Thanks to Jay, I cleaned my MAF sensor. MY GOD! I guess my truck was running worse than I thought. I am not exagerating when I say it feels like I added another SC.

I had had a problem with surging (or what I would term a "powerband effect") for the longest time. And most recently, my check engine light came on which was triggered by a "bank one lean" code.

All of that is gone and my truck is now faster than I ever remember!

If anyone needs explanation, ask and I'll explain, but it's very easy.

Thanks Jay!

Mike

 

*Blushes*

 

what did you do?

 

I wouldn't mind, I'll try anything to get some more power . But mine's a '95 N/A so I dunno, but I still wouldn't mind cleaning it.
-Bryan

 

Ok, first off, remember that unless it's dirty, this probably won't make any difference.

I took the air box out (made it easier to get to the MAF). Three bolts, loosen the screw holding the intake tube, and take off the other small hose (leads to the canister or something?) and you're there.

Unplug the MAF, remove two screws and the MAF assy pulls out.

NOTE: I noticed on my that sand/dirt was leaking in around the o'ring. I used some o-ring lube to help this seal when I put it back in.

Take a look at the electrical component that has two flat metal posts and a ball of resin on top of it. If it's like mine, it will look like a black, dusty, carbon covered mess.

Take it into the kitchen (tell you wife you think they are having a sale at Macy's, so she'll be out of the house and won't see you cleaning car parts in the sink).

Carefully wash off the assembly with warm soapy water. I don't know if it matters, but I tried not to get any water on the plug. I also used a detailing brush and gently brushed off the dirt.

I also tried to clean the two smaller electronic components down inside one of the channels, but I don't think it would have mattered either way.

When it's clean, it'll look like a brownish/ orange resin supported by two silver flat metal bars.

Rinse and let dry completely and reinstall.

Tadaahhhhh!

Hope this comes in handy for someone!

Mike

 

Good work mate....

:clap:

Jay

 

pics would be great!! =)

 

I'm wondering if I'm missing something here. I had the intake apart this weekend to clean the TB, and was going to clean the MAF as well. Took the airbox out, disconnected everything, removed the 2 screws holding the MAF in, and removed it.

This is where the confusion sets in... I didn't have anything resembling what I've read as far as descriptions of the MAF go. From what I can remember, one end of the assy. had 2 pieces of plastic that was crossed, with a dome in the center. This seemed all sealed up. The other end that faces the air filter had a small opening, and if I looked close, I could see 2 thin wires inside there. I wasn't sure if that MAF housing came apart - it looked like it might, but I sure wasn't up for forcing it only to end up ruining the sensor.

Do you need to open up that housing to fully access the sensor? I wish I would have taken a pic or 2 this weekend, it sure would have been easier to describe.

Thanks-
Tom

 

The 96-98 Trucks have a different MAF assembly than the 99-02 Trucks. I will try to get some pics and exploded drawings posted of the different versions sometime in the next few days.

Maybe someone will beat me to it in the meantime.

Dr. Z

 

Thanks Dr. Z, a big help as always!

Have a on me

Tom

 

Todays MAF. (Cut-away view)



:bounce2:

 

so how do we actually go about cleaning the MAF in a 96-98? are we wiping the part that jay put a pic up of?

 

Clin..

Yeah, just clean everything off. The accumulation of dust, dirt, air filter oil, etc affects it's ability to sense air temp and adjust to it.

Good luck.

Mike

 

i have a write-up on the bottom of this page

 

Phil: Yes. It would be a perfect addition to our Tech Section.

All: Now I know why my '91 is running so much better. A friend of mine sells to Dealers the equipment to clean your fuel/air system. Part of the process requires the addition of a fuel additive to the gas tank, but the other part of the process requires the metering into the air-intake a solvent. My friend tested his equipment on my Runner before delivering it to the Lexus dealership just to make sure it worked.....he does this on all of his friends' vehicles before equipment delivery...this time my Runner was the test mule. When we injected the solvent, into the intake, what came out of the exhaust looked like I was the local mosquito fogger truck......much grey-black smoke.....pity the West-Nile-carrying bastards around that neighborhood!! Well, after that cloud, my Runner hasn't run this good since new!! I wondered what this solvent injected into the air-intake fixed and now it all makes perfect sense. I guess I reached the end result from a different tact......no soap, kitchen sink, or lies to the wife (I'm lucky....I don't even have a wife).....but I now have a clean MAF sensor and thus more HP and that's what counts! Thanks Jay and All!

*everyone blushes*

David

 

Ryan,

Thanks for the link! I was just about to post on how best to clean your TB. I checked mine last night an OMG, it's a sticky gooey mess around the edges. I could also see stuff lining the walls of the main intake (looking through the TB).

Any way to clean this? Can you spray this stuff in your engine while it's running? i.e. cleans as it passes through?

Thanks!

Mike

 

Remember, when cleaning it you don't want to use anything that will leave a residue on that wire. Any electronics spray cleaner will also do the trick.

 

What are some signs that the MAF sensor and/or throttle body are dirty?

Matt

 

poor MPG, acceleration, throttle response, no power... i think u get the point

 

Yeah I really like the idea of adding that to our tech section along with some pictures, that would be really nice. Do. Z idf you get around to that be sure to find a guine pig for the 96-98 rigs as well(I know you will be sure to do that but it just makes my statement sound more complete), thanks Doc., Jay, and whoever else.