Clutch Master replaced, pedal has no travel
01-24-2010, 05:42 PM
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Clutch Master replaced, pedal has no travel
Hello all,
1996 4Runner - 5spd.
So I've searched the forum for this topic to no avail. Hope you guys have opinions.....ha ha. My clutch pedal went to the floor the other day and I limped home. I replaced both the master and the slave as they were both original. That fixed the problem. (I'm pretty sure it was the master although the slave had a little rust inside too)
My question is... Why is the pedal all at the bottom now. Engagement and disengagement is all in about 3/4 of an inch at the bottom. I bleed the units twice and still the problem. The adjuster on the pedal as I understand will not help this issue.
So now what? Bleed again.
Thoughts......
1996 4Runner - 5spd.
So I've searched the forum for this topic to no avail. Hope you guys have opinions.....ha ha. My clutch pedal went to the floor the other day and I limped home. I replaced both the master and the slave as they were both original. That fixed the problem. (I'm pretty sure it was the master although the slave had a little rust inside too)
My question is... Why is the pedal all at the bottom now. Engagement and disengagement is all in about 3/4 of an inch at the bottom. I bleed the units twice and still the problem. The adjuster on the pedal as I understand will not help this issue.
So now what? Bleed again.
Thoughts......
01-25-2010, 04:41 AM
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FWIW, I had a heck of a time fixing the master/slave system on my '97. I went through at 3 replacement slaves, a master and a new hard line before it as worked. I've *heard* that it is not uncommon for either the mc or slave to have faulty seals out of the box.
01-25-2010, 05:40 AM
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This is a thought that makes me want to go off........I'm going to do a reverse bleed on the system today and see if that works. I've read all these threads that go on and on about bleeding 3,4 and 5 times. Unreal. I have a Power Bleeder so I'll be attaching it to the slave instead of the master and do the job in reverse. Maybe the air bubbles will pop out of the master especially is that's where the air pockets are. It amazes me I'll be using a second quart of fluid for this......
01-25-2010, 06:38 PM
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well the job is done and all is working again. I ended up bleeding the system, reverse bleeding the system and re-bleeding the master by cracking the outlet tube with my power bleeder attached. Following all of this I adjusted the pedal travel. The result is a pedal that feels as it always did. Smooth clutch action, good gear engagement etc. What an ordeal.....but a shop would have charged lots of labor and I probably would have had to take it back for re-bleed and adjustment anyway. Besides I know its done right and all is buttoned up correctly.
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