HighLux

I would go oem head gasket. Get the block decked. Its pretty rough.
Using a spray adhesive is a bad idea on a cast block and aluminum head

Yota_Stomper

thanks... didn't say that on the dang can though... it says here
so... I didn't cover up the bolt holes... or the cooling channels... and now they have a nice pretty golden overspray in them. Everything else was covered nicely... I can only hope for the best at this point... here's how it came out.

Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


Overview


I think it looks much better... between that and the coated gasket that should hold the seal... and it looks pretty!!

Yota_Stomper

yeah you mentioned that.

No. I'm not gonna remove the engine and machine the block.. would replace engine or junk the truck b4 i did that. but yes ideally that would be the correct way to do it.

too late now... I'm just gonna have to hope for the best.

rworegon

My guess is it works out just fine.

Yota_Stomper

Oh God!

I just unpacked the head an found a note... sorry we only found 9 head bolt washers in the head!!!

you think that's something they may have mentioned when I picked it up! ARRG!!!

So.. I don't know WTF to do at this point... I don't know how the hell I"m supposed to put this thing back together missing a head bolt washer.

Texas_Ace

You must have the washer, drop by the local toyota dealer, they should have them in stock. Might even find one at a parts store. Do not use anything but the correct washer.

Yota_Stomper

Thank you... I kinda already knew that... that's why I'm so unbelievable pissed right now. You think that was something the shop should have mentioned...

which means I can't even start to put this POS back together until wed....
and I need this done by thursday at the latest...

basically.. it ain't gonna happen

Texas_Ace

You could see if the parts stores have one tomorrow, if so then you are in luck. I would not even try to get it back together in 1 day, rushing things like this is how you screw up.

Rent/barrow a car if you have to until you have more time to work on it.

mopar_runner

i would suggest getting the head bolt set from the auto parts store that includes the washers. The original bolts are TTY (torque to yeild). Re-using them should not even be a consideration, and it seems now you need a washer anyway. Think of it this way.... how much is it worth to you to not have to replace the gasket again 10,000 miles from now when the used bolts stretch too much.

B-Fake

For paper type gaskets I like to use the black Permatex gasket sealer, but yeah, head gasket and any other metal or crush type gaskets should be dry. For rubber seals and gaskets I just coat them with a little oil so they're less prone to cracking or tearing with age.

Yota_Stomper

This is exactly what I did. After my tantrum I checked and realized that the fel-pro set comes with washers... and it was in stock and the store was open... so I jammed down there and got them.

I realized on the way home that this must have been providence. I was supposed to get new bolts... or at least that's what I kept telling myself to keep my sanity.

but when I matched the length of my bolts to the new ones I saw that my used bolts were about 1/8 to 1/4 inch longer... from the stretch I'm sure. When I saw that I realized I really was hopping over dollars to save pennies and that buying the new bolts was the right move.

Apparently someone up there is looking out for me.

So the head is installed and all the bolts tightened up in several passes in order. First finger tight, then to 20 ft. lbs. then to 29 ft. lbs... always in order. Then after painting a marker dot on all the bolts I turned them all 90 degree's in order.. and then another 90 degree's after that..



Then I go to install the cam shafts and I read how I'm supposed to use camshaft installation lube... the FSM says MP grease... WTH is that!??!

moly based lube or multi-purpose grease? anyways I don't have any.. I've heard that you can just use engine oil it you're going to fire up the engine right away.. but that if you let the engine sit the oil will just come off and you should use MP grease if you're letting it sit.

So.. it's late... I'm not gonna finish this tonight... so I think it's a good stopping point.. I"ll start tomorrow... however, when I start tomorrow...

Is engine oil OK to use.. or should I go buy some MP grease / camshaft install lube?

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

Multipurpose grease is great to have around anyway, so go grab some if you want. I used clean motor oil because that's what the guy who did my head for me recommended.

I think you made the right call on the bolts. Spending money and taking more time always sucks, but once you're done and driving again I think you'll be glad you spent the coin to do it right.

Texas_Ace

Yes, you need some grease. I prefer lithium grease personally for most things but plain moly works fine too. Pour a quart of oil over all the moving parts in the head just before putting the valve cover on to lube everything. Also make sure EVERYTHING is spotlessly clean before you install the cams.

Yota_Stomper

Hey guys... ok so I put the camshafts back in was really careful... followed the directions of the FSM and Haynes.... lubed her up really nice with oil and black lithium MP (multi purpose) grease.

Timing marks aligned at TDC, straight pin's are up... I triple checked everything... then comes the time to put the timing chain and sprocket back on... and guess what... it looks like this



I don't get it.

It's like the timing chain somehow got moved... when I was removing every thing, I it aligned at TDC with the sprocket aligned with the white paint mark I made on the timing chain for TDC... the link in the chain I painted was at the highest point... Now it is not!!

So the only way I could get the sprocket on with the camshafts aligned in TDC was to turn the sprocket independent of the timing chain by one link to align the sprocket to TDC.

Now here is the thing.. I know I left the block in the position of TDC.. it has NOT moved or turned over... therefore the block is at TDC.... the camshafts are definitely at TDC... the Sprocket (since I turned it) is at TDC....
--BUT--
The old paint mark for TDC on the timing chain is off by a link.

By my reasoning this should not matter... if the engine, cam shafts, and sprocket are all TDC, then it's TDC, even if the arbitrary mark on the timing chain is off by a link. I could simply remove the paint mark and make a new one... but I really want someone to confirm that my logic is correct here.

My best guess is that with the chain and sprocket sitting loose on the chain guides for several days at some point the timing chain must have been loose enough on the bottom sprocket (crankshaft timing gear?) that it somehow slipped over one link. I just don't see how else this could have happened since the engine didn't move.

Can someone please confirm this and tell I'm not taking crazy pills

nctom

Similar thing happened to me. You can confirm the crank is at tdc with the timing mark. You can confirm the cams are at tdc with their reference dots or notches. At that point the paint on the chain is just decoration.

Texas_Ace

Anytime you mess with the timing belt/chain you need to start from scratch and not just assume that things are correct.

First verify TDC, then verify cam timing, then put it all together. They should cover this in the FSM. You can check TDC like was said above by the crank pully or if you want to get old school stick a socket extent ion into the #1 plug hole and rotate until the piston is at TDC, not as accurate though.

Yota_Stomper

OK Guys figured out the problem... Yes the manuals said it.. but for some reason things didn't click until this morning... the timing marks on the crankshaft down on the block indicate the block is at TDC.

I just kept thinking the block had to be at TDC because I left it there... well... it wasn't there... I think I know what happened... when I was putting the head on the head got stuck on the damn timing chain and sprocket and it must have turned the timing chain when I put the head on...

Part of the reason I wasn't thinking of that was that I had not turned the crankshaft pully the whole time because I can not reach it with my radiator fan guide in the way... I had removed all the bolts but wasn't going to remove the and radiator just to get to it...

However... I had removed the bottom two skid plates the other day and could now see it from the bottom of the truck and realized that the plastic radiator fan guide has plastic clips to remove the bottom of it.... once that was removed I could easily get on to the crankshaft pully and set it back to TDC...

NOW... everything is lined up perfectly.



Also... a quick side note... something that I should have mentioned earlier...

this is NOT in the FSM or the Haynes Manual. and it's important as can be.. so I don't know WTH no one has it mentioned.


But there was a nice little thorn in my side in the form of a sensor that was blocking one of the head bolt. Thus is it impossible to remove or install the Cylinder head without addressing this, yet neither the FSM or Haynes have ANY mention of it




A google search on -- 3rzfe sensor blocking head bolt
gave this link http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/sh...category=19385
which gave this pic


which told me this was the camshaft position sensor... Now all you guys are probably thinking, "Pfft... of course that's the cam position sensor! Hell everyone knows that!"
Well that maybe... but Haynes and FSM don't mention it and I had no idea WTF it was.


When I was removing all of the electrical plugs I had one (several actually) that were completely stuck and I couldn't get off...
So to get this one off I had to take my channel locks to it... in order to soften it up and help pull it off... as you can guess it, it was the camshaft position sensor and it broke.



Since the mystery sensor is NEVER mentioned anywhere I didn't know at that time, that you can just unscrew it and remove it intact from the engine. As you can see the bolt that holds it in is nicely hidden in the back of the sensor so that you can't easily see it unless the engine compartment is stripped bare and you're looking at it from the back side. Pictured above is the replacement. I didn't think it was broken that badly.. and I would have reused it... except it had cracked along the base of the sensor that acts as a seal against the cylinder head.. so with this sensor broken you can't seal the cylinder head and you're screwed.

I knew I had to replace it... but I didn't know what is was called since it's not mentioned anywhere... Well $56 bucks and several hours later the problem is fixed. I felt like sharing this with everyone because I'm sure down the line there will be some other poor sucker like me, who might benefit from this info

Texas_Ace

Looking good! Be sure to rotate the engine a few times now that it is together before putting the valve cover back on to make sure everything is ready to go.

Yota_Stomper

Manually ???

or with the ignition?

just put the chain tensioner on... took me 30 minutes to remove the old chain tensioner gasket... it was fused at a molecular level... heh... chain tensioner on... torqued to spec...

but it got me thinking...

My torque wrench is a lil tweaky... 10-150 ft lbs... but down at 10-20 ft. lbs. it doesn't give a really clear click more felt than heard.. but I really have to pay close attention to feel it.

anyways... I felt it pretty clear when torquing the chain tensioner... but when I was tightening the camshaft bearing caps... it was VERY arbitrary... and I kept thinking... sheeze! 12 ft. lbs. in NOT a whole helluva lot! and I just keep having bad thoughts about it not being tight enough and having one the bearing caps come off and ruin the engine.

I checked them more than once... think I'll check them one more time.. but it seems to me 12 ft. lbs is a lil loose for those.

Texas_Ace

Yes, turn it over manually. Much better to find a problem now turning it manually then later when you try to start it.

It is not much torque at all on the bearing caps. It is a little disconcerting the first time for sure. Overtighten then though and you can make the tolerances too tight and cause other problems.

When the aluminum heats up it expands and will grip the bolt tighter.