I've read most of the CV Joint repair/replace threads that I can find on here, 4x4wire and POR.

I've got a '96 SR5 4x4. The passenger side, inner boot has torn just above the smaller clamp around the circumfrence. I think I may have torn it after a trip through a "rock garden" on my last fly-fishing adventure. The joint it self "sounds" intact. The amount of time that the boot may have been torn could be 30-45 days.

I've never done this before. But, I have undertaken some moderate mechanical jobs (shock/struts, timing belt, coil springs, brakes, motor mounts, ect). There is also the issue of finding a 35mm socket and removing/replacing the nut to 174ftlbs with air tools.

So, after perusing all the information. What is the easiest method: repair current axel, replace with Toyota OEM ($400), or replace with Autozone/NAPA axel ($90)?? Are the Autozone/NAPA replacements are good as the OEM parts??

Thanks for advice.
Andrew

 

The AutoZone axels are just fine, they're not as strong as the OEM ones but if your not going to be putting them through alot of abuse I wouldn't worry about it. If you have the money then get OEM, but there's nothing wrong with the AutoZone one. I know plenty of people that still wheel on their AutoZone axel w/o any problem. I carry one for my spare.

 

You'll do fine... the work is really straight forward. and, thanks for researching first!


First off, do NOT pay the OEM pricing. The Napa/AutoZone is just perfect. I have a Shuck's on my right front and it's great. And $90 is a great price, I think mine was $105 plus a $100 core charge.


That axle nut has some interesting history and wants & wishes, hopes & dreams. First thing is that you may want to buy a 35 and a 36mm socket then returning the one that doesn't fit. I heard 36mm, bought one, and whle it grips fine, I think a 35mm would grip better. But I don't want to drop another $10 to find out.

If you approach them right, many parts stores will let you take things like sockets out of the store without paying for them. I know my local Shuck's will (but they know me by name!). That way, you can drive up with the dust cover off of the axle, pull the cotter pin and safety cover, then try the sockets right there to see which one is better for you.

You'll want to buy it as a 1/2" drive. I've seen them as 3/8" drive and it's just too much leverage to trust to a smaller drive ratchet. It may mean that you have to invest in a 1/2" drive ratchet (and a 4" extension to clear the tire!) but it'll be worth it.

Getting it off the first time is fun... have a breaker bar around - about a 2' length of pipe over the handle worked well for me.

After that, eventhing comes off pretty easily. When you put things back together, and get to that nut, I personally haven't worried about the 174ftlbs issue. I put the nut back on with the ratchet, tossed the breaker on it and hit it good, and then the safety nut and ran the cotter pin back through.

Now, I COULD have talked myself into buying a real compressor with an air gun based on the savings from buying a Schuck's axle, but... I couldn't really afford it.


GOOD LUCK!

 

I'd just repair your current axle with a toyota boot kit. The kit for my 2nd gen axle is about $25 member and employee of toyota of dallas, Strap. It's messy, but straight forward.

 

Replace the boots with OEM (P/N 04438-35060 -- $25.00).

 

Thanks for the advice from everyone.

I'm going to try this myself. I realized that I don't have to pull the housing for the inner tulip joint. I can leave it inplace, clean it out and just pull the remaining sections out. I was a bit worried about prying the inboard joint out with the C-clip attached (I could see it popping off/breaking inside the front diff).

Is moly grease OK for the splines when I reassemble everything?? I realize that each boot gets it's own specific grease.

Thanks
Andrew

 

The boot replacement kits are one fo the most worthy things that you can buy from the dealer and not get chastised for it on the forum. You really should buy one (or two!) and use the grease that comes with it. Then you'll know that things will be okay.

 

OK - got the old CV apart and relatively cleaned up. The outer joint still has a bit a grease left in it. But this joint was still sealed and not exposed. Got the kit from the dealer. Also, found a broken sway bar stabilizer at the same time.

The color of the old grease on the inboard joint was a light grey color and the outboard joint was a dark green color.

The kit from the dealer comes with two different grease colors - very dark grey/black and a brown/green (bile colored). So after reading old posts concerning this it seems that the "brown" grease is the outboard and the grey/black grease is the inboard. Is this correct??? Also, will I need to completely clean the outboard joint of all the old grease or just the major part of it since its boot wasn't torn.

Thanks for the advice.

Andrew

 

The outboard joint gets the Black grease. The inboard tulip joint gets the Yellow (at least mine was a yellowish-ocher color) grease.

 

Thanks for all the advice. The replacement of the boots when smooth - no issues.