 sounds like a good price, considering you've already exhausted all your resources. But do they know how bad it is? Do they know you haven't been able to get it off even by welding something else to it? I wouldn't be surprised if their price sky-rockets up once they see it.
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yeah me too! The guy at the service desk is cool. He has helped me out before, and I am friends with the head parts counter guy.
I have been blasting it with PB blaster everyday since sunday, and its been in the garage that long (carpool means I only drive once a week).
I hope they can get it out, so I can go shoot it!
I have been blasting it with PB blaster everyday since sunday, and its been in the garage that long (carpool means I only drive once a week).
I hope they can get it out, so I can go shoot it!
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This may sound a little crazy. Try an air impact wrench. Also try to tighten a little then loosen, repeat until it comes out. Keep pressure straight inward. Don't over do it with the impact.
When You get it out, put some anti-seize on the plug threads.
When You get it out, put some anti-seize on the plug threads.
#17
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$45 well spent. Dealer got it out, used my mobil1, and anti-seize on the bolts.
And I had milkshakes with my sons while it was being done. Good day.
And I had milkshakes with my sons while it was being done. Good day.
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