Check engine light
10-12-2016, 11:08 AM
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Check engine light
I have a 99 Toyota 4Runner 2.7 liter and the check engine is on I have it checked out and it reads insufficient air flow so I change the EGR valve which was recommended and the one next to the EGR valve as well after resetting the check engine light after a few days it turns back on in it reads the samw code i check all vaccumm hoses everything is fine and connected right what can it be please help the car runs fine the only thing I noticed it waste a little bit more gas than usual any input would be highly appreciated thank you
10-12-2016, 11:23 AM
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10-12-2016, 12:55 PM
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Just what code are you getting ??
Remember it can be that whole sensor circuit .
I see now you should be getting a PO401
What ever you changed did not fix the problen
Any rubbed or broken wires
Had you found your EGR valve defective or just changed it
The EGR temp sensor is that what you replaced ??
For what ever reason the EGR valve seems not to be opening when it should
One of those things each part of the EGR systems needs to be tested
Might even be The ECM causing the problem
This is why the FSM is nice
Corroded connections
Remember it can be that whole sensor circuit .
I see now you should be getting a PO401
What ever you changed did not fix the problen
Any rubbed or broken wires
Had you found your EGR valve defective or just changed it
The EGR temp sensor is that what you replaced ??
For what ever reason the EGR valve seems not to be opening when it should
One of those things each part of the EGR systems needs to be tested
Might even be The ECM causing the problem
This is why the FSM is nice
Corroded connections
Last edited by wyoming9; 10-12-2016 at 01:11 PM.
10-12-2016, 01:05 PM
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10-12-2016, 01:06 PM
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10-12-2016, 01:14 PM
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Hmm... as wyoming9 said it could be sensor related. I have two O2 sensors on my exhaust, if one doesn't read right it can effect your engine performance and how well it runs. Maybe inspect those for any wear or damage?
10-12-2016, 01:16 PM
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Just what code are you getting ??
Remember it can be that whole sensor circuit .
I see now you should be getting a PO401
What ever you changed did not fix the problen
Any rubbed or broken wires
Had you found your EGR valve defective or just changed it
The EGR temp sensor is that what you replaced ??
For what ever reason the EGR valve seems not to be opening when it should
One of those things each part of the EGR systems needs to be tested
Might even be The ECM causing the problem
This is why the FSM is nice
Corroded connections
Remember it can be that whole sensor circuit .
I see now you should be getting a PO401
What ever you changed did not fix the problen
Any rubbed or broken wires
Had you found your EGR valve defective or just changed it
The EGR temp sensor is that what you replaced ??
For what ever reason the EGR valve seems not to be opening when it should
One of those things each part of the EGR systems needs to be tested
Might even be The ECM causing the problem
This is why the FSM is nice
Corroded connections
10-12-2016, 01:22 PM
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My only other suggestions would be to run some cleaner like startron or seafoam and see if that helps. Could be a result of carbon buildup.
Is the MAF plugged in tightly?
Also, double check on the O2 sensors. If anything screws with them wether it be wear and tear or removing the cat, it will send signals to the ECU that can do anything from reducing efficiency to sending it into a total limp mode.
Is the MAF plugged in tightly?
Also, double check on the O2 sensors. If anything screws with them wether it be wear and tear or removing the cat, it will send signals to the ECU that can do anything from reducing efficiency to sending it into a total limp mode.
10-12-2016, 01:49 PM
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My only other suggestions would be to run some cleaner like startron or seafoam and see if that helps. Could be a result of carbon buildup.
Is the MAF plugged in tightly?
Also, double check on the O2 sensors. If anything screws with them wether it be wear and tear or removing the cat, it will send signals to the ECU that can do anything from reducing efficiency to sending it into a total limp mode.
Is the MAF plugged in tightly?
Also, double check on the O2 sensors. If anything screws with them wether it be wear and tear or removing the cat, it will send signals to the ECU that can do anything from reducing efficiency to sending it into a total limp mode.
10-12-2016, 01:59 PM
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I used the sefoam I use the method removing the pcv hose and let suck in I tought it worked but a few days later the light came back on do you think it would work better if I use seafoam this time from the hose that connects to the brake booster to the intake? Maf all secured and I don't see any wear n tear on O2 sensors I wish I can find a Toyo tech on the side here in Florida looks like imna have to bring it to another mechanic
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