Just a quick note, I did the deck plate mod this weekend with a 4" Beckson Deckplate. Following the instructions I found here, it was an easy job, and definitely notice some improvement in response. The sound of the engine when you get on the gas is great, sounds like you're driving a chevy V8. The ISR mod is next on the list

Question #1 - I notice some people pull the EFI fuse- I'm assuming this is to reset the system so the engine will adjust to the new airflow? Won't this happen overtime anyways without pulling the fuse?

Question #2- How many of you that have done this have put some type of screen over the hole to prevent big debri from getting in?

 

good job mad!!!
answer 1: yes about 2 tanks of gas to adjust
answer 2: ME!!!!!

 

I agree with Clin.

I pulled the fuse right away because I got a check engine light the first time I started the engine after the mod.

I also use a screen over the hole. An adjustable hose clamp fastens the screen real well to the back of the deckplate!

 

I was at Lowe's today, and bought a hose clamp for that purpose, but found out they don't sell screen by the foot, only by the roll! What did you guys use?

 

We had a roll of screen laying around cause for some odd reason, we always have holes in our window screen, so we replace them. I just cut a round piece about 5 inches in diameter and that worked great....you may be able to ask around, i'm sure one of your friends or neighbors have a roll...if all else fails, i'll send a piece

 

I am hoping to do this mod on friday!!! I can't wait! do you really think the sound has more kick to it? I am curious as to how it sounds.

 

1). Yes, but pulling the fuse seems to makes it adjust a little quicker from what I've seen.

2) No screen here.

 

I didn't seem to notice any real difference till I was getting onto the highway and really gave it some gas, when it shifts into passing gear (I have an automatic) I really hear it kick in. Its not real loud or obnoxious though. I still have the stock exhaust, if you have a custom exhaust it may not be as noticeable.

 

Actually, with my exhaust its MORE noticeable. I find it to be kind of harmonious!

 

I'm curious to hear your exhaust. Can you make a sound file of it?

 

My friend has a digital camera that will record sound, so its doable. Once I get the footage, what type of format do I put it in, and how do I post it here? (.AVI?)

I can do a short video, but how would I post that?

 

The DeckPlate only helps at the upper RPM range and higher speeds. At lower speeds, the IAT with the DeckPlate mod is much hotter than an unmodified Airbox since it is sucking in air from the Engine Bay. Once the truck begins to move, the Engine Bay is flushed with cooler air and the IAT begins to drop. I have monitored this phenomenon with my BR-2. The Temperature difference between idling and driving around is as much as 30* F.

When you're just sitting there idling or driving in traffic, the IAT is at least 77* and usually higher. Depending on the ambient temps, it can drop to below 50*. These figures only represent a DeckPlate modded IAT on a NA 3.4L 4Runner. I'd bet that on the S/C'd engines, the low-speed IAT is much higher.

If you want more low end grunt and midrange pull without sacrificing the top end, do the ISR mod in combination with the DeckPlate. It is MUCH louder under full throttle accleration, however. Some like it, others hate it.

I have recently made a change to the FPR hook-up for the ISR mod. You can read about it in this thread.

My .02
Dr. Z

 

In regards to the ISR mods for 96-98 runners, this is the next logical modification for me to do. I know that there were three possible ways to do it (duct tape, plumbing endcaps, and buying another intake hose from a newer 4-runner, then using the general protocol for '99 and newer. For 96-98, there are two boxes and a j-tube that need to be removed. It looks like would be difficult to splice in a piece of pipe that would remove all three, since the J-tube is very close to the elbow near the airbox. However, it seems like you could cap the J-tube and splice a pipe in the remaining portion to remove the other two resonator boxes. Has any tried this or have any suggestions?

 

Mad Chem:

I have a 96, so I know what you are talking about. Keep the stock intake pipe. Lowes sells plumping end caps that fit the J-Pipe and rear baffle box dang near perfectly. The J-Pipe end cap might seem a little small when you first put it in, but once you screw it down it wont come out of there. The rear baffle is a no brainer. Total cost at Lowes: $1.60

I am refraining from doing the ISR (front resonator box w/FPR hook up for now) The only reason is gas prices. I dont want to run premium gas at $2+/gal.

Otherwise, listen to Dr. Z, that mod works.

 

-I was at Lowes and found a cap that fit the J-tube well (1 1/4" maybe?). I had trouble finding something that would fit the other two boxes- do you know what sizes to use?

 

They could have been out of it. I know its white, and its REALLY small. I would say 1/2" (?) off the top of my head. Seriously, it fits in there perfect, you cant miss it.

I just pulled my rear baffle and J-pipe in the parking lot and brought them in the store. Then I looked around for about 20 minutes, trying to find the end caps with the best fit. Easy as that. I wonder if Home Depot would have them too...

 

Home depot is worth a shot. That's a good idea about bringing them in- I had some rough measurements, but they're so easy to pop off its worth doing a direct comparison.

Thanks!

 

IMHO, the best way to install a piece of fiberglass screen material when installing the deckplate is as follows:

1) Cut a circular piece of the screen material about the size of the outside circumference of the deckplate (+/- 5.5"),

2) Carefully place the piece of screen across the face of the +4" hole on the front of the air box, positioning it equidistant from side to side.

3) Take the deckplate and carefully press it into the hole with the screw holes already lined up so that you won't have to turn or twist the deckplate once you have it pressed into the hole.
Note: The procedure of pressing the deckplate into the airbox hole will cause the screen to be pressed snuggly into the hole.

4) Then all you have to do is screw it down and you are done.

There is no need to use a clamp or anything on the inside of the airbox to hold the screen in place.

I also used a piece of 1/2" adhesive backed foam insulation to make a tighter seal around the deckplate. I applied the insulation to the back of the deckplate trim ring using the outer edge as my guide. The foam is not dense and compresses easily.

FYI, the deckplate mod did not work for me because it radically leaned out the mixture and caused very poor performance results with my supercharger. I agree with what Dr. Z is saying about the mod being most effective at higher speeds, not unlike most ram air intakes. I also agree that it can cause the IAC temp to be higher at lower speeds. What someone needs to do now is design some sort of isolator for the front of the airbox to prevent the intake from ingesting air from the engine compartment.

 

Plans are in the works for this...

 

<96 Runner>, were you getting pinging with with both resonator boxes removed, but not with leaving front connected?