Well I finally decided that 7 wires coming off the positive post of my battery was a bit out of control (4 sets of lights, alarm, electric fan, and my amp) so I went down the parts store and bought a 6 post fusible Buss. I wired it in up by the firewall. Now I only have one wire running from the battery to the buss. It's a much cleaner install and easier to maintain. If you've got a rats nest going on on your battery I would go this route to clean it up. I ran out of connectors to finish but tonite I should have 6 Hella 500's lighting the way. Anyone ever been pinched for the too many forward facing lights law? I plan to leave the covers on the ones up on my rack when out on the highway and only use the 2 on my pushbar for highway driving. Anyways that was my mod of the day. Don't ask for pics my digicam is still dead..... :pat:

 

Joey, with my 4 lights on the rig and no front licence plate, I have never been looked at by the state patrol or the locals.
I run no covers on my lights as you know except for the clear Hella ones.

Doing the fuse buss mod is great isn't it?
Really cleans up the jungle.

Mine is just for the wires I had in the cockpits fuse box.
I do have a 2nd one and will someday do it for the battery like you did.
I too have quite a few things on the terminals.

 

Ya Corey I'm glad that I did this mod. Forgot to mention it was inspired by your write-up on your site. I did the fusebox part a bit differently I just tapped into a wire that came on with the key to run my switches. That's a very low draw on them. I am wondering though how my other wire job is going to work. Basically I spliced into the wire that goes from the switch to the relay and made it have two ends so that I can run two relays from one switch. I don't see why it would be problem do you guys? Everything is double fused now with the buss so I'm not too worried about it.

 

Joey,

Maybe I didn't read correctly but did you put a fuse between the pos battery post and your Buss fuse box? If not, make sure you do.

How's everything going? You here in the States or somewhere else?

Bob

 

I am doing this in the next day or too as well.
I have spent the last few days hunting for 6 gauge wire (which NO ONE has) to go along with the Bussman HHX inline Maxi Fuse Holder between the Battery and the Fuse Panel. I finally had to go to the Audio Installer in my area and get some 8 gauge and the terminal ends. I will be soldering the HHX in between, near the Battery. Mods on the way!

 

Bob I haven't at the moment because the parts store didnt' have anything big enough for the 8 gauge I used. Going to have to goto an audio store and get an inline one.

 

I called Bussman and they told me of a retailer in my area that had the HHX

The HHX comes with 6 Gauge Wire attached, but I could not find that anywhere. I LOOKED. Only a few places online, and they all required getting full rolls.

Where did you find your #8?

 

Why is that important? It's like having 2 fuses in each line for whatever's connected to the fuse box. I'm just wondering cuz I used to have one inline with mine and got rid of it when I upgraded the wire going to the post.

 

Chris I talked to some mechanical buds of mine and they said the same thing. If anything were to get hot it would blow the fuse in the buss. Also everything coming out of the Buss is fused inline as well. If I put a fuse from the battery to the buss that would be 3 fuses. Am I missing something here? It would take something pretty serious to melt an 8 gauge wire that just goes straight from the battery to the buss with no breaks in between.

 

I have a fuse inline with my box.
It's an extra safety step.

If that wire from the battery to the box got scraped somehow and shorted out, you could have a fire.

The 6 fuses in the box in no way protects this if that happens, they are only for their circuits that hook to them.
An inline fuse will, and the fuse should be close to the battery.
In the circle.

 

The fuses you have only protect the circuit that uses power after the fuse. Unless you protect the line feeding power to the panel itself, that line is unprotected. You need a fuse, as Corey said, between the panel and the battery, as close to the battery as possibel. The wire between the fuse and the battery is unprotected too. That is why you need the fuse as close as possible, it means less unprotected wire.
CLICK HERE to see the best description I have seen on how fuses work.

 

The Painless 7 Circuit Fuse Block includes a circuit breaker that sits between the battery and the box.

Already worked once when I completed a circuit with an open ended wrench (between the breaker post and the ARB compressor).

Took a chunk out of the wrench and the compressor, but after it reset itself it was fine.

I suppose a breaker might cost more, but if you're prone to blowing a lot of fuses it might pay for itself after a short while...

Still scared me quite a bit though.




Meh, just thought I'd butt in with that little anecdotal gem.

^_^