clutch troubles...
#1
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clutch troubles...
my clutch started acting really wierd today all of a sudden. i dont think its giving out completely because all of a sudden it just started letting out really roughly. its only starting out, not switching gears... i dont really know what it is im hoping it will just go away. so if anyone has any ideas let me know.. i can give some more info if you need too. thanks.
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well nobody's said anything so here's a few more details...
i can get it to start out smoothly but its hard i have to have the gas just right, and usually it'll start to shake before i get the clutch all the way out. i was comin home today and was shifting into 4th.... i had the clutch all the way in, and it was just making a grinding sound. went back into 3rd no problem, and when i went to ˟˟˟˟ up again it was fine. i've got my 30,000 mile tune-up coming up soon so hopefully they'll fix it then.
one more thing... what do i need to do for the 30,000 mile tune up. do i just take it in to the dealer and they'll do it??
thanks a lot..!
i can get it to start out smoothly but its hard i have to have the gas just right, and usually it'll start to shake before i get the clutch all the way out. i was comin home today and was shifting into 4th.... i had the clutch all the way in, and it was just making a grinding sound. went back into 3rd no problem, and when i went to ˟˟˟˟ up again it was fine. i've got my 30,000 mile tune-up coming up soon so hopefully they'll fix it then.
one more thing... what do i need to do for the 30,000 mile tune up. do i just take it in to the dealer and they'll do it??
thanks a lot..!
#3
Rowan, I have driven sticks all my life up until late '98 when I got the Runner.
It sounds like a glazed clutch assembly to me.
The grinding could also be the throw out bearing.
I only had to have a clutch replaced once in my life, and that was my first car I got back in '75, a '68 Chevelle.
We had a stock one put back in.
If you replace yours, stock is probably best, unless you get the right aftermarket one.
Many report problems after going with an aftermarket one.
It sounds like a glazed clutch assembly to me.
The grinding could also be the throw out bearing.
I only had to have a clutch replaced once in my life, and that was my first car I got back in '75, a '68 Chevelle.
We had a stock one put back in.
If you replace yours, stock is probably best, unless you get the right aftermarket one.
Many report problems after going with an aftermarket one.
#4
As far as 30,000 mile tune up goes:
-oil & filter change
-replace differential(s) oil
-replace t-case oil
-replace tranny fluid
-replace spark plugs
-new air filter
-rotate tires and balance
..maybe a few other things, but that is a good start. By the way, almost all of this stuff you can do yourself - no need to pay the dealer.
-oil & filter change
-replace differential(s) oil
-replace t-case oil
-replace tranny fluid
-replace spark plugs
-new air filter
-rotate tires and balance
..maybe a few other things, but that is a good start. By the way, almost all of this stuff you can do yourself - no need to pay the dealer.
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Originally posted by rowan
it'll start to shake before i get the clutch all the way out.
it'll start to shake before i get the clutch all the way out.
Not sure from your description on the grinding but it might be your throwout bearing starting to wear out. When/if you get the clutch replaced make sure they also replace both the throwout and pilot bearings, surface the flywheel and replace the pressure plate. The pilot bearing is the one that's pressed into the end of the crankshaft and hels support the transmission input shaft.
Stock is a safe bet on the clutch, Marlin's set gets good reviews. Centerforce and most other aftermarket ones get mixed reviews.
Last edited by Shane; 02-01-2003 at 01:08 PM.
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Duct tape it!!!! I like Red Green too...
Of course I'm kidding here. Shane brings up a good point in a clutch install that a lot of folks ignore for some reason. Grinding, or turning the flywheel contact surface. It's really important to the life of the new clutch AND to determine if the flywheel surface has "hard spotted".
It sure sounds like a clutch problem from the description.
Mike
Of course I'm kidding here. Shane brings up a good point in a clutch install that a lot of folks ignore for some reason. Grinding, or turning the flywheel contact surface. It's really important to the life of the new clutch AND to determine if the flywheel surface has "hard spotted".
It sure sounds like a clutch problem from the description.
Mike
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well it only did it into 4th gear once... today it seems to be a little bit better. i'll probably take it to the dealership where i bought it and have them do all that stuff...except for the oil.
corey, whats a glazed clutch?
thanks for all other feedback too!
corey, whats a glazed clutch?
thanks for all other feedback too!
#9
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Originally posted by Shane
Stock is a safe bet on the clutch, Marlin's set gets good reviews. Centerforce and most other aftermarket ones get mixed reviews.
Stock is a safe bet on the clutch, Marlin's set gets good reviews. Centerforce and most other aftermarket ones get mixed reviews.
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