Yeah I should have gotten them on here sooner . Just tilt your head to the left, I didn't rotate these.

Here's the ignition, but if you don't know where that is you shouldn't be allowed to drive. Unbolt the bolt pictured, the bolt across the steering wheel to the left, and the bolt directly below this bolt, pull the cover out, and it should be plenty of clearance.


Once in there, look straight in, and you should see something like this. I'm holding the unplugged harness, with intentions of leaving it unplugged. It plugs into the socket directly above it.


With my agile hands I could actually reach in from the bottom and replug this in... But it would take two hands to unplug it. Hope that helps a little more than just a description.

 

petros,

thanks i am sure these two pictures alone will help everyone

bob

 

so all you do is just unplug that?? sweet! thanks petros!

 

petros,

do you have an alarm and does it negatively affect its operation in anyway? that would be one thing i'd worry about, especially if it effects the signal to/from the door trigger

bob

 

wow sweet! I just got home from work about an hour ago and went straight to my 4runner. Got the bezel taken off (for other reasons) and then took the pannel off below the steering wheel, again. After looking at all the wiring i was clueless as what to unplug or cut. Thanks man! This was perfect timing!!!
Time to go try it out.

 

Success!

It's crazy how theres only one wire going to the door trigger/sensor/button (whatever it's called) but if you unplug it, you lose a few other functions. BUT if you unplug THREE wires at the ignition, you don't lose any funtions except the door ding and keys-left-in-the-ignition buzz. The dome light and lights-left-on warning (buzz) still works as normal.

I knew bumping this 4~ year old thread would be worth it.

I'm not done yet though. I think there still might be a way to get the key buzzer to work buy cutting a wire or two and plugging that little harness back in.

Also, you brought up a good point Bob...
I have an OEM Toyota alarm but i don't use it and never have. I plan on getting a Viper or similar alarm in the near furture so your question does pose a concern.

but for now, i'm satisfied with the results. My harness was a little different than what 'petros' posted.

It's the blue one you see way in the back:


another shot:


disconected: ...notice theres 3 wires but they go into 2 before the plug:


and one more:



I wonder if one of these 3 wires were cut, it might bring back the keys-left-in-the-ignition buzzer if it was plugged back in? :

 

oh yeah...i forgot about the "key sensor door locker" too.

I'm hoping that cutting one of the wires will still end the door buzzer but also allow the door locker/ignition/key buzz. I don't think anyone has tried this yet...

 

Well i found out that extra 3rd wire is just a dead end and not connected in any way... but i did try EVERY single possible combination with those wires and nothing worked. I even disconected the wires from the plug..put them together, touched one at the ingnition, touched the other, and used all three in MANY differnent combinations. They all either did the same as unplugging it, or the same as having it plugged in.

*So it goes like this...

You can either pull that plug and put an end to the door buzzer but risk locking your keys inside and possibly jeopardize an alarm system.
OR
You can deaden the noise on the buzzer itself but risk leaving your lights on. (i can't hear mine [lights left on] during the day like i thought i could with the Q-tip shoved in it)

Based on all the info provided, I've decided to leave my Q-tip in because I know i'm more likely to lock my keys in rather than leave my lights on (knock on wood) and i would think pulling that plug might cause a problem with an alarm.

As for heat concerns about having a q-tip inside the black box/buzzer...
First, the fibers from the q-tip are completely isolated to the buzzer alone.
Second, I did multiple tests last night. I let it continuously buzz for 15~ mintues with my parking lights on. I also let it ding for 10~ minutes with my door open. I then drove around for about 20~ mintues with the brights on, driving lights on, heater on, radio on, and dome light on all at once. It never even got warm and i was feeling it constantly.
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If somebody ever figures out the wiring to end just the "door-open" buzzer and nothing else, it sure would be nice.