Dr Z,

What dealership and/or wreck yard gave you those prices? I was quoted over $300 for the airbox alone on a 98 from 2 different dealers, and $150 from a wrecking yard. I'd love to get my hands on another airbox so I can have one spare before doing the deck plate mod.

Thanks,

Tom

 

Yes, I read.

I saw that, but wasn't sure "how" different it would be. I'm confused though. If those parts listed aren't in the airstream, how do they affect the "throughput"? I would think parts hanging off the pipe wouldn't have much effect. I'd be willing to try it after I get a better understanding of the function.

Chris

 

Hey 96-98 year model folks-

I have been looking into this mod for my 98, with DR Z's help, and trying to figure out the best way to go about it. If you look at the main air intake, it actually has 3 "things" branching off from the main tube that serve as intake resonators and/or silencers. There is a "J" shaped piece on the bottom of the tube, just after the MAF, then there is a front and rear resonator as you move up and right along the intake. All three of these pieces work together to interrupt intake air flow and make it more quiet.

As Dr. Z mentioned, I simply put tape over these and clamped them back into place. Although not perfect, it does smooth out the profile inside the air intake and make it better. The best way for me to describe the increase in performance was like going from completely stock air box and filter, to adding an aftermarket filter and the deck plate mod. It was a definate improvement. I could really tell once I got out on the highway and started going up some of the hills aroung here.

So, that leave me wondering how to do this mod without cutting up the intake. Dr. Z's suggestion was to find the 2 rubber pieces off a 99-or newer 4Runner (parts 10 and 11 from the second picture in his other post) and then add the piece of pipe as he described in the write up. This should work great, but with two caveats: Right now, we need two 4Runner owners close to each other with the different year models to get together and compare the dimensions of everything and see if these parts will all fit. The second cavet is the price to buy these (parts 10 and 11). Everyone is interested in nearly free horsepower, right?

That being said, there is another option that should be alot cheaper and easier than finding all of these pieces, etc. I think you would get the same effect by simply placing some sort of thin-walled pipe inside the air tube and just clamp it off on either end to hold it in place. This would give you a nice smooth, uninterupted air passage. The trick is finding the right size pipe. From the measurements I've taken, you need something 2.75" O.D. with as thin as wall possible. This pice would need to be about 8.5" long. I haven't found the "perfect" solution yet, but I am still looking. Keep in mind you should still change the FPR tubes, as outlined in the writeup. If you try it the way I am suggesting, you will also need 2- 3" hose clamps. You could probably get way with using slightly smaller pipe, but I just didn't like the amount of play a smaller pipe had inside the intake. It also made the intake bunch-up too much when you clamp it down.

Anyway, this post is getting long, so I'll shut up. I just wanted to give some sort of update. Please ask questions and make suggestions! That's why we are here, right?

Cheers!

 

Tom,

Here's the wrecking yard's website:

http://www.nix99.com/

I spoke with Shawn.

Hope this helps.
Dr. Z

PS Thank you for your timely and informative response, Jayson.

 

Hey Guys,

Corey posted pics of the powder coated tube. Yeah, I know my engine is dirty...

You can see them here: https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...ntake/dr_z.htm

Enjoy!

Dr. Z

 

I just got to thinking about the noise factor, and that's one of the main reasons I'm choosing to remove my FIPK, in addition to the fact that it doesn't produce as good gains as the modified stock air boxes. But, I got to thinking about this resonator removal, and I think I'm going to try using Dynamat on the custom fabricated tube, until I get the sound down as much as possible. What do you all think? I'm just thinking that most of the resonating being heard in the cab is coming from the custom metal tube, so why not try to deaden that sound down a bit?

Chris

 

Chris, aren't you going to be installing your Supercharger soon? If you are, DO NOT do the intake mod. It doesn't make any performance gains and you will also get a real annoying whistle when under boost. The mod is great for the N/A guys because they aren't "pulling" air into the engine like the Supercharger does.

 

I am going to install my supercharger soon! But, I've got a FIPK now, so I didn't think it could get any worse than that. It's horribly loud. Where do you think the main whistly will come from? The metal tube or the end of the air filter? The reason I ask is that I don't have the stock air box, so I've got to purchase all the parts, whether they are all 1998 or mix in some of the 1999 parts to complete Dr. Z's modification. Don't know yet! How do you know there is no performance gain by removing the silencer with the supercharger?

Chris

 

I am not sure where the whistle sound is comming from, but the silencers get rid of it. I would email some of the people that have done Dr Z's mod and see if any of them will sell you the silencers, then buy the box and tube from partznet.com.

I didn't use any scientific methods to measure any gain in power I just drove it for 150 miles and it didn't feel any different. There could be a gain, but nothing that I could notice.

I think that there was someone else that did the silencer mod on their S/C 4Runner and had the same results as me.

With all the fuel/timing mods you are planning, your rig is going to be pretty powerful so the intake mod will probably not be noticable.

 

I wonder how I could find out who else has done it with a S/C? I'll email some folks to see, but I think I'm going to try it first without it. I'm used to the load noise the FIPK makes already, so I would assume it couldn't be any worse, but I could easily be wrong. Thanks for the info though. Is Partznet also called Conicelli?

Chris

 

Yep partznet is conicelli.
Well the good thing about that mod is that you can always change it back to stock if you need to. I tried to search for anyone else that has done it to a S/C'ed 3.4 but couldn't find the post.

If you currently have an FPIK, and you install the S/C you will most likely get the same whistle sound.


Edit:
I have noticed that 1st Toyota Parts has their parts for a little cheaper than Concelli, and they use the same part lookup diagrams. I ordered a few parts from them and the transaction went fine.

 

I'm definitely not going to keep the FIPK with the supercharger, because Gadget says it's not as good as the stock aribox with the modifications. I'll be selling it on this forum, I hope. Also, I found this shop that works strictly on Toyota Trucks where I'm going to get the parts for it? It's a lot cheaper that way.

Thanks,

Chris

 

i was checkin out this resonator mod, i have a 04 tacoma with a 3.4l, why cut the stock intake rubber tube, and replace it with a lil pvc or tubing, why not just cap off the hole left bye the resonator, believe it or not i used a gatorade cap, and i can put my resonator back on if i need to go to the dealer, this mod cost me nothing as i found the cap in a recycling bin at my apartment complex