is it difficult to install bilsteins?
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Hey all -- first time posting on this board, I like the layout =D
How difficult is it to install Bilstein shocks? (Now don't say "It's easy!" right away)
The only things I've installed were the Hella MicroDE foglights and a Hayden tranny cooler. I did all this in a parking lot and the only tools I have all fit in a small tool box (i.e., I have no powertools, I don't have a jack, etc...) (And did this with the extreme patience of several forum members hehe..
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I'm a quick learner though
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If it's too much to get, where/what auto store would you recommend getting this install done at? (i.e., would Pepboys do this? or the Toyota dealer? --doubt that one)
(And if you could point me to some links with "Shocks 101 for Dummies" writeups -- I've seen a few...)
Thanks!
#2
I installed 4 Bilsteins this weekend.
You will need :
* Good floor jack (3 ton)
* Good axle stands (I used 12000 lb stands)
* Metric wrenches and sockets
* Torque wrench
* Spring compressors
* Some kind of large pipe wrench for rotating rear shock body
* Your factory bottle jack
* Work bench will make the front struts much easier to woek on.
Best you go look at Jalaber's or Shaeffer's write ups.
Jalaber's detailed write up
Schaeffer's page with good pics
As for difficulty, I am a fairly competent home mechanic and installed tranny cooler, Supercharger, Addco's , TRD cat back etc myself. With the factory manual or good instructions, it rates as a 3 wrenches out of 5 !
David
You will need :
* Good floor jack (3 ton)
* Good axle stands (I used 12000 lb stands)
* Metric wrenches and sockets
* Torque wrench
* Spring compressors
* Some kind of large pipe wrench for rotating rear shock body
* Your factory bottle jack
* Work bench will make the front struts much easier to woek on.
Best you go look at Jalaber's or Shaeffer's write ups.
Jalaber's detailed write up
Schaeffer's page with good pics
As for difficulty, I am a fairly competent home mechanic and installed tranny cooler, Supercharger, Addco's , TRD cat back etc myself. With the factory manual or good instructions, it rates as a 3 wrenches out of 5 !
David
Last edited by nrgetic99; 07-25-2002 at 11:17 AM.
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Although disappointed I did not complete my shock replacement, it's actually not very difficult. I would recommend all the above (see previous post) with a good spring compressor. If I had a good one (or had done it before) I would have been more confident about the shock removal and completed it myself. If I install spacers at some point though, I will have to take this all apart again so I'll be looking forward to it next time.
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Hey thanks for the info...
How about if I was to get these installed? Where would I bring them and what do I need to tell the mechanic? (e.g., I read a post by HBoss sayin' how you don't tighten up some bolt until the rig is back on the ground... # foot-pounds, specs like that etc..)
Also..is there a #mileage when you recommend changing the factory shocks, or just change them when you feel their performance is bad?
How about if I was to get these installed? Where would I bring them and what do I need to tell the mechanic? (e.g., I read a post by HBoss sayin' how you don't tighten up some bolt until the rig is back on the ground... # foot-pounds, specs like that etc..)
Also..is there a #mileage when you recommend changing the factory shocks, or just change them when you feel their performance is bad?
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Again, this is something you can probably do yourself but be advised that coil springs under compression are a hazard. They can cause death and a 'friend of a friend' went to the hospital when the spring compressor snapped and he got the coil spring in the face. That's just what I've heard anyway...
Usually you can just change the shocks when performance degrades, I.E. hard nose-dive on heavy braking, bouncing all over the place, etc. or because you feel like improving the ride or handling. Shock life has a lot to do with the terrain it's subject to day in and day out.
I gave the mechanic guys specs on how the springs should look after being installed. You can probably just take before pics of the springs to show them how they are seated and that the springs should look the same (face the same direction) after replacing the shocks. I also gave them torque specs for all bolts involved. Finally, ask them to set the vehicle down before torquing the bottom shock bolts.
Usually you can just change the shocks when performance degrades, I.E. hard nose-dive on heavy braking, bouncing all over the place, etc. or because you feel like improving the ride or handling. Shock life has a lot to do with the terrain it's subject to day in and day out.
I gave the mechanic guys specs on how the springs should look after being installed. You can probably just take before pics of the springs to show them how they are seated and that the springs should look the same (face the same direction) after replacing the shocks. I also gave them torque specs for all bolts involved. Finally, ask them to set the vehicle down before torquing the bottom shock bolts.
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mr_manny
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07-31-2015 10:39 AM
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