95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

custom intake good or bad idea

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Old 08-01-2005 | 10:10 PM
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Elton's Avatar
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From: Siletz,Oregon
custom intake good or bad idea

i was thinking of having a muffler shop bend me up a 3ich exhaust pipe for a intake is this a good idea or a bad one please leave me any answers

Last edited by Elton; 08-01-2005 at 11:00 PM.
Old 08-01-2005 | 11:37 PM
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It's alright to use 3'' exhaust pipe for your intake, but as long as it dosen't have those folding kinks that your exhaust system has; not only is this alittle restrictive on airflow, it will look ugly as sin under your hood. Go for a nice, smooth bend like the ISR on Blu's intake. A mandrel bent pipe would be even better

Do some searching on the forums, you'll find plenty of information on the infamous ISR.

Last edited by fo_runner; 08-01-2005 at 11:39 PM.
Old 08-02-2005 | 12:05 AM
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its fine... however.... exhuast tubing isnt made to keep heat in, nor cold air in the pipe..... wrap it with some header wrap or similar so it wont get heat soak and warm your intake charge befroe it gets the cold fresh air into the tb
Old 08-02-2005 | 12:28 AM
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i made up my mind goin 2 have it made tommorw ill get back with the price sound etc
Old 08-02-2005 | 08:16 AM
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i did this, the pipe was really heavy, so i swapped it for a chevy blazer's cheap ebay intake tube (yes i had to cut it to fit)
Old 08-02-2005 | 08:19 AM
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Here's my ISR mod made w/ 3" exhaust tubing:



Works great!
Old 08-02-2005 | 11:33 AM
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I would like to how much you spent to have the pipe bent and all the fittings, ect...thanks...
Old 08-02-2005 | 02:30 PM
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will my mechanic told me it wont work he said it would mess up the computer
Old 08-02-2005 | 02:36 PM
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You could always have it cermacoated on the inside & out.
might be too much bling for some, so you could always rattle can the outside flat black. This should keep temps where they need to be.
the wrap idea should work too.......
Old 08-02-2005 | 02:55 PM
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Someone here on this board used a Ford diesel turbo tubing for his intake tube. I have mine just made out of electrical conduit and painted it black.
Old 08-02-2005 | 03:05 PM
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should i take the Air Silencer off or will it mess up the computer and kill my gas milage
Old 08-02-2005 | 05:02 PM
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I've been running mine for some time now with only positive effects (in temps from -38F to +98F). Like in all trades some technichans adhere too firmly to the rules and the way things should be while others experiment and look for the edge. Ingenuity and taking calculated risks are a few of the things that help build the performance market and in turn cause manufactures to take more indepth looks a what the consumer wants. In high school we put a 427 in a Chey II, the shop teacher said there was no way to modify the chassi, mounting locations, rear end, ect. wrong


http://tinypic.com/bifes

Last edited by Dublin; 08-02-2005 at 05:05 PM.
Old 08-02-2005 | 05:08 PM
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In high school we put a 427 in a Chey II, the shop teacher said there was no way to modify the chassi, mounting locations, rear end, ect. wrong
LOL...I had a neighbor that did that with a Vega station wagon. He went around the corner and hit the gas and it broke in half!!!!!

Oh here's mine:



Works fine

Last edited by ctcost; 08-02-2005 at 05:14 PM.
Old 08-02-2005 | 06:26 PM
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It won't destroy your computer or kill your mileage. It's just giving better airflow to the engine so it can breathe easier, thus giving you a little boost in throttle response, and intake noise. Your auctually improving your mileage, but sometimes it won't; unless your engine is well maintained.

Maybe the mechanic thinks the computer can't read the new airflow, and can only read the airflow that the car came with originally. My bro said the same thing your mechanic said. There are many people on this forum that have done an ISR, including me, on their trucks, they don't seem to have a problem.

The stock intake tube is the thing that kills your mileage
Old 08-03-2005 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by geneius
Here's my ISR mod made w/ 3" exhaust tubing:



Works great!
Did you even take the measurement of that bend or was it a guesstimate. I was ready tio measure mine but if you had it ... Getting ready to do the mod next week - $$.
Old 08-03-2005 | 06:59 AM
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From: Thornton, CO
Originally Posted by freejake3
Did you even take the measurement of that bend or was it a guesstimate. I was ready tio measure mine but if you had it ... Getting ready to do the mod next week - $$.
No guestimates at all. I followed Blu's intructions and used a 3" diameter flexible furnace tube from Home Depot to make the mockup.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/blu_intake/blu.htm



Old 08-03-2005 | 03:58 PM
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I guess I cheated, I took my rig down to the muffler shop and told the to bend me a pipe to fit. Took them about 2 minutes, afterwards one of the technichians asked if I would stop in when it was installed.
Old 08-03-2005 | 04:41 PM
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I am building a new intake out of 3" pvc drain pipe, nice & smooth, I already built a conversion fot the MAS to fit a 9" K&N conical filter on, louder but nice, good increase in HP when the timing is advances another 2 degrees


for dublin, how did you get the 33" tires to fit, do they rub much?
Old 08-03-2005 | 04:48 PM
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From: Thornton, CO
Originally Posted by celica
I am building a new intake out of 3" pvc drain pipe, nice & smooth, I already built a conversion fot the MAS to fit a 9" K&N conical filter on, louder but nice, good increase in HP when the timing is advances another 2 degrees
I am concerned that the muffler pipe I'm using is holding too much heat. I was going to look for a wrap of some sort for it, but your pvc drain pipe sounds like a cool idea. post pics when you're done, please.

Also, will it really increase HP by advancing timing by 2 degrees? How hard is that to do?
Old 08-03-2005 | 05:10 PM
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I noticed a lot better low end power with advancing it by two degrees. I used to plow snow with mine so I andvanced it. When I stopped plowing I put it back to stock timing and noticed less power and worse fuel economy. To advance it you will need to bridge the computer in the diagnostics module under the hood. It tells you which two to bridge (label is on the hood) I just use a paper clip, it works well. You will know when it is bridged as the engine changes tone and the check engine light will flash on the dash (it will also flash the codes if you have any). Once the computer is brdged then you can hook up your timing light to it and advance it from 10 degrees (stock) to 12. tou will notice a change in the engine noise. to change the advance you need to loosen the distrbutor and rotate it very slightly. I will post pics when I am done but it will be a while.



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