Clicking sound on my 22re
#1
Clicking sound on my 22re
Whenever I drive my 4runner I fequently hear a clicking sound comming from my engine. Part of the problem was an exhaust leak comming from my headers. After I fixed that I still am hearing the noise. I have heard that it could be the rocker arms. I also think it could be the timing chain. If it were the rocker arms, could I just adjust them or would they have to be replaced. If they did have to be replaced how much would they cost and what else would have to been done to do it correctly? If it were the timing chain what would be the best way to get it accurate? I've herd that timing guns will only get it close but not perfect. Any input or help to my problem would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
#3
Originally Posted by Yoda
the rockers are adjustable. When you have the valve cover off, you can look at the timing chain guides to make sure they are ok.
#5
What's the noise sound like? Is it loud, is it a solid knock or just an RPM related ticking cause...
Well, part of that is just the 22RE, there's a distinck tick to these motors...
Then you have your rocker Arm Noise, that can sound like a stuck valve and ticks a bit more, usualy cause it's loose. You'll hear this in the top end obviously, and it's a bit more substantial than the general mechanical noise the motor makes regularly.
Then there's the failing Crank Bering which you usualy hear at start-up, but goes away pretty fast, alot morte clunky and deffinately out of the bottom end of the motor.
And then you have your Timing chain noise which will just get louder till you replace the chain... I can make the motor sound kinda like a diesel... which is cool, but it's not a diesel so that's not cool
cheers
Dave
Well, part of that is just the 22RE, there's a distinck tick to these motors...
Then you have your rocker Arm Noise, that can sound like a stuck valve and ticks a bit more, usualy cause it's loose. You'll hear this in the top end obviously, and it's a bit more substantial than the general mechanical noise the motor makes regularly.
Then there's the failing Crank Bering which you usualy hear at start-up, but goes away pretty fast, alot morte clunky and deffinately out of the bottom end of the motor.
And then you have your Timing chain noise which will just get louder till you replace the chain... I can make the motor sound kinda like a diesel... which is cool, but it's not a diesel so that's not cool
cheers
Dave
#6
Originally Posted by Diesel_Freak
What's the noise sound like? Is it loud, is it a solid knock or just an RPM related ticking cause...
Well, part of that is just the 22RE, there's a distinck tick to these motors...
Then you have your rocker Arm Noise, that can sound like a stuck valve and ticks a bit more, usualy cause it's loose. You'll hear this in the top end obviously, and it's a bit more substantial than the general mechanical noise the motor makes regularly.
Then there's the failing Crank Bering which you usualy hear at start-up, but goes away pretty fast, alot morte clunky and deffinately out of the bottom end of the motor.
And then you have your Timing chain noise which will just get louder till you replace the chain... I can make the motor sound kinda like a diesel... which is cool, but it's not a diesel so that's not cool
cheers
Dave
Well, part of that is just the 22RE, there's a distinck tick to these motors...
Then you have your rocker Arm Noise, that can sound like a stuck valve and ticks a bit more, usualy cause it's loose. You'll hear this in the top end obviously, and it's a bit more substantial than the general mechanical noise the motor makes regularly.
Then there's the failing Crank Bering which you usualy hear at start-up, but goes away pretty fast, alot morte clunky and deffinately out of the bottom end of the motor.
And then you have your Timing chain noise which will just get louder till you replace the chain... I can make the motor sound kinda like a diesel... which is cool, but it's not a diesel so that's not cool
cheers
Dave
#7
I had an adjuster on one of my rockers that wouldn't stay tight. So after I'd adjust the valves, the first time I'd rev the motor high like a downshift to pass, the lock nut would loosen and the valve would go loose and clack loud again. Also good to know when the valet would drive the sh@t out of my truck.
Pop the valve cover, it should take like 5 minutes. Just undo the triangle bracket in the middle, should be 3 bolts, and flip over the intake. Then undo the 4 nuts that hold down the cover, there will be some half metal half rubber washers just under the nuts...if they are seeping oil you'll want to get new ones. Then jiggle the valve cover up and forward and it'll come out.
Valves are .008" intake and .012" exhaust. Get the bent blade feeler gauges, they are way easier to wedge in there. Also with the cover off you can look down the hole where the timing chain goes and see if there's slop and see if it's wearing into the guides or whatever else might be going on.
Pop the valve cover, it should take like 5 minutes. Just undo the triangle bracket in the middle, should be 3 bolts, and flip over the intake. Then undo the 4 nuts that hold down the cover, there will be some half metal half rubber washers just under the nuts...if they are seeping oil you'll want to get new ones. Then jiggle the valve cover up and forward and it'll come out.
Valves are .008" intake and .012" exhaust. Get the bent blade feeler gauges, they are way easier to wedge in there. Also with the cover off you can look down the hole where the timing chain goes and see if there's slop and see if it's wearing into the guides or whatever else might be going on.
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#8
Originally Posted by fierohink
I had an adjuster on one of my rockers that wouldn't stay tight. So after I'd adjust the valves, the first time I'd rev the motor high like a downshift to pass, the lock nut would loosen and the valve would go loose and clack loud again. Also good to know when the valet would drive the sh@t out of my truck.
Pop the valve cover, it should take like 5 minutes. Just undo the triangle bracket in the middle, should be 3 bolts, and flip over the intake. Then undo the 4 nuts that hold down the cover, there will be some half metal half rubber washers just under the nuts...if they are seeping oil you'll want to get new ones. Then jiggle the valve cover up and forward and it'll come out.
Valves are .008" intake and .012" exhaust. Get the bent blade feeler gauges, they are way easier to wedge in there. Also with the cover off you can look down the hole where the timing chain goes and see if there's slop and see if it's wearing into the guides or whatever else might be going on.
Pop the valve cover, it should take like 5 minutes. Just undo the triangle bracket in the middle, should be 3 bolts, and flip over the intake. Then undo the 4 nuts that hold down the cover, there will be some half metal half rubber washers just under the nuts...if they are seeping oil you'll want to get new ones. Then jiggle the valve cover up and forward and it'll come out.
Valves are .008" intake and .012" exhaust. Get the bent blade feeler gauges, they are way easier to wedge in there. Also with the cover off you can look down the hole where the timing chain goes and see if there's slop and see if it's wearing into the guides or whatever else might be going on.
Thanks for the tips and for the help. It is much appreciated.
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