Alright so I jumped into my drive shaft teardown today to replace what I think is a bad carrier bearing. The drive shaft has been chirping for some time now upon acceleration. I originally checked all of the u joints for any slop and all seemed to be solid. So, I deduced my problem was a worn carrier bearing. (As well, I have never had vibration issues whatsoever, even at highway speeds)

Got the intermediate shaft off the truck and noticed when I wiggled the center bearing assembly it seemed loose; it had play, and it wasn't just the rubber dampener. Spun the bearing, and it was smooth, but I could hear light ticking inside the bearing. But, I could not get it to reproduce the chirp I had. So it's off waiting for the new one to arrive.

Climbed back under the truck and wiggled the propeller shaft around, and when I moved it up and down about the u joint, it squeaked, almost like a dry rubber sounding squeak. Similar to what I heard while driving. So I played with the u joint at every angle I could, held the yoke steady and tried to get some slop out of it, even if it was slight. No go, the joint is solid.
I have a $130 carrier bearing coming, and the u-joint seems to be solid. (Oh I have greased the whole driveshaft so that wouldn't be it). I'm going to replace the carrier for good measures, but would hate to get it all assembled to have that damn chirp again. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have gone through all the symptoms of a worn u-joint, and none of these seem to show on this joint (going into diff). Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks guys!

 

sounds like a bad u joint. the uj doesn't have to have slop to be bad. when greasing them sometimes grease wont make its way into 1 or more of the caps and eventually it starts squeaking. and usually when that carrier bearing go's out it don't make noise. just vibrates like a mofo.

 

When I greased that u joint grease did come out of all the 4 locations...although I saw it come out is it still possible it's not working itself in there?

 

if you seen it come out of all 4 corners then its probably lubed.
did you check/grease the other u joint?

 

Yeah they are all well greased. I do notice however that the one that squeaks seems to be tighter than the rest of them, a symptom of a bad joint. Seeing that I'm on a budget and just dropped $130 on a part that may/may not fix the problem, should I just do the problematic one, or go for the front too? It's not hard to get the driveshaft out, but i wonder how much time I have on the good one...

 

well ime, the diff u joint go's out first. but 2 ujoints are cheaper than a carrier bearing.

 

Hey I appreciate all of the info. Unfortunately the bearing is coming tomorrow so that's already paid for. Looks like 2 u joints and a bearing now. I haven't done a u joint before and I've been doing a lot of reading and I hear they are a real PITA to pound out. I don't have any special tools so it looks like I'll be using the socket and BFH method. Got any tips before I go for it? Will be bracing under the welds at the end of the tubing. By pounding them out do I risk any bending of the yoke issues? It seems to be a tried and true method for the weekend mechanic...

 

I would just replace the u-joints while your at it. They wont set you back that many bones.

 

don't worry about bending it, i beat the snot out of them before. yes a socket and a hammer are the bear essentials and will do the job. do you have a vise?

 

A buddy of mine does. I've seen it used two ways....to hold the yoke in place while tapping the cups out, and also seen it used to hold the cup when you get enough exposed and then tap the yoke or shaft until that cup comes fully out from its press fit. I think I was going to try it this way because I'm not sure if vice grips will do the trick...I'm sure it's welded into place with rust...

 

yep, thats what i do. ohh after you get the new joint fully installed (clips and all), make sure it moves FREELY. if it don't, use your socket and hammer and tap on each cap(checking for stiffness each time) until it's smooth.

 

Yeah is that to make sure the clips are sitting fully against the inside of the yoke? Hey appreciate all your help. Gonna go after it here for the next couple days. Along with the bearing, rotors, pads, and a bleed.

 

no problem..

no, its to make sure that the u joint itself is not binding up on the end of the caps.

basically you can beat the caps in to far, and the u joint will be stiff feeling. after fully installed, if it feels stiff just tap on each cap until the joint moves FREELY.

 

Weill, got the two u joints replaced today. You really do have to beat the piss out of them. The second one went a lot better needless to say. And a hand sledge is key.

Also go the brakes done today. Waiting now to tighten the intermediate shaft nut to specs then slap the intermediate shaft back on. I should be in business after that. I plan to do the bleeding another day as I feel like dog crap. Took a day off work to get better and ended up hammering on stuff all day.

I can still hear the sound in my head...

 

yea they can be stubborn..

glad to here its coming along!