Crawler gears in a 3rd gen?
02-09-2010, 05:40 PM
#21
Yes, he is figuring in his trans which has a ~4:1 first gear *edit oops, saw he has a 2001 4runner Auto. Not sure what first gear is?
My setup goes like this:
4.31 (First gear 5sp turbo trans) X 2.28(first case) X 4.0 (second case) X 4.10 (current diffs)= 161:1
When I install 4.88 gears it will be 191:1
Assuming I didn't have the 4.0 second case, my setup would only be ~40:1 stock, or 83:1 if I only had ONE 4.7 case
Since he doesn't have a doubler, or a turbo trans, his final will only be 40-60:1 (not sure what his first gear or case is)
My setup goes like this:
4.31 (First gear 5sp turbo trans) X 2.28(first case) X 4.0 (second case) X 4.10 (current diffs)= 161:1
When I install 4.88 gears it will be 191:1
Assuming I didn't have the 4.0 second case, my setup would only be ~40:1 stock, or 83:1 if I only had ONE 4.7 case
Since he doesn't have a doubler, or a turbo trans, his final will only be 40-60:1 (not sure what his first gear or case is)
Last edited by DeathCougar; 02-09-2010 at 05:42 PM.
02-09-2010, 05:43 PM
#22
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Yes, he is figuring in his trans which has a ~4:1 first gear *edit oops, saw he has a 2001 4runner Auto. Not sure what first gear is?
My setup goes like this:
4.31 (First gear 5sp turbo trans) X 2.28(first case) X 4.0 (second case) X 4.10 (current diffs)= 161:1
When I install 4.88 gears it will be 191:1
Assuming I didn't have the 4.0 second case, my setup would only be ~40:1 stock, or 83:1 if I only had ONE 4.7 case
Since he doesn't have a doubler, or a turbo trans, his final will only be 40-60:1 (not sure what his first gear or case is)
My setup goes like this:
4.31 (First gear 5sp turbo trans) X 2.28(first case) X 4.0 (second case) X 4.10 (current diffs)= 161:1
When I install 4.88 gears it will be 191:1
Assuming I didn't have the 4.0 second case, my setup would only be ~40:1 stock, or 83:1 if I only had ONE 4.7 case
Since he doesn't have a doubler, or a turbo trans, his final will only be 40-60:1 (not sure what his first gear or case is)
02-10-2010, 05:12 AM
#23
Yeah I've got a crawl ratio of 53.7, and with a 4.7 i have 98.21. I think all i'll be wanting is doubles with 2.28's when i swap
double 2.28 - 108 crawl ratio
ultimate double - 224 crawl ratio
With a 4.7 you will be a tad bit slower than i am, so if your gonna go lefty, just go ahead and do 4.7 in it.
double 2.28 - 108 crawl ratio
ultimate double - 224 crawl ratio
With a 4.7 you will be a tad bit slower than i am, so if your gonna go lefty, just go ahead and do 4.7 in it.
Last edited by crolison; 02-10-2010 at 05:15 AM.
02-10-2010, 01:19 PM
#24
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I'm pretty sure I just blew up my center differential and likely hosed my transfer case on a run yesterday.
I have a 2001 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto. I thought I broke a CV when I heard that distinct metal thunk but both CVs are fine. The output shaft from the t-case was turning when I checked it on the trail but neither of my front tires were spinning. I have open diffs front and rear and the only tire that was spinning was one in the rear. I put it back into 2hi figuring it was either my center diff or my front diff and after a winchfest we got to a gentle enough grade to get back on the pavement. On the highway it went back into 4wd but the center diff wouldn't lock. After a few miles it was apparent that the center diff was not going to lock. When I tried to put it back into 2WD The 4WD indicator in the dash instrument cluster stayed flashing indicating that it's not able to complete the task. A few miles later on the highway around a curve to the right I heard my first clunk. It got progressively worse from there. The occasional clunking noise was coming from center front around where the t-case is and would often clunk a few times as I was going around a curve. By the time I got home it was clunking when I slowed to 10 - 20 mpg as well as any turns or curves. When I hopped out of my rig at my house I could smell gear oil. Guess I should have bought a '99 or 2000 lol
Before I go out and jump the gun and start buying parts. Is there anything else you can think of that I should check to diagnose and make sure it really is the t-case and not the front diff or something else?
If I can find a low security bank to rob or a politician to blackmail I'm thinking the inchworm Lefty with twin sticks would be a good choice. It'd be nice to get the lower gears, remove the weak link center diff, and be one step closer to a flat belly.
Assuming I do need to repair/replace the t-case any suggestions on my options are at this point?
Any other links that you know of to t-case info is welcome as well.
It was just suggested to me that a 4.7:1 might actually be too low a gear for basic things like snow bashing, and keeping up with the rest of the group in a trail run. He was saying that 4.7:1 is so low that I may be reving high just to keep up with the stock t-cased rigs. Anyone running 4.7s that can verify or debunk this?
I have a 2001 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto. I thought I broke a CV when I heard that distinct metal thunk but both CVs are fine. The output shaft from the t-case was turning when I checked it on the trail but neither of my front tires were spinning. I have open diffs front and rear and the only tire that was spinning was one in the rear. I put it back into 2hi figuring it was either my center diff or my front diff and after a winchfest we got to a gentle enough grade to get back on the pavement. On the highway it went back into 4wd but the center diff wouldn't lock. After a few miles it was apparent that the center diff was not going to lock. When I tried to put it back into 2WD The 4WD indicator in the dash instrument cluster stayed flashing indicating that it's not able to complete the task. A few miles later on the highway around a curve to the right I heard my first clunk. It got progressively worse from there. The occasional clunking noise was coming from center front around where the t-case is and would often clunk a few times as I was going around a curve. By the time I got home it was clunking when I slowed to 10 - 20 mpg as well as any turns or curves. When I hopped out of my rig at my house I could smell gear oil. Guess I should have bought a '99 or 2000 lol
Before I go out and jump the gun and start buying parts. Is there anything else you can think of that I should check to diagnose and make sure it really is the t-case and not the front diff or something else?
If I can find a low security bank to rob or a politician to blackmail I'm thinking the inchworm Lefty with twin sticks would be a good choice. It'd be nice to get the lower gears, remove the weak link center diff, and be one step closer to a flat belly.
Assuming I do need to repair/replace the t-case any suggestions on my options are at this point?
Any other links that you know of to t-case info is welcome as well.
It was just suggested to me that a 4.7:1 might actually be too low a gear for basic things like snow bashing, and keeping up with the rest of the group in a trail run. He was saying that 4.7:1 is so low that I may be reving high just to keep up with the stock t-cased rigs. Anyone running 4.7s that can verify or debunk this?
Hope that helps somehow.
02-10-2010, 01:31 PM
#25
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If he goes with either a non-diff transfer case or the Lefty, does he have to do anything to the sensor so the computer doesn't keep looking for the center diff? Or is it not connected to the computer?
02-10-2010, 01:46 PM
#26
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If your truck is a 2001 SR5, you will not have a center differential (aka vicous coupling, in the case of the VF3AM transfer case). All SR5's are part time 4WD, meaning no center diff. It's the 4Runner Limited that had the center differential and the little button on the side of the stick.
Hope that helps somehow.
Hope that helps somehow.
I'm got pulled away for work so now I won't have the garage and time to look at it until Saturday 2/13/10 to figure out if it's the t case or the front diff.
Last edited by glenyoshida; 02-10-2010 at 02:28 PM.
02-10-2010, 02:38 PM
#27
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Also need to figure out how to trigger the ADD to lock it in. You will want to be able to switch it on and off. It will need to be turned on when stopped and then you can go into 4 wheel drive while moving.
02-12-2010, 01:54 PM
#28
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Hrmmmm
Not wanting to get pistol whipped, but why don't more Yota Guys go the Atlas route?
Seems like cost wise, you'd get a bullet proof t-case with more gearing options for same money no?
Just curious....
Seems like cost wise, you'd get a bullet proof t-case with more gearing options for same money no?
Just curious....
02-12-2010, 02:40 PM
#29
gotta mod the crap out of your floor and relocate seat mounts to get one of those big boys to fit under the truck..... plus yota stuff is pretty strong as is
02-13-2010, 09:14 AM
#30
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But, with a 4k price tag for the 4speed, the yota stuff is a bit cheaper.
03-17-2010, 05:52 PM
#31
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Well Gerdo and I tore into it. The passenger front CV was broken inside the ADD. We tried taking it apart to remove the broken piece of inner axle but the ADD tube is not a tube that goes all the way through it's more like a tube with one end capped. I ended up getting a used diff with the ADD tube from Oleg at Irbis for $250. I figured I might as well take advantage of the ARB free compressor offer while the thirds are out and gears are going in. I got a smokin' deal from Toytec. So off I went, low on plasma, little swimmers, and now my left arm but I was able to drop off the front and rear ARB air lockers with the Nirto Brand 4.88s gears.
We got it all back together today and it still has a problem. It can't get out of 4WD and go into 2WD. It is able to go in and out of 4Hi and 4Lo. The center diff seems to be locked and won't unlock. When I take a sharp turn slow or crawl speeds I can feel the drive train build up (haven't tried it at high speeds for fear of breaking new stuff). I also noticed that it felt like it slipped out of gear with a gear grinding sound when reversing up a slight hill to the street. So I think at this point I'm just going to get a used 2001-2001 transfer case and swap them out. Fun stuff. Wheeling is cheap.
We got it all back together today and it still has a problem. It can't get out of 4WD and go into 2WD. It is able to go in and out of 4Hi and 4Lo. The center diff seems to be locked and won't unlock. When I take a sharp turn slow or crawl speeds I can feel the drive train build up (haven't tried it at high speeds for fear of breaking new stuff). I also noticed that it felt like it slipped out of gear with a gear grinding sound when reversing up a slight hill to the street. So I think at this point I'm just going to get a used 2001-2001 transfer case and swap them out. Fun stuff. Wheeling is cheap.
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