Choosing an alternator
10-09-2003, 10:35 PM
#23
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Originally posted by Churnd
[list=1][*]How much does each model cost?[*]Which models are remanufactured NipponDenso units and which aren't? I don't want the ones that are.[*]How much power does each put out at idle?[/list=1]
[list=1][*]How much does each model cost?[*]Which models are remanufactured NipponDenso units and which aren't? I don't want the ones that are.[*]How much power does each put out at idle?[/list=1]
They have one listed as a direct drop in for the 3.4
N02620 110 AMP $349.95 + Core | Rewound, standard case.
And two listed as requiring minor modification to fit
N02630 130 AMP $428.95 No Core | New
N02640 160 AMP $479.95 No Core | New
I have to 160 AMP model and found it required no modification to fit into my truck, beyond a wiring adapter (included) and an additional wire from the output post, directly to the battery.
Mine is slightly larger than a stock alternator, but I had no fit issues. Mine puts out 110A at idle and is rated at 160A warm, somewhat more cold.
Anyway, I hope that answers most of your questions. I don't have the figure for idle output on the other two, but when I bough mine it sounded like both had a similar ratio to the one I bought. Mine immediately cured my lights dimming at idle problem and also charges up my yellow top in record time when I run it way down.
10-10-2003, 06:49 AM
#24
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Would it be any different for a 3.0?
I just wonder what "minor modifications" mean.
Right now, I'm leaning more towards the PowerMaster. For $20 more, I can get 15 more amps both ways and don't have to worry about dealing with NWOR. Plus it's a direct bolt on with no modifications.
Rob, thanks a lot for the help. I'm in your debt.
I just wonder what "minor modifications" mean.
Right now, I'm leaning more towards the PowerMaster. For $20 more, I can get 15 more amps both ways and don't have to worry about dealing with NWOR. Plus it's a direct bolt on with no modifications.
Rob, thanks a lot for the help. I'm in your debt.
10-10-2003, 06:57 AM
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Originally posted by Churnd
Hey man... been a while since you've posted here, huh? I definitely appreciate you calling for me.
Could you elaborate a little more on exactly how you modified the bushing? Did you have to trim it or what?
Hey man... been a while since you've posted here, huh? I definitely appreciate you calling for me.
Could you elaborate a little more on exactly how you modified the bushing? Did you have to trim it or what?
All I had to do to was file down the inside of the bushing some for. This is the bushing in the alt bracket that the long mounting bolt slides through at the top of the alternator and allows the alt to swing. It didn't take much for the clearence I needed.
The shop, where I purchased the alt from, got busy yesterday and was not able to get the information I asked for. I called this morning to ask again and they said they should be able to get the info for me today.
This alt has performed very well as I have added an electric fan, auxillary lights, and a power thristy audio system.
I'll post the info as soon as I have it.
10-10-2003, 07:07 AM
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Originally posted by Churnd
Would it be any different for a 3.0?
I just wonder what "minor modifications" mean.
Right now, I'm leaning more towards the PowerMaster. For $20 more, I can get 15 more amps both ways and don't have to worry about dealing with NWOR. Plus it's a direct bolt on with no modifications.
Rob, thanks a lot for the help. I'm in your debt.
Would it be any different for a 3.0?
I just wonder what "minor modifications" mean.
Right now, I'm leaning more towards the PowerMaster. For $20 more, I can get 15 more amps both ways and don't have to worry about dealing with NWOR. Plus it's a direct bolt on with no modifications.
Rob, thanks a lot for the help. I'm in your debt.
My understanding is that the minor modification involves having to Dremmel out the adjustment bracket on the truck a bit. But it might be different for the 3.slow.
Nah, no debt. That's what we are all here for
10-11-2003, 05:31 PM
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I just put in a 91 MR2 alternator and it works perfectly. No more dimming lights when rolling up the windows! Pretty easy install. Pretty cheap as well. Got everything for about $60! Not bad for a cheap mod.
10-13-2003, 05:19 PM
#28
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Well, turns out that the PowerMaster isn't bolt up after all. "Modifications to the adjustment bracket and Internal Regulator plug are necessary.", as the email said that I got from PowerMaster themselves. TruckPerformance.com clearly states that it's entirely a bolt up deal. 
I guess that marks that option out. $500 is too much to spend for something that I'd have to make modifications for. I think I'm going to go with the 90 amp alt that LandYacht discovered. The MR2 alt does look nice, but I don't have the time to find someone to modify the adjustment bracket like that. Plus I'm definitely not cutting the plug off to switch the wires to the MR2 plug, in case I ever need to sell the truck.
I guess that marks that option out. $500 is too much to spend for something that I'd have to make modifications for. I think I'm going to go with the 90 amp alt that LandYacht discovered. The MR2 alt does look nice, but I don't have the time to find someone to modify the adjustment bracket like that. Plus I'm definitely not cutting the plug off to switch the wires to the MR2 plug, in case I ever need to sell the truck.
10-14-2003, 01:54 PM
#29
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Yet another update...
I tracked down what I think was a 90 amp alt like the one I've been looking for. Everything looked fine except for the plug. It was round shaped and looked much like the one on the MR2 alternator from the previous thread.
LandYacht, if you read this, can you verify the shape of the plug? The one on my truck is very oval shaped.
I tracked down what I think was a 90 amp alt like the one I've been looking for. Everything looked fine except for the plug. It was round shaped and looked much like the one on the MR2 alternator from the previous thread.
LandYacht, if you read this, can you verify the shape of the plug? The one on my truck is very oval shaped.
10-14-2003, 02:00 PM
#30
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Just and FYI, you know there are like six different plugs, right? There are also adapters that change the plug config on your truck to match the alternator. If you want to change it back, simply unlpug the pigtail
My 160 has a round plug on it, but when I got it, I purchased an adapter that was round on one end and the mate for my stock, oval, electrical system on the other end.
If everything else is kosher, don't let the plug stop you
My 160 has a round plug on it, but when I got it, I purchased an adapter that was round on one end and the mate for my stock, oval, electrical system on the other end.
If everything else is kosher, don't let the plug stop you
10-15-2003, 05:14 AM
#31
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Originally posted by WATRD
Just and FYI, you know there are like six different plugs, right? There are also adapters that change the plug config on your truck to match the alternator. If you want to change it back, simply unlpug the pigtail
My 160 has a round plug on it, but when I got it, I purchased an adapter that was round on one end and the mate for my stock, oval, electrical system on the other end.
If everything else is kosher, don't let the plug stop you
Just and FYI, you know there are like six different plugs, right? There are also adapters that change the plug config on your truck to match the alternator. If you want to change it back, simply unlpug the pigtail
My 160 has a round plug on it, but when I got it, I purchased an adapter that was round on one end and the mate for my stock, oval, electrical system on the other end.
If everything else is kosher, don't let the plug stop you
10-15-2003, 08:19 AM
#32
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According the to the new NWOR catalog, there are four standard plugs. They have drawings of each of them for comparison.
I would assume that a well stocked auto supply store could sell them to you. Mine alternator came with the adaptor when I ordered it. I told them what plug the truck had and they knew what plug the alternator had and in with my order was a six inch pigtail.
The other thing you need to watch is the pulley. There's a couple of different types.
I would assume that a well stocked auto supply store could sell them to you. Mine alternator came with the adaptor when I ordered it. I told them what plug the truck had and they knew what plug the alternator had and in with my order was a six inch pigtail.
The other thing you need to watch is the pulley. There's a couple of different types.
10-16-2003, 07:24 AM
#33
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Well, I learned of yet another company... Alterstart. I know they rebuild the alternators to put out more power which is what I wanted to stay away from in the first place. But after extensive research, I found that unless I was willing to put up with a re-wound alternator, I'm going to have to make a few modifications (get a longer belt, lengthen bracket, etc.)... and I don't want to do that.
So I emailed alterstart to see what they'd say. They're responding pretty quickly. They can provide me with a 155 amp and 135 amp, both rated to put out 55 amps at idle. Now, that's more than stock but not as high as I was hoping. But it's better than what I have now. Both are pretty cheap at $235.99 for the 130 and $255 for the 155.
Both are offered with a lifetime warranty, which is awesome. If they can guarantee the idle output for me, I'm going with them.
So I emailed alterstart to see what they'd say. They're responding pretty quickly. They can provide me with a 155 amp and 135 amp, both rated to put out 55 amps at idle. Now, that's more than stock but not as high as I was hoping. But it's better than what I have now. Both are pretty cheap at $235.99 for the 130 and $255 for the 155.
Both are offered with a lifetime warranty, which is awesome. If they can guarantee the idle output for me, I'm going with them.
10-16-2003, 11:52 AM
#34
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Ok hold the the presses.
I was driving around today and drove by a different auto electric shop that I hadn't seen before. I thought, "what the hell" and stopped by. I asked the guy to test my alternator (the 140 amp alternator from Mr. Alternator). He had much more sophisticated digital equipment than the previous shop I went to. Turns out I've been worrying for no good reason.
The test came out with ~120 amps at high RPM and ~72 amps at idle. I've been stressing out this whole time for nothing at all.
He also commented that he was surprised at how my little alternator was able to actually work that well, being as hot as it was outside. I learned that heat affects the way an alternator charges. Basically, the hotter it is, the harder it is for the alt to charge. Since I live in MS, it's pretty hot year round. He said that if I lived somewhere cooler, I'd probably be seeing the true 140 amps the alternator might be capable of putting out. Go figure.
So, I take back every bad thing I said about Tom at Mr. Alternator. His stuff works fine.
The guy at the shop also told me that if I was interested, he'd work with me on swapping a GM Delco 190 amp alternator later on. Since the Delcos come in bigger casings, they are much more efficient at putting out more power. That's something I'll keep in mind.
I was driving around today and drove by a different auto electric shop that I hadn't seen before. I thought, "what the hell" and stopped by. I asked the guy to test my alternator (the 140 amp alternator from Mr. Alternator). He had much more sophisticated digital equipment than the previous shop I went to. Turns out I've been worrying for no good reason.
The test came out with ~120 amps at high RPM and ~72 amps at idle. I've been stressing out this whole time for nothing at all.
He also commented that he was surprised at how my little alternator was able to actually work that well, being as hot as it was outside. I learned that heat affects the way an alternator charges. Basically, the hotter it is, the harder it is for the alt to charge. Since I live in MS, it's pretty hot year round. He said that if I lived somewhere cooler, I'd probably be seeing the true 140 amps the alternator might be capable of putting out. Go figure.
So, I take back every bad thing I said about Tom at Mr. Alternator. His stuff works fine.
The guy at the shop also told me that if I was interested, he'd work with me on swapping a GM Delco 190 amp alternator later on. Since the Delcos come in bigger casings, they are much more efficient at putting out more power. That's something I'll keep in mind.
Last edited by Churnd; 10-16-2003 at 11:53 AM.
10-16-2003, 04:33 PM
#36
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Originally posted by Churnd
So, I take back every bad thing I said about Tom at Mr. Alternator. His stuff works fine.
The guy at the shop also told me that if I was interested, he'd work with me on swapping a GM Delco 190 amp alternator later on. Since the Delcos come in bigger casings, they are much more efficient at putting out more power. That's something I'll keep in mind.
So, I take back every bad thing I said about Tom at Mr. Alternator. His stuff works fine.
The guy at the shop also told me that if I was interested, he'd work with me on swapping a GM Delco 190 amp alternator later on. Since the Delcos come in bigger casings, they are much more efficient at putting out more power. That's something I'll keep in mind.
Regarding those large GM case alts - on our 3.0 it will be a tight swap. I fabbed up some brackets and had one of those on my 87 Celica GTS. It was relatively easy since it was on top of the engine. Not sure if they're all externally regulated, but mine was - the box is small though.
10-16-2003, 05:39 PM
#37
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Actually, about the GM swap... it's not really as hard as I originally thought it was. For some reason today, I re-read the Premier Power Welder alternator install over at 4x4wire again for the thousandth time, and it finally made sense to me. Basically, there's 4 steps:
[list=1][*]Grind the bottom of the front lip (closest to the front of the truck) of the top mounting bracket down a little so the external fan on the alternator won't hit it.[*]Grind down the lower part of the bracket so the back of the alternator housing won't hit it, so you can wedge it into the top mounting bracket.[*]Bend the oil dipstick towards the rear firewall a little.[*]Get a 2" extension welded onto the stock adjustment bracket. If you get it offset like in the picture over at 4x4Wire, you don't need to grind it down to clear the external alternator fan.[/list=1]
From what I read, you don't even need another belt. I'm not completely sure about that though because you're extending the adjustment bracket 2 inches. Also, if you find another stock adjusting bracket, you can go back to the regular alternator at any time.
[list=1][*]Grind the bottom of the front lip (closest to the front of the truck) of the top mounting bracket down a little so the external fan on the alternator won't hit it.[*]Grind down the lower part of the bracket so the back of the alternator housing won't hit it, so you can wedge it into the top mounting bracket.[*]Bend the oil dipstick towards the rear firewall a little.[*]Get a 2" extension welded onto the stock adjustment bracket. If you get it offset like in the picture over at 4x4Wire, you don't need to grind it down to clear the external alternator fan.[/list=1]
From what I read, you don't even need another belt. I'm not completely sure about that though because you're extending the adjustment bracket 2 inches. Also, if you find another stock adjusting bracket, you can go back to the regular alternator at any time.
Last edited by Churnd; 10-16-2003 at 05:41 PM.
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